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Updated Aug 28, 2024 |
This page is a Diary of the Latest Happenings on the railway
The most recent changes are at the top. Plenty of pictures down the page!
click here diaries before 2013
Supposedly the connection to the rest of the S&TR
the first bit of scenery. I am using pine bark to create the layered rocks...
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ****************** click here for the video *********
So just to reinterate, there are lower and upper stations, separated 10" vertically, and joined by about 15' of very steep and sharp curved line.
I have finished the baseboard construction and laid the track using mainly 'toy train' plastic track. The circular, rotating turnouts work OK and I have about 6 small locos that can negotiate the nominal 12" diameter curve. At one section the inner rail is only 8.5" radius! And the steepest grade is 1:11 on a 15" radius !
In memory pf Pauline I have decided to call the indoor line the "Claymine" branch of the S&TR. The two stations will be Claymine (upper level), where clay is loaded onto wagons, and Pottsville (lower level) where the there will be a large pottery factory to use the clay. Short station platforms will allow a passenger service.
Now for scenery !
and with tracks reinstalled
****************** click here for the video *********
and all gone...
There is still 100m of mainline to run on. So now the yard looks like this...
****************** click here for the video *********
So I am thinking of a two level layout, end-to-end line which will have a 'station' on each level linked by a line about 5m long. In keeping with the 'history' of the shed as a pottery studio, the railway will connect a clay mine with a pottery factory to provide the traffic on the line as well as some general goods and a small railmotor for passengers.
The layout plan (in progress) looks like this...
To achieve this I needed to
1. use small trains no more than 60cm long with small locos 8cm long (which I have on the garden line)
2. 'invent' a 'circular' turnout to save the space of multiple turnouts,
3. be able to negotiate a 30cm radius ( ie 12 inch) semi-circular curve on a 1:16 grade,
4. climb a 1:12 grade on a 60cm radius curve
For 2, the circular turnout is 8cm in diameter and will allow up to 8 tracks to be accessed. Looks like this
****************** see this video for a better explanation
for 3 and 4, I made up a semi-circle of 30cm radius (outside rail) with aluminium rail and used my existing #18 loco ("Ugly") and 3 coal hoppers with 100mm wheelbases. I increased the rail gauge to 46.5mm. And it worked! (wagons with longer wheelbases won't go around the curve!)
****************** see this video to see the tests
Front view. Six, AA rechargeable batteries are inside the curved front.
Electronics in long hood include speaker, radio control receiver, motor control and sound.
****************** click here for a video *********
this one is meant to be a 'documentary' on how a helicopter (not a drone!) was used.
The steering is via a servo driving the chains.
I could not fit in a speaker to provide sound and anyhow, the gearbox noise would probably overwhelm any sound. As there is no sound, I fitted a hurricane lamp to remind me that it is turned on.
I was hoping to make it 'programmable' so that it could 'wander' down Lilyvale's street under it's own control, but it didn't work. I did manage to program it to make a 3-point turn on its own! click here to see it do its stuff.
I used infrared detectors (IR) type TSOP4136, operating at 36kHz to detect the trains at either end of the single line - these are what are used in TV remotes. They require an IR LED transmitter (Tx) run at 36 kHz and this is provided by a Picaxe 08M2 at each end. Using 36KHz modulation makes them much less susceptible to sunlight although they still can't handle direct sun on the Rx. The transmitter LED is mounted on one side of the track and the receiver on the other. When a train is present, the beam is broken and the Rx output signal goes to +5V.
To detect the direction a train is travelling, I use two IR detectors spaced about 100mm apart, at each end. The order in which each detector detects, shows the train direction. The 100mm is determined to be less than my shortest loco.
This is the basic arrangement I use. It�s meant to slide under existing track between the sleepers. I housed the Rx electronics (picaxe etc.) in a styrene sig hut and the IR beam angles upwards so the Rx never 'sees' the sun.
So this is the arrangement I�ve come up with. The IR transmitting diodes are on the left and the receivers are inside the signal hut, with the rest of the electronics. The signal head is on the wall � they are meant to be visible to operators � not scale train drivers!
