Izaak Walton Inn
Glacier National Park, Essex, Montana, USA
An
All-Season Stay at the Izaak Walton Inn, in Two Days!
"... a unique and beautiful getaway
for
families, train buffs, groups and nature-seekers alike."
Rail Travelogue by Carl Morrison, Carl@Trainweb.com, with help
from Don "Preacher" Roe.
http://trainweb.org/carl/IzaakWaltonInn2008
Izaak Walton Inn (IWI), Essex,
Montana, June 9, 2008
Click here
tor Part I: Coast
Statlight and Empire Builder
to IWI
Part II: Izaak Walton Inn (Below)
Click here for Part III: Empire Builder and
Coast Starlight
from IWI to Los Angeles.
Timing is the
element that most defines Outdoor (including Train) Photography.
And, if you are, as we were on this trip, able to travel independent of
a tour, and spend two days full of daylight in an area, timing becomes
less stressful, and you can focus on composition and site selection
more precisely. Desk research, as we call it
in the travel writing trade, helps with the timing element as
well. For instance, I had been watching the weather at the IWI
for a couple of weeks and it had been raining with rain predicted for
10 days. Therefore, when we arrived and it was partly
cloudy, I immediately rented a car and decided to do all the
sightseeing in Glacier National Park that we could accomplish.
With 3 maps from Dorothy, IWI General Manager, we set out for
East Glacier and the sights she knew were perfect for rail fans.
She agreed that our arrival/first day was the best time to do the
driving since, "There's a big one coming in." As you will see in
the photographs in this report, We saw two Seasons at the Izaak Walton Inn
in Two Days! ... Spring and Winter." In fact,
during the second day, Dorothy exclaimed, This is the way it looks all winter
here. Another element of timing that worked in our favor
was the fact that on our way out from the IWI, we stopped at all the
railfan spots, noting the location, took photographs, but did not have
any trains in our pictures. However, on the way back to the IWI,
using the scanner and spotting trains along the way, we were able to
catch them at all the photo spots we had located that morning.
History of the Izaak Walton Inn
The Izaak Walton Hotel was built in
1939. The Great Northern Railroad did NOT build the hotel in
Essex, MT. The Railroad contracted with the Addison Miller Co.
to build and operate a hotel and lunchroom on railroad land at what was
then Walton. It was originally built to accommodate train crews
who worked in helper service and snow removal on the line over Marias
Pass. Because of a planned
Glacier National Park entrance at Park Creek, it was hoped to be a
resort open to the public. It was built larger than the
needs of the railroad. Plans for the central entrance never
materialized due to WWII.
Why the name "Izaak Walton" Hotel?
The hotel was named after Sir Izaak
Walton, a 16th century English author and sportsman. Izaak Walton
has been the patron saint of fishermen for 400 years. Born August
9, 1593 at Stafford, England, he authored the famous book about
fly-fishing, The Compleat Angler. A local resident who lived in
the area in the early days is presumed to have named the hotel after
Sir Izaak.
Location, Location, Location
The Izaak Walton Inn is located in
Essex, Montana, bordering the
southern end of Glacier National Park and the Great Bear
Wilderness. Essex is on US Highway 2 at mile marker 180,
half way between East and West Glacier, each 30 miles from Essex.
The elevation is 3866. A relaxing atmosphere with no phones, TV,
or cell service. There is Wi-Fi service downstairs in the
Bar. Rental cars are available. [I'd advise phoning
ahead and reserving one of their 4 cars at $65 a day.]
The most popular activities in summer are
white water rafting, hiking, mountain biking, wildlife viewing and
huckelberry picking. [Any season, enjoy their huckelberry ice
cream.]
Wildlife viewing includes moose, elk,
coyotes, deer, mountain sheep, and many smaller animals.
Rail fans love this place, every person I talked to during our
2-day stay had a train connection.
From the back porch, or your
room, you can watch the active helper station next door. Railroad
memorabilia is displayed throughout the Inn. They host two rail
fan weekends per year for story sharing and slide shows.
