All text and photos by
Tim Helmuth
tim@trainweb.com
Part 3 of a 3 part jaunt across America on Amtrak
The first two installments since leaving Central Illinois can be found here: www.trainweb.org/tim
Inside the ARTIC with escalators to all trains.
6:30 AM came with a
jolt, warning me to leave the La Quinta and order an Uber to the ARTIC
for the 8:04 AM arrival of the 763 Surfliner to LAUS. The
train arrived about 10 minutes behind schedule.
With my booking a Roomette on the Coast Starlight, Amtrak
gave me a Business Class seat on the Surfliner, which provided access
to some light breakfast food including juice, coffee, pastry and a
newspaper. We arrived in Los Angeles the same 10 minutes late
at 8:56 AM. I quickly checked
into the Metropolitan Lounge and left my bags to explore the station
before our boarding call. I
was able to view the well-known Traxx restaurant and lounge from the
Great hall, but it was not open.
Above: interior pictures of the Great Hall and waiting areas
The Coast Starlight
boarding call came around 9:40 AM. Red Cap
assistance was provided for those who needed it. The rest of
the passengers formed a large contingent, walking out of the lounge and
back through the station to the tunnel, stopping at track 10A.
We waited shortly for the train
to back into the station and boarded quickly for an on time departure.
Boarding was an orderly event. There was definitely excitement and anticipation in the air as Sleeper car passengers became acquainted with their neighbors. I enjoyed seeing the smiling surprise of those who were not aware of the Parlour car and its features, including private dining.
Once tickets were
lifted, sleeper car passengers began to gather in the Parlour car and
enjoy gliding past Bob Hope Airport, Van Nuys and ultimately leaving the LA basin
behind in our approach to Simi Valley. All stops were on time. After departing Oxnard
only 3 minutes late, we began to draw near the coast towards Ventura
where we would be treated to our first glimpse of the Pacific Ocean.
Scenery along the way was highlighted by the Channel Islands between Ventura and Santa Barbara. Later there were views of picturesque beach parks with cars and RVs parked at the water's edge.
Left: Pacific Parlour Car facing forward in the direction of travel Right: RV parked at ocean near Faria Beach State Park
Pacific Ocean at Faria Beach State Park
At lunch time, the
Parlour car offered dining options that included the choice of an
Italian submarine sandwich or a Greek salad. I
was holding 12:30 PM reservations for the dining car so that I might
enjoy the Angus beef burger again.
I was seated with a man and his mother & aunt who
were traveling to Spokane. As it
turns out, he was an Engineer for Amtrak who worked on the Surfliners
between Los Angeles and San Diego. I
had a great conversation with them, asking and receiving
the inside scoop on employee travel discounts and other
interesting facts. I
was so engrossed in the talk that I did not notice that I was eating
the Black Bean burger until almost all the way through - it had been
mistakenly delivered. However, it was very tasty and satisfying. As we were eating, we had
a station stop at Santa Barbara and then continued northward. Rolling
along, we hug the shoreline through Gaviota, passing El Capitan State
Beach and then Point Conception. We passed Vandenberg Air Force Base
which is home to a runway built to provide an alternative landing for
the Space Shuttle program. Glimpses
of various launch buildings are also visible.
Migrant workers in the fields
Our next station stop
was San Louis Obispo at 3:38 PM, still running only a few minutes late.
After SLO, a wine tasting was offered in the Pacific Parlour Car for
sleeper car and business class passengers.
Two California wines were offered including a Wente
Cabernet, a Chardonnay, and an Argentinian Trapiche Malbec. The reds were nice, but I
find Chardonnay to be too oaked. Amtrak
charges $7.50 for each participant for the three samples (served in
glass glasses) and then offered a cheese and cracker plate for $5.00 or
$5.50 - I did not purchase one.
Oil wells after Paso Robles
Sunset from Parlour Car. The light smear is a reflection of the wall sconce behind me.
Braised Lamb Shank
I was holding dinner reservations for 6:30 in the Parlour car as the lamb shank was featured on the menu. I caught a quick nap before cleaning up for dinner - all this lounging around the Parlour car and swapping stories was hard work. Dinner arrived and the lamb shank proved to be the *best* meal I experienced on the entire trip. Try to visualize a lamb Popsicle the size of a turkey drumstick - this was a nice hunk of meat. Braised until it was fall-off-the-bone tender and served on a bed of rice with mixed vegetables. I was able to find a version of the recipe here, courtesy of the Los Angeles Times. It was followed by a reasonable facsimile of Tiramisu and coffee. Bedtime came after a station stop at Jack London Square at Oakland. Here we had a chance to get out and stretch and take note of the change in climate since leaving the LA basin. Cooler air and gathering clouds were noticed.
