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The Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad East to West 7/17/2016

Robin, Chris Parker, Elizabeth and I awoke at the Rodeway Inn in Alamosa then had breakfast at the Country Kitchen. We met at the car for the drive to Antonito and once there, we picked up our tickets and started to explore.

The Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad is a three foot narrow gauge heritage railroad running between Chama, New Mexico and Antonito, Colorado. It runs over the 10,015 foot Cumbres Pass and through Toltec Gorge, from which it takes its name. Trains operate from both endpoints and meet at the midpoint. Today, the railroad is the highest and longest narrow gauge steam railroad in the United States with a track length of 64 miles. The train traverses the border between Colorado and New Mexico, crossing back and forth between the two states 11 times. The Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad has been jointly owned by the States of Colorado and New Mexico since 1970 when it was purchased from the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railway, saving it from the scrap yards. The Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad received the Designation of a National Historic Landmark in 2012 by the United States National Park Service.

The railroad line was originally constructed in 1880-1881 by the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad as part of their San Juan Extension stretching from Alamosa, Colorado to Durango, Colorado. The line was constructed with three foot narrow gauge track to match the D&RGW's other lines. The line primarily supported mining operations in the San Juan mountains, mainly around Durango and Silverton. The longest and highest portion of the railroad, known as the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad, is 64 miles long and was constructed in 1880 in less than 9 months; an engineering miracle even by today's standards, considering the work was all done by hand.

Today's Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad was built in 1882 as a branch line off this main. By the late 1950s mining had dwindled substantially and the line was on the verge of abandonment, but an oil boom near Farmington, New Mexico created a traffic surge that kept the line operating for another decade hauling oil and pipe. By the late 1960s the traffic was virtually gone and abandonment was applied for. The States of Colorado and New Mexico purchased the 64 miles of San Juan Extension between Antonito, Colorado and Chama, New Mexico in 1970 and started operating the next year under the name of the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad.

The Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad continues to operate daily between May and October each year with five fully-restored steam locomotives. Soon the C&TSRR will have six fully restored engines when D&RGW 168 locomotive is moved from Colorado Springs, Colorado to Antonito, Colorado and restored to service. The 168 will then be the oldest and most authentic steam locomotive in the United States operating. The 168 was built in 1883 and is only one of two remaining of the original twelve locomotives built between 1883 and 1885 for the D&RG line. The other locomotive, 169 is on static display in Alamosa and not operational.

In 1970, the states of Colorado and New Mexico jointly purchased the portion of the line from Antonito to Chama along with much of the equipment that operated on the line. This section is the most scenic portion of the line, and a part that loops back and forth between the two states. The Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad Commission was created by an act of Congress as a bi-state entity to oversee the railroad. Over the years the railroad has been operated by several operators under contract by the commission, including Scenic Railways (1970-1981), Kyle Railways (1982-1996), Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Corporation/George Bartholomew (1997-1999), Rio Grande Railroad Preservation Corporation (2000-2002), Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Management Corporation (2003-2011), American Heritage Railways (2012) and Cumbres and Toltec Operating LLC (2013-).

Trains depart each morning from both Chama and Antonito. In peak season there are trains every day of the week in either direction. They meet at Osier, the midpoint of the line where lunch is provided. Passengers may continue on their train to the other end or switch trains to return to their original terminal. Through riders have the option of a motor coach return to their original terminal. All seats are reserved. Seats are sometimes available to walk-ups, but this is rare in peak season.

The line passes through Rio Grande and Carson National Forests. Most of the line is bordered by rocky ledges, cliffs and formations of varying types. The train passes along the rim of Toltec Gorge, a spectacular, though brief highlight. Conifer and aspen trees dominate with periodic mountain meadows. The aspen trees turn a brilliant yellow in the fall making those trips popular. The easternmost quarter shifts to scrubby and arid rolling hills. There are numerous restored historic structures along the line, including two tunnels, bridges, section houses and water tanks.

The Cumbres and Toltec is highly regarded by both railfans and historians due to its relative authenticity and surviving historic fabric. Chama houses one of the most physically complete railroad yards from the steam era in the United Sates. Although portions of the roundhouse, warehouses and parking lots have been changed, the railroad yard has the ambiance of pre-1960 railroad operations. The yard tracks contain authentic rolling stock and structures of the Denver and Rio Grande indigenous to the railroad line.

All the steam locomotives at the C&TS were built for and operated their entire careers for the Denver and Rio Grande Western. All 2-8-2 Mikados, these range from the relatively small K-27 "Mudhen", 463, once owned by Gene Autry, to the large K-37s, originally built as standard gauge locomotives. The mainstays are the venerable K-36 fleet, produced by Baldwin Locomotive Works in 1925. The only two Surviving D&RGW rotary snowplows are onsite and both have operated for the C&TS.

As Denver & Rio Grande Railroad San Juan Extension, the railway was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1973. The boundaries of the NRHP listed area were increased in 2007.