Larry and Lynda Vielleux owned the Inn from 1982 to 2006, and were
instrumental in getting the Inn listed in the National Register of
Historic Places in 1985. In 1995 the Inn underwent a major
renovation including adding bathrooms to all the rooms. Present
owners, Brian and Mary Kelly continue providing a unique and beautiful
getaway for families, train buffs, groups and nature-seekers alike.
Essex originated as a Great Northern Railway town that housed
snow crews who shoveled the snow off the tracks by hand; inspected this
section of railroad; tended water tanks, coal chutes, sand houses, the
round house and telegraph equipment, keeping the big steam engines
running over the 5,213 foot Summit, 16 miles East of Essex, the highest
point on the line.
Tom Shields homesteaded the land and by 1898 the town was able to boast
a post office.
I could not find any more to the town of Essex
than the Izaak Walton Inn and the helper station. In fact, the
closest place to refill the the gas tank on a rental car is 30 miles
away at either East of West Glacier, and that is ok with the Inn.
--Italicized
print above from Izaak Walton Inn handout
(Click
any photograph in this
report for a double-sized copy; click BACK in your browser to return to
this page.)
"Front Door" to
the Izaak Walton Hotel, where you will arrive after Bob picks you up at
the flag stop a few yards from the Hotel.
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Across the
parking lot is the "Annex" for laundry and Sauna which, I am sure, is a
popular spot for cross-country skiers.
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Lounge/Lobby
where you can spend quiet time by the fire. Computers are allowed
in the bar in the basement, to keep the quiet atmosphere here by the
fire. No cell service in this area.
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First Floor,
Room 4 with a view from your bed of the BNSF double-track main line and
yard sidings!
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Izaak Walton Inn Room Selections
We took The Great Northern, $158/$138 Deluxe large room with one queen
and one twin bed. Also available is The Empire Builder, $137 high
season | $117 low season. Standard room, with one queen and one
twin-sixed futon. Also available is The Empire Family Room, two
queens and a twin. Check in is 3 pm, but ask when you arrive to
see if early check in is available, luggage storage is definitely
available. Check out time is 11 am, but
can be extend to 3 pm for $35.
Also available, across the tracks from the Inn via the pedestiran
bridge, are other unique accommodations: four cabooses and and
five brand new cabins [pictures of both follow in this report].
Open all Year!
High Season June 16 - Sept 15 and Dec 16 - Mar 31
Low Season April 1 - June 15 and Sept 16 - Dec 15
Be sure to tell the Inn's staff if you
are arriving on the Empire Builder and/or departing on the Empire
Builder. Since this is a 'flag stop' the train will not only stop
(essential for a visit here), but Bob, Dorothy or any of the friendly
staff will be there to help
with your luggage and give you a ride in their bright red van to/from
the hotel.
Queen Bed in Room 4.
The Izaak Walton Inn's Dining Car Restaurant
You might think that a restaurant in an Inn which is 30 miles from the
nearest competition would charge monopoly prices...not the case, the
Izaak Walton Inn's "Dining Car Restaurant's" prices are reasonable and
the quality is very good. About the menu, their website
says, Breakfast seletions
might include Montana Style Potatoes with Rocky Mountain
Apple-bread or Huckleberry Pancakes with thick-sliced
bacon. Lunch favorites include Chicken and Dumplings, a shredded
pork wrap with red onion marmalade, and our grilled turkey sandwich
with roasted red peppers, suteed mushrooms, and Gouda cheese. For
dinner try our rainbow trout with lemon-pepper pesto,or perhaps grilled
breast of checken with oven-roasted tomatoes and melted Boursin
cheese. Remember to save room for our wonderful homemade desserts
such as deep-dish huckleberry cobler, caramel-topped bread pudding, or
mud pie.
Continental Breakfast is complementary for guests, 7:30 to 9:30 a.m.
Lunch Entrées, served from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. include sandwiches
and salads. Sandwiches include soup or waffle fries.
I
enjoyed the half-pound Buffalo burger (which is also on the dinner for
the same price) at 10.95. Lunch
runs from 7.95 to 12:50.