One of the strange (read
dumb) events of the trip occurred as we were leaving the Oakland stop. One of the passengers had
not heard the train whistle or the ubiquitous "All Aboard!" called out
by the conductor. As
we glided out of the station, our passenger began running with his
walking cane and was pulled into the sleeper car door by two other
passengers as the conductor screamed "Stop, don't even try it". The train stopped,
allowing the conductor to board our car and signal that the train could
proceed. I called
it a night at this point.
Daylight at Dunsmuir
Klamath Falls station stop
I enjoyed lunch in the
dining car, seated with two individuals.
One had left LA in his car which broke down in Sacramento, leaving
him enough cash from the salvage to ride Amtrak Business Class home. The other was a Portland
resident returning from a weekend trip to San Francisco. I sampled the Angus burger
for the last time and a side salad with it.
Dessert was skipped in favor of a short nap due to
my early morning.
Because of our expected late arrival in Portland, I was able to have the benefit of a bonus meal in the Pacific Parlour Car. This time I enjoyed the smoky mac n cheese with a side salad and iced tea. I was seated with a couple from Berkeley as they traveled to visit friends in Portland. The mac was very good - my guess was smoked Gouda and Swiss were the key ingredients. After dinner I had an hour to pack and get ready for arrival at PDX.
At 7:38 PM I disembarked
the Coast Starlight and strolled through the station. I
headed southeast to the MAX rail station stop at NW 6th & Hoyt
to wait for the Green line to take me east towards Clackamas Town
Center. I changed trains at Gateway to board a Red train for
the airport and got off at the Cascades Station stop. The
Trimet MAX light rail system is spotless - I did not see any graffiti
anywhere on the cars. I had another overnight booked with La
Quinta, and their courtesy van had me picked up and delivered to La
Quinta Inn Portland Airport by before 8:30 PM. I finished
watching Transsiberiean and dropped off to sleep before 10 PM.
I slept 8 hours straight for the first time in days. Not that sleep on the train was difficult, but that there was a pattern of early morning rising and then a time change to shorten your overnight. Picking up the pace in this report, I checked out of La Quinta and rode the hotel van to the Airport at 11:30 AM to get ready for a 1:15 PM flight. I got through a long TSA screening line and was able to order some lunch in the airport prior to boarding. My total airfare of $166.23 included the base fare, 1 checked bag, group 1 boarding (to guarantee that I would be able to stow my backpack) plus the insult of paying for the privilege to choose a seat ahead of time. And the government's cut of $26.27 in taxes. We took off early and landed early at O'Hare with zero incidents. Our early arrival to Chicago earned us a taxiing tour around the airport runways for 15 minutes as our gate was still in use by an outbound flight.
View from room at O'Hare Hilton Saturday, October 3, 2015
My S
Obviously,
the Coast Starlight is a unique pony in the Amtrak stable. It is
the only train with a Parlour Car and that offers some distinction.
Greg, the bar man and car attendant on our northbound Pacific
Parlour Car was a pleasure to meet and a perfect example of service,
dedication and subtle humor. This was the
only car on the trains ridden that served in glass glasses, china
plates and cloth table coverings. This is the last vestige of
elegance on the rail in the Amtrak experience (unless you are privy to
a private car to tour in). This ride shall always be remembered
for the food, company and sheer enjoyment.
Budget for ANA-LAX-PDX segment: $732.63 |
Rail Fare and Expenses: |
Retail value of included meals (before tips) |
ANA-PDX | $105.30 AAA Coach+$232.00 roomette
supplement $337.30 |
Wednesday: Black Bean Burger+Cheese+Bacon Salad Iced Tea $20 (Pricing of dinner in Parlour Car is not published. Assume $24.75 for meat entre, $3 Salad $6.25 Dessert, $2 drink $30) |
LQ Portland | $113.14 | Thursday: Railroad French Toast, Sausage & Juice $15 Angus Burger, Salad, Ice Tea $16.50 (Dinner in Parlour Car Assume $15.75 for pasta $3 salad, $2 drink $20.75) |
AA flight PDX-ORD | $188.50 | |
Lunch @ PDX | $10.69 | Total value of included food: $108.25 |
Pizza @ Hilton | $17.00 with tip | Sleeper car fare net of food: $123.75 for 1 night in a bed. A little more than a decent hotel. |
Tip for SCA | $15.00 |
Coach plus dining: $213.55 |
Sodas and snacks on train |
$16.00 |
|
Peoria Charter Coach to BNL | $35.00 | Would I have spent $108.25 in food if traveling in Coach? Probably not. I would have gone without desserts and paid beverages. Water is served gratis upon request. The cafe car offers more affordable option, or you are allowed to carry on your own food for consumption at your seat. |
Total for this segment | $732.63 | |
Total for Southwest Chief | $698.54 | Cost to see America in the only civilized manner that remains: $1431.17 |
Thanks for reading,