And this is the electronics board at the Melaleuca end.
The same picaxes are used to do this detection and to 'count' the trains in and out of the single line. This number of trains is sent to the other end on a 2-wire link as 4 different dc voltages, stored on a 100uF capacitor. A maximum of 3 trains can safely occupy the single line, if they are following one another.
I used 10mm dia red and green leds mounted in a styrene signal head on the house wall. The green led is high intensity, (9000 mcd) has 3.0V @ 20mA and the red one, 2.3V. I ground the round head off the leds to make them flat.
Click here for a video of its operation
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This is the detailed description of the mode of operation.
It is written for trains going from A to B, but all of this applies equally for trains in the opposite direction.
Take a single line between A and B. There are signals at A and B controlling entry to the single line.
Up to 3 trains are be able to follow one another through the section � ie like a 'divisible staff'. (why did I choose 3? - I really only want to allow 2 trains to run through, but I want a 3rd to be able to shunt onto the section and out again at the same end, and for the signals to still work.)
Signals can be either 2-colour light ( red and green where caution is red+green both on) or 3-position semaphore driven by a servo.Trains passing a Stop signal cause an audible alarm.
a) When a train enters the single line at A, the signal at A shows Stop for say 15 seconds, then shows Caution as an indication that a 2nd train is now allowed to follow. It also sends a 'message' to B indicating 'one train in section' which causes the signal at B to show Stop.
b) if the train continues through the section, when it leaves at B, the B signal clears and sends a message to A indication 'no train in section', and that clears the A signal.
c) If a second train follows the first into the section at A, the signal at A again shows Stop for 15s and then Caution. (still allowing for a 3rd train to follow later) but a message is sent to B indicating there are 'two trains in the section'. When the first train reaches B, no signals change, but the message to A indicates only 'one train in section'. When that second train arrives at B, its signal clears and the message to A saying 'no trains' causes A to set its signal clear.
d) if a 3rd train has followed the first two at A, the signal at A shows Stop to indicate no more trains can follow. The message to B indicates 'three (or more) trains in section'.
Actually any number of trains can illegally follow and will be counted in at A and out at B, but the message to B only indicates �3 trains in section�. As the trains arrive at B, the messages 'count down' 3 arriving trains and then clears its signal and sends a �no trains� message to A. This obviously wrong, but should never have got to this point anyhow! The signal at A reverts to Caution when only 1 or 2 trains are left in the section, and clears when there are no more trains in section. check this
e) whenever a trains passes a stop signal, an alarm sounds at that signal only. (this needs external circuitry as the picaxe has no spare pins) This occurs for either:
* entering from the wrong end onto an occupied section, or
* a 4th or more following/shunting train entering from one end, or
* a following/shunting train entering the section from one end, while the 15s timer is active (see a).
f) if a trains shunts onto the unoccupied single line at A, the signal will go to stop for 15 sec and then to Caution, and a �1 train in section� message to B end causes that signal to go to stop also. Then provided that the shunting train cleared the detector, when it 'arrives' back at A again, the A signal clears and the message to B indicates 'no train', so B signal clears.
g) If a shunting train follows another into section at A, but then reverses back out to A (ie shunting onto the section- this is allowed by the Caution signal), the signal goes to Stop for 15sec then back to Caution. The message to B says �2 trains in section�. Then provided that the shunting train cleared the detector, when it 'arrives' back at A again, the message to B indicates ' 1 train'. Signal A stays at Caution and signal B at stop.
h) This also happens if the train is a 3rd train doing the shunting � it sets the signal to red and sends �3 trains� message to B. When it shunts back out of the section at A, it is correctly counted out, but the message �2 trains� is sent to B, and the signal at A goes to Caution. The signals will clear when both the trains in section reach B.
i) If there are already 3 trains in the section, and a 4th train illegally shunts onto the section against the stop signal, an alarm sounds. When it shunts out, it confuses the signals as the message can only say �3 trains in section�. So when 2 of the 3 �legal� trains in the section reach B, its signal clears and a �no trains� message goes to A and its signal clears, EVEN THOUGH THERE IS STILL A TRAIN IN THE SECTION!
j) If a train is in the section as in a) and b) above, and a train illegally enters the section from B against the stop signal, the message will be sent to A indicating '2 trains in section' (check), but no signals will change. An audible alarm sounds at B. If the train then backs out of the section at B, the message to A will indicate 'one train' and all will work correctly. The signal at B will clear when the through train from A arrives. (Again this depends on the train at B actually clearing the detector when entering the section, so that when it shunts back out, the detector can detect it.)