Appetizers include crab cakes, breadsticks, and Spicy Elk Sausage and
run from 4.95 to 6.95. Dinner, 5 to 7 pm, includes vegetable,
soup or salad, and bread. Prices run form 10.95 for Mountain Meadow
Salad, to 23.95 for New York Steak, with six other items in
between. Good prices for good food. Homemade desserts,
Montana beers, and wine also available.
View from the
Dining Room of a passing BNSF freight.
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Both mixed and
single-category freights travel past the Inn. Essex adds helper
locomotives to large trains headed east over the Marias summit.
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Explorations and Adventures Around Essex
Ask at the front desk for the Explorations and Adventures Around Essex
map if you have rented a car and plan to so some rail fanning
east of the Izaak Walton Inn. They will gladly mark points where
you can view BNSF snow sheds, trestles, and bridges. We made
arrangements ahead of time by phone to rent a car, so we hit the ground
running, so to speak, after depositing our luggage in the room.
The weather was from mostly cloudy to mostly sunny throughout our first
day there, and a deterioration of weather was predicted for our second
day, so we felt we needed to get all the photos we wanted the first day
and only rent a car one day. The plan worked out well, and we
spent our second day at the lodge working on this report, watching
freights, and taking walks to nearby highlights across their pedestrial
bridge.
Use your scanner (Frequency:
161.250) and listen for the detectors. There seem to be two in
the area and we
found that when either one goes off, you've got a freight coming up or
down on one of the two main line tracks. We also found that
before and after noon there are few trains, but track inspector
"Peterson" has a crew working on the two main lines. After he
relenquished control of the track, freights started rolling.
Our first outing in the car was to locate the best place to shoot the
tressels, etc. when trains did pass later.
The first spot
Dorothy directed us to was about 1/2 mile east of the IWI on Hwy. 2,
just across the
Middle Fork of the Flathead River, where we found the very long
Snowshed No. 2 above the river.
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This shed
seemed to have gone directly through an old slide area, and might still
protect the trains and track from falling rock.
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Park Rangers
were working below to stabalize the riverbank.
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This first stop
was near the Glacier National Park engrance sign.
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Rocky Mountain Goat
Goat Lick overlook, just east of Essex, just inside the southern
boundary of Glacier National Park, is one of the few places in the park
where mountain goats can be seen pretty much any time. The goats
and other animals use a special bridge under U.S. 2 to enjoy a natural
salt lick on cliffs overlooking the Middle Fork of the Flathead River.
The lick is just east of Essex on U.S. 2.
There is a viewing platform just a few feet from the end of the parking
lot. Interpretive signs inform visitors about the lick.
Late spring and early summer are the best times to see nannies with
kids. Billy goats are also often seen on the rocks or the
hillside.
Next stop, Java
West at Mile Marker 184. There is an old road that takes off to
the right, with large
boulders keeping out cars. Park there, walk down the road and
you'll find the Java Creek Trestle. That's our rental car parked
on the
road.
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This is first
sight of the Java Creek Trestle over a very deep valley through which
Java Creek runs.
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Without a train crossing the trestle, it is much easier to study the
construction of the bridge. I've seen the lower section being the
entire bridge in flatter areas, but here the rails run on top of what
I've learned to think of as a complete trestle.
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Glacier Park Lodge
Enormous Douglas fir timbers surround
the majestic lobby of the Glacier Park Lodge (below), thus it's name,
"Big Tree Hotel."
Modern-day
Blackfoot Indian art on the front of the Lodge.
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East Glacier Lodge lobby.
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Don checking
the Great Northern Dining Room's Lunch Menu, and he approved.
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The closest I
got to a Rocky Mountain Goat was this one 'stuffed' into a glass case.
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Glacier
Park Lodge was built by the Great Northern Railway, in Blackfeet
Indian territory, at the foot of Dancing Lady Mountain. The
section containing the lobby and dining room was erected in 1912 and
1913. It took a crew of 75 men a year and a half to construct the
two main buildings. The lodge, 2 miles east of the park on
Montana 49 in East Glacier, was opened to the public on June 15, 1913.