The railroad was featured extensively in the 1969 film "The Good Guys and the Bad Guys" and was used in the opening sequence of "Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade". The 2014 film "A Million Ways to Die in the West" also featured this railroad.

The C&TS has numerous siding and yards. There are turning wyes at Chama, Cumbres and Bighorn, turning loops at Osier and Antonito and a crossover at Lava. While officially headquartered in Chama, the railroad splits most of its functions between the terminuses of the railroad. The Cumbres and Toltec Commission offices are at Antonito, along with the railroad's main car shop where repairs to rolling stock are performed. The center of actual operations for the railroad is Chama, the site of the locomotive repair shop and the location of most of the historic equipment.

The end of standard gauge sign.

To my surprise, Cumbres and Toltec Scenic 2-8-2 "Mudhen" 463, ex. Gene Autry 1955, exx. Denver and Rio Grande Western 463 1921, nee Denver and Rio Grande Railroad 463, built by Baldwin in 1903, would pull our train today.

Our train consisted of 2-8-2 463, coach 504 "Sublette", coach 516 "Lobato", coach 522 "Arriba", coach 517 "Dalton", coach 521 "Santa Fe", open gondola 9613 "Toltec Vista", tourist car 511 "Chama and parlour car "New Mexico".

Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad coach 504 "Sublette", built by the railroad in 1986 from Denver and Rio Grande Western flat car 6540.

Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad coach 516 "Lobato", built by the railroad in 1986 from Denver and Rio Grande Western flat car 6543.

Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad coach 522 "Rio Arriba", built by the railroad in 1993 from Denver and Rio Grande Western flat car AX4606.

Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad coach 517 "Dalton", built by the railroad in 1997 from Denver and Rio Grande Western flat car AX4629.

Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad coach 521 "Santa Fe", built by the railroad in 1993 from a Denver and Rio Grande Western flat car.

Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad open gondola 9613 "Toltec Vista", built by the Denver and Rio Grande Western in 1953 as a standard-gauge box car.

Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad tourist car 511 "Chama", built by the railroad in 1986 from Denver and Rio Grande Western flat car 6501.

Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad parlor car 514 "New Mexico", built by the railroad in 1986 from Denver and Rio Grande Western flat car 6538.

The proper end of our train. I then showed Elizabeth around the yard.

Robin Bowers proving that boys will always play with trains. Next we went by the engine house.

Denver and Rio Grande Western 2-6-0 168, built by Baldwin in 1883, being restored.

Chris Parker proving that boys will always play with water towers.

The entrance to the Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad.

The Antonito water tower.

Denver and Rio Grande Western K37 2-8-2 494, built by the railroad in 1928.

Cumbres and Toltec Scenic 44 ton center cab switcher 19, built by General Electric in 1943 from the Oahu Railway and Land Company.

I bought a really nice T-shirt then boarded the tourist car for the ride to Chama, but would not spend too much time in it as the open car is always the preferred car in which to ride. We departed on time at 10:00.

Leaving Antonito behind.

Crossing US Highway 285.

Looking back into the entrance of the Antonito facility.

Goodbye Antonito water tower.

Interior of tourist car 511 "Chama".

Mount San Antonio, the only shield volcano in the continental United States.

Crossing the Hangman's Trestle.

The train starting up the grade.

Looking through the morning haze at the Sangre de Cristo Mountains.

Rounding curves to gain elevation.

Our journey on the first loop, crossing the New Mexico and Colorado state lines three times.

A prong-horned antelope scurried into the bush.

The signposts for crossing the state lines.

On the way to the Lava Loop.

Crossing another state line sign.

Passing the Lava station sign.

Starting up the Lava Loop.

Sage as far as the eye can see.

Climbing the Lava Loop.

The Lava water tank. At 8,000 feet and slightly less than 11 miles from Antonito, the railroad has gained 600 feet in altitude. Lava is still "simply a water station". The original tank burned in the fall of 1971, probably by a careless photographer who had climbed to the top. The present tank was originally in Antonito, but was dismantled and moved here after the fire. Water is brought up from the Rio De los Pinõs by a pumping station located beside the river.

We left the Lava Tank behind as we continued to climb the grade.

The fire speeder following behind our train.

Looking back to where we had been.

Climbing toward Whiplash Curve.

Ascending into the hills.

On the way to Whiplash Curve.

The view across the valley.

Climbing the loop below Whiplash Curve.

The wonderful Elizabeth Alkire on her first trip on the Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad.

Rounding Whiplash Curve as we continued to climb the grade.

Mount San Antonio.

Looking back to the bottom of Whiplash Curve.

Climbing toward Big Horn.

Big Horn Peak.

The Yard Limit sign for Big Horn.

Approaching Big Horn.

The Big Horn wye with the curved tail track.

The Big Horn sign.

The Big Horn communication shed.

Our train taking the loops as it continues the climb to gain more elevation.

We have left the scrub desert floor and now are entering the forests as we climb higher.

The view north.

Passing MP 300.

Looking down into the valley.

Curving on the next loop.

We were now just below the Colorado state line.

Part 2 of this travelogue