Here's a video I made illustrating what I want to achieve...... click here
I started off experiments with an ultrasonice device that measures distance using 40kHz sound waves. But finally gave up as it could not detect the small 'frontal area' of small wagons.
Then I tried using infrared beams REFLECTED from the sides of trains, hoping that I could keep all the electronics on one side of the track.
It proved a bit unreliable with small, low wagons, so I have finally gone back to the method I have preciously used for train detection - putting the IR beam across the track and letting the train break the beam. I have used this method before to control turnouts, but it was always a bit hard to make sure the sunlight didn't interfere. Now I have used small devices that can detect the infrared beam modulated at 36 kHz, so much more tolerant of sunlight.
Testing continues, but I think I have the picaxe programs working and it just needs building the circuits and testing.
the finished job..
It will now just be a long siding from Sandstone, possibly with some industry like a log loader.
video of closing the line and a video of a logging day using Blackwall
Here's the new plastic sleepered track.
But now after $4000 spent eradicating them, I have been able to repair the wall. Now I can get back to playing trains.
When I pulled it apart, it looked like this..
So I used the similar method I used on the extension back in August 2015, of gluing paddle pop sticks to Corroflute.
This will keep the concrete of the platform away from the timber and hopefully will last better.
I screwed aluminium angle behind this into the vertical supports - back view
front view before installation.
Then the aluminium is screwed to the baseboard. The platform edge planks were nailed and glued to the vert supports.
and backfilled with concrete
The darker wood in this picture is the section built 2 years ago.
Here's the whole station
Now did I leave enough clearance????
more to follow...
In addition, I have found termites in the timber supports.
And I have too much maintenance to do on the rest of the line. (repair platforms at both Melaleuca and Ti-tree, repair broken baseboard at Ti-tree, repair crib fencing at Maple Jn, replace lifting bridge across train room door, and biggest of all, repair termite damage in train room!)
So a decision has been taken - it will definitely not be repaired.
The last trains ran through Blackwall on 7th January 2017.
Now I'll have two 'good' (4' rad) turnouts to use elsewhere and lots of brass rail spare. And two, 2m long steel arch bridges.
As a result, Ti-tree becomes a terminus, so I'll try and fit in a turntable.
Prototype water cranes came in different pipe sizes depending on how much water had to be delivered quickly.
So I decided to use both the 12mm and 18mm pipe sizes. I came up with 3 arrangements as shown here:
I've still got to get my wife to sew some more trunks - I did these with superglue.
This is the new track at the north end. There is still one swivelling turnout. The siding on the right will be the wheat silo siding.
This is the view from the south, comparing old (left) and new (right)
The old and new plans
The smokebox is from a Bachmann Big Hauler, with on/off switch behind the door.
The battery charger leads clip onto the chains on the buffer beam
I used Hobbyking Rx and ESC, but used a picaxe for the direction control via a relay and the sound.
Using a relay for direction, means I can program it to change direction only when stopped - useful for small grandsons!
The eight, 2400 mAh, NiMH batteries are under the circuit board.
There's also a Directors Cut version with different scenes
At the end of this one you can see Geof's whole train blown off the tracks. It was time to pack up then.
I had the whole track open - probably for one of the last times. There are many rotten support posts, Ti-tree station is rotting away, the track is falling apart in places and the swivelling turnouts are falling apart too. I held them together for the day with lots of glue and the min number of nails.
I had a spare motor block from a Hartland Mack loco. I screwed a 1mm piece of steel under the motor block and then made the baseplate from 2mm styrene. As there is only 5mm clearance from rail, I connected a temp battery and ran it around the layout to check clearances at grade changes.