This year, it is open from May 30 through Sept. 28. Room rates
for two people range from $129 to $449.
View from our lunch table.
The walk-in fireplace in the Lobby (right).
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The 1938-39 "Red Jammer" Busses of the National Parks.
Having heard that Ford had restored the Red Jammer Busses that take
guests on tours in National Parks, I was excited about possibly seeing
one or two while in Glacier. The Izaak Walton Inn information
said that guests were not being picked up for tours this early in the
year at the Inn. Upon our arrival by rental car at the East
Glacier Park Lodge, I spotted one of the beauties, and later found the
bus barn where they are kept at the East Glacier Lodge, next to the
Amtrak Station.
This 1938 or
'39
White Jammer Bus dwarfs the later model Checker bus.
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The restoration
is immaculate, and even though they are driven through light snow and
rain, they are polished and cleaned, evidently, each day.
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Both names
"White" and "Ford" are on the grill...built by White, restored by Ford
at a donated cost of $7.5 million for the original fleet of 33.
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Restored
original bodies, on new Ford frames with E-450 V-8 engines with
automatic transmissions.
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Drivers were called "Jammers" from the
gear-crunching days of the past. Because of the new automatic
transmissions, we may see that name disappear for the next
generation. Information about their tours: (406) 892-2525
or the operator of the tour: www.glacierparkinc.com
I can't imagine
putting my 6-foot frame in the last seat (below). Before
restoration, this was the area for luggage for the passengers who
arrived by train and were transported to the nearby Lodge.
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The top can be
rolled back for viewing the vertical landscape of Glacier Natl'l.
Park. Take a hat and coat for the brisk and/or sunny ride.
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The "Bus Barn"
near the Amtrak Station at East Glacier and the Glacier Lodge.
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This two-bus
tour (above and right ) stopped at the Izaak Walton Inn for Hot
Chocolate and restrooms for the guests on a 3.5 or 8 hour tour.
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If you are a
rail fan, a rental car for $65 a day from the Izaak Walton Inn would be
better than the Red Jammer tour because you'll want to stop at spots
they have no interest in, such as RR snow sheds and trestles.
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East Glacier National Park
Just east of
East Glacier, Dorothy had told me about this classic RR trestle view
with a barn at Two Medicine Bridge. It is on the north side
of Hwy. 2, across the Two Medicine River highway bridge.
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At the same
stop for the picture at the left, I took a picture down Hwy. 2 to the
west. This is the sight you would see if you were driving from
the east to East Glacier, MT.
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Before reaching
Browning, MT, on the right (south) side of the road, you'll see this
wind break as the RR tracks cross over a ravine.
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In Browning at
the Junction of Hwy. 2 and 89, turn right and you will soon come to the
RR crossing and the Browning Amtrak Station.
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This
high-plains station seems to be closed, but I found it classic in
appearance.
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This chalk
board announces that the Empire Builder (Train 7 and 8) is on
time. The current Schedule notes:
Browning Station closes for the season
April 30, 2008, and reopens October 3, 2008.
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After visiting "Beautiful Downtown
Browning," we knew the "Going-to-the-Sun" Road was not yet open over
the summit, so we followed the Waterton-Glacier
International Peace Park map, provided by Dorothy at the Walton
Inn, and turned back on Hwy. 89 from Browning west, then caught Hwy. 49
over Looking Glass back to
the East Glacier Lodge. On Hwy. 49, we passed two Red Jammers, so
this was their
route as well. We took Hwy 2 westward back toward Essex and
beyond to West
Glacier.
Retracing our steps along Hwy. 2 back to
Essex from East Glacier, we listened to the scanner (Frequency:
161.250) for the two
detecters to report any passing trains, as well as kept our eyes peeled
for slow freights we could photograph crossing the trestles and through
the snow sheds we had seen along the way earlier in the day.
One good thing about
retracing your steps on a train or in a car, you can see the good
things again and discover things you missed. Such was the case of
Silver Steps Falls, which we had missed on the way up, probably because
we were looking to the left/north, the RR side, for trains! This
falls is a tributary to Bear Creek.
Rocky Mountain
Sheep graze on the east side of the Hwy. 2 bridge from the Goat Lick
Trestle.
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I caught an
uphill freight crossing Hwy. 2 near highway mile marker 184.
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Because
locomotive photographs on bridges are more interesting to me than
freight cars, I hustled over to the nearby trestle and shot the uphill
container freight.
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Since it was an
uphill freight, I calculated that at the end there would be the two
helpers from Essex and a photo with those locomotives would be a good
shot.
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Sure enough it
was 6819 and 6821 (with the current logo) that we had seen idling,
helping, and returning to Essex for two days.
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We drove past
Essex 30-some miles to West Glacier's Amtrak stop.
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We had passed
this Belton/West Glacier Station coming in on the Empire Builder a day
earlier, so it was interesting to
see inside the classic station.
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We topped off
the rental car's gas tank since this was the closest gas to Essex.
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The view from
our Room 4 of a passing freight.
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All trains past
the Inn pass under their pedestrian bridge over to their 4 cabosses, 5
cabins, and summer help housing.
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The Inn is
beautifully landscaped, with authentic RR antiques.
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The helper yard
is literally a few yards away. When freights stop in front of the
Inn, you know they are attaching the helpers. After helping the
freights past Marias Summit, you will see the helpers quickly return
downgrade for
another job.
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A pedestrian bridge, built by the IWI
across the tracks,
allows access to the four Caboose (and five future cabin)
accommodations.
Don, who inspected the bridge before I used it, told me about the
openings for cameras conveniently placed on both sides of the bridge.
Across the pedestrian
bridge, there is a snow trail immediately to your right where you can
get some good shots of the Izaak Walton Inn (above and
below). One guest at the hotel came here because he had seen this
location on the Train Simulator computer program. He mentioned
that the simulator model looked very much like the real thing.
Each guest here seems to have a railroad story. One gentleman
mentioned that his grandfather had taken him, as a young boy, on all
the passenger lines in the US, and even into cabooses of working
freights. He explained how some steam engines used to take on
water "on the fly," from troughs between the tracks.
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You can get
closer to the helper engines on this side of the tracks, without
stepping on RR property.
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Move farther
down the snow trail and you can get a good side view of the other
helpers in the yard.
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You won't see
many photos of the Inn from this angle, including the teepee between
the Inn and the walkway.
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The pedestrian bridge from the far side of the bridge.
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Good (only)
place to capture passing trains with the Inn in the background.
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Sometimes,
capturing the second lead engine makes a good photo as well. The
height of the snow trail allows you to capture both the locomotive and
the Inn.
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I was at this
site when the westbound Amtrak stopped for Izaak Walton Inn
guests, 1/8 mile east of the Inn. (They do not stop precisely at
the Inn, as their advertisements might lead you to believe, but rather
beyond the yard where guests need to cross only one siding to get to
the van.)
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You could
capture this scene with the eastbound
Empire Builder to match their advertisement.
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The IWI's red
van returns with guests from the Empire Builder.
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The Great Northern banner on the hotel
reminds us that this building was used by the builder of the line, Great Northern.
It is a wild life
in Essex (right). We
saw two mule deer, unconcerned about train or pedestrian traffic,
cross the right-of-way a few times.
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John Longworth,
Train Simulator user who wanted to see the actual location of the Essex
Helper Station in the simulator.
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During the
restroom/hot chocolate stop of the second Red Jammer tour, the light
rain turned to snow flurries. This photo was taken at 11:44 a.m.,
notice the accumulation of snow by the end of this report!
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Even the
hardware on the Inn's doors is rail-related...a RR spike for a door
handle.
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The temperature
at first snow flurries was about 35 degrees, according to the back
porch thermometer.
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I enjoyed re-photographing the scenes around the Inn, as we moved from
springtime to winter, all in one afternoon:
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It was good,
wet snow, perfect for snowballs!
Don had perfect
timing in this photo, as I released the snowball at him, he snapped
this picture. (It didn't hit him, or my camera!)