The difficult part of the build is the rounded corners of the body. I made the body from 2mm styrene and then reinforced the internal corners with 6x6mm wood.
Then I rounded the outline using my bench grinder.
Then used my usual method of applying the rivet detail, by wrapping embossed 0.5mm styrene cladding, around the corners.
This shows some of the cladding applied to the cab.
I reused a smokebox and cab roof from an old Bachmann Big Hauler. This pic is before I did the rounded edges.
The cab floor was the only place I could fit a speaker - it will be covered with black cloth. This pic also shows the box around the motor block. All the visible space around it and 20mm on top of the box, is available for batteries, Rx, ESC and sound board. I'll be using Hobbyking RC and 8, AA NiMH, 2400 mAh batteries.
The real loco had a void for about half the length of the boiler, behind the high sides. I chose not to model this as I would not have had enough room for all the batteries and RC - the Mack motor is quite high and restricts space above it. (this pic from a great model on the internet - sorry I cannot remember where it's from to acknowledge it.)
................
Way back in 1997 I made my first powered scratchbuilt model - a railmotor based on the QR original Gulflander.
It was made from plywood and a motor driving the axle via a rubber band. It was track powered.
Over the years I have added a 'magic wand' control using magnets and a simple sound system ( see OLD video here ) but I was never happy with it as it ran too fast and had no speed control, so it has mainly sat on ther shelf.
While it is not a very good model, because of its nostalgic value, I wanted to get it working again,so recently I found a 3V motor gearbox in my junk box and decided to remotor it. After all the work installing it and RC, I found it didn't have enough power.
Then luckily Keith gave me a 12V HO motor and worm gearbox. A quick test with a battery showed that it had the power and would get along at 35 kph - just right.
So I remotored it again, added new wheels, added a new Hobbyking RC, a 3S LiPo battery and simple Picaxe sound. It's a super simple control vehicle, with manual reverse.
The speaker is on the rear wall hidden behing some cream material (old handkerchief).
So click here to see it run now ... 'just for old times sake'
By the way, way back in the early days, it took part in some club drag races in it's dragster guise. For the races, I replaced the 12V motor with 3V, which gave super speed and blew the competition away. The motor only lasted just long enough before it burnt out too!
LATER ... I've now found that the 6 adjacent posts are also rotten.
I am beginning to think I'll just close the line from Ti-tree to Sandstone altogether.
Colours chosen by grandson Eddie. The unit with the nameplate 'Eddie' is a dummy and just carries the batteries. The other unit uses the usual Mack motor and contains the RC receiver and speed control electronics and sound.
speed control and diesel sound done with Picaxe controllers.
Here's what the original looks like, ............................. and my attempt so far.
I will then have enough space for radio control and sound.
I'm thinking of making a dummy unit, to make it double-ended, like this
and this shows the finished track. The track into the tunnel can be used as another Lilyvale siding.
This plan shows the overall layout around Lilyvale and Maple Jn. The new track allows trains to cross at Lilyvale and return to Melaleuca directly.
(The crossing loop at Lilyvale was only used for trains from Oleander and Ti-tree.)
The Bachmann motor block was getting jerky and I had already replaced the split gear on the axle. So a year ago I bought 3 new motor chassis from Bachmann, one was the Anniversary version with the metal valve gear. I finally got around to using it to replace the old one in #2.
It was pretty easy, just cutting back some of the boiler on the chassis. I painted the wheels black and fitted disk wheels on the front bogie instead of spoked. A bit of dry-brushing to tone down the shiny rods nad levers and a good oiling.
I still have plans to rebuild the body, but at this time I just gave it a quick overhaul... a new led headlight, new lettering on the tender (done on my home printer), raising the tender floor to match the cab floor, and a good wash !
The building has a rear awning (held on by magnets)
This required an extension of the front platform too. I've used paddle pop sticks glued to corroflute.
(The old timber face on the right is rotten and needs replacing too)
Added servo control to the third signal at Melaleuca. Servo is housed in the small cabinet.
The Railway Hotel has had a facelift.