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The chef came out to retrieve the flowers...
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and Hotel
Manager, Dorothy, shook off the snow from the blossoms and retrieved
the second pot to the front porch.
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Photos from the pedestrian overpass after about 4 inches of snow had
fallen:
Views outside our Room 4 window.
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Further
evidence that Great Northern had something to do with the Izaak Walton
Inn, their logo adorns the front porch's railing.
The cross arm with telegraph-wire glass insulators make a nice light
pole (right).
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The westbound
Empire Builder was due to arrive at 7 pm, so about 6:45, Dorothy loaded
up the 8 passengers' luggage in the Inn's van. After 7 guests
piled in, I decided to walk the 1/8 mile to the flag stop. This
being the last time I would be in snow like this for who knows when.
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I followed the
freshest tracks in the snow to see where the van had preceeded me
(there was only one wye where I could have made a mistake). I
said a silent goodbye to the pedestrian overpass, and enjoyed the short
time of solitude between me and Mother Nature's softest percipitation.
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Dorothy had
said, "This is how it looks all winter," and I was able to see it take
place in one day, actually one afternoon.
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As the seven
waited in the idling Inn's van, I continued to wait outside, and listen
to and watch the snow fall from the evergreen's drooping branches.
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We were
planning for a 7:00 arrival, and I took this picture at 7:04 pm, not
a bad prediction by Amtrak.com's Train Status.
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Dorothy saw the
train arriving and quickly got out and 'flagged' the engineer.
It's the first time I've ever departed and boarded a train at a
flag
stop.
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When we 8 departing
Izaak Walton Inn guests were onboard, we rounded the bend for a
departing look back at the Inn. As usual, guests were in the yard
and on the porch waving at the train. (Compare this photo to the first
one in this report which was taken the morning of the previous
day.) That's why I consider our visit here, "Two Seasons in Two
Days." Dorothy later told me that 10 inches of snow fell that
June day. As Don and I looked back on the trip, we Southern
Californian's both agreed it was the highlight of the trip.
Make your reservations at the Izaak Walton Inn now:
(406) 888-5700
Tips for staying at the Izaak Walton Inn, Essex, Montana
Since you arrive in the morning of your first day, and depart in the
evening on the second day, you get
two
full days and one night for the
price of one night's lodging. Instead of checking out at
11 a.m.,
I'd suggest using the 'check out late' option and make your checkout
time 3 pm for only $35.
Since the Inn is 30-some miles from either East Glacier or West
Glacier, and no 'Whoa and Go' type stores for less than 30 miles, I'd
rent a car directly from the Inn at
$65 a day. Since we arrived by rail and rented a car, we
found a Dollar Rent-a-Car ad in the Empire Builder's Spring/Summer
Magazine, "Mention Amtrak and get unlimited
mileage on your rental car."
Take advantage of the
Off Season rates.
We were there in June,
before the Going to the Sun Road was completely open of snow, but
everything else was open and the weather was fine...one day of spring
and one day of winter with 5.5 inches of snow! So, we saw two
seasons in Glacier Park in two days!
To see what the
current conditions
are at the Izaak Walton Inn, complete with temperature, chance of
percipitation, and barometric pressure, check their live web cam:
http://izaakwaltoninn.com/webcam.htm
Electronic Gear that I take, and a
wish list for more:
MacBook laptop computer with iPhoto digital image editing software,
compatible external hard drive to back up all photos, Canon XTi DSLR
camera with 28 - 300 MM (Wish list: 10 - 24 mm wide angle),
compatible USB digital card reader, monopod/walking stick and/or
tripod, built-in or external flash, two or more 4-GB digital storage
cards, power bar with 3 prong to 2 prong adapters, digital camera
battery charger, GPS with external antenna and electrical- and
car-power adapters, wireless or Ethernet Internet connectivity (Wish
List: Adapter for computer for Internet where cell phone signal
is available...not available at IWI), flash light for night shot camera
settings, rotating polarizing lens for camera for good contrast skies
and eliminating reflections in shots from inside windows, rain
gear and winter clothing.