The Melaleuca signal box has also been repainted and had new windows fitted.
No24 at a well populated Melaleuca station
A busy day on Main Street Lilyvale
at Sandstone
BUT does it need a cowcatcher??
I used Hobbyking RC and ESC, mounted in the boiler (smokebox door pulls off).
In the tender there are two, 1000mAh LiPo batteries and a picaxe sound board and speaker.
Here is a video to show off the sound....
CLICK HERE
Has Hobbyking RC (in boiler) and batteries and Picaxe sound in tender.
I had a USA Trains diesel block and a spare old Bachmann Big Hauler with nice big wheels.
So I decided to transfer the wheels to the 'diesel' block. I had to use brass tube shims to match the axles and wheel sizes.
I cut down the Bachmann connecting rod. Here's the finished work.
To support the body, I screwed a bent alum bar to the top.
The baseplate is 2.5mm styrene
The front pony truck is a couple of alum angles and a big hunk of lead, swivelling on a bar.
The boiler is 56mm OD elec conduit.
Here's the bits needed (Tx not shown). I used only six NiMH LS cells to keep the max speed down.
The 3 main bits were hot-glued together and 'stuffed' into the boiler. The batteries are in the side tank and the speaker in the floor of the cab, covered by a piece of black material.
I built the simplest possible sound system from a Picaxe 08M. Not even and amplifier - just a transistor driving the speaker. It provides a quiet hiss when stopped and louder chuff when running.
And even though I dislike bells on trains I added one here to fill the hole where the on/off switch was originally located!
Here's a short video of the sound
I had to add an operating link to operate the points I could no longer reach.
I used 4 wheels to support the ends. The centre is just a pivot/axle.
Here's Nick at Beeston Market waving the flags
This is Rik and me posing for the photographer:
Just one of Rik's beaut scratchbuilt locos (see the videos later for more pics)
And I visited Paul Holt's 'Linz Gstadt Bahn' in Wales (Paul is pure LGB!)
Rik's GR video
My GR video
And my video of the 'Little Trains of Wales".
The fire has the 5 LEDs, with bits of aluminium foil �scrunched around them and then some red cellophane also scrunched around. The wood is real twigs, burnt in a candle flame. I used polyclay to makes the rocks around the fire and the axe.
I started with a sitting figure holding a brief case. I cut the briefcase away and sliced off both arms at the shoulder.
I pivoted the right arm at the shoulder with a small screw. I cut the right hand off and rotated it to hold the mug made from a piece of plastic tube. The right arm is operated but a thin rod recessed into his coat, under his arm.
The left arm is pivoted at the shoulder and elbow. I had to make the forearm & hand from polyclay so I could get the correct angle for rotation. (the upper and lower arm have to overlap for the screw pivot). Movement is caused by the �poking stick� pushing the arm. The stick is just a piece of brass wire.
click here for a video of the movement and fire effect
I've been adding RC control to my little railcar 'Nick'. Used a keyfob type RC and a single Picaxe to do the motor control and a diesel engine sound with gear changes. Here's a short video
And as a sideline, I've been making a few hurricane lamps, from some plastic beads I found in a craft shop and other bits and pieces.
I've also written a series of 'tutorials' on how to use Picaxe.
click here
I had to cut some more rock away - obviously the track had 5mm moved from before!
Also a video of some night running.
Night running 23-2-14
The flickering firebox effect is something else I have been working on. It uses a picaxe to drive 4 LEDs in a random manner.
flickering fire video
I've fitted fluorescent lights !
And am experimenting with folded paper, concertina corridor connections between carriages.
******** CLICK HERE FOR A VIDEO OF THEM. !!!
The inside walls
long view of the buffet counter before wall added
Bacon and eggs for two! The plates are punched from thick aluminium foil.
coffee for the ladies. The mugs are 3mm styrene tube.
I even made a tiny fork.......
I've cut out all the windows:
Since the existing cars don't have end doors modeled, I'll experiment with adding concertina diaphragms between cars. This one is just a paper mock-up - it needs to be taller.
And with a bit of luck it will ultimately have a smoke generator with frying bacon smells!!!