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BLURR Portable Model Railroad .

BLURR Portable Model Railroad

In the 1990's, I made a very portable model railroad.

I named it the

. . . . BLURR

Bruce's Loop Union Rail Road.

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(Gary said it was the Bruce's Loop UN-sceniced Rail Road, and he's still right after 20 years)

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Blurring FAST to set up and take down, because it's one piece.
I made it fast to set up in 10 minutes between school classes.

Here's a picture from long ago just after I built it.

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. . . . . . Someone should do a styrofoam scenery modeling clinic with it. I don't have time to improve it.

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I hauled it out of the garage and set it up for pictures today (May 2011).
(Gee whiz, it still doesn't look like much after 20 years.)

I just set it on a picnic table. It doesn't have it's own legs.

The round circle in the middle is a picture board with railroad-y old calendar pictures.
It was easier to use pictures than finish the scenery. It's made of thin plywood, can be hauled flat, and rolls into a circle.
It's easy to haul and acts like a view blocker to hide how small this railroad really is.

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I did it in HO-scale because all my equipment is HO. I could have saved lots of space and size if I did it in N-scale.

I considered just building a circle of track, but that doesn't allow much space for a train. The engine could be within inches of the caboose.
So I planned it a few inches bigger and went with an over-and-under layout.
It has the full 22-foot scale clearance to allow hi-cubes and double-stack container trains.
But it also has 4% grades.
It's not that much of a hill climb when running long trains, because part of the train is coasting down while the other part is going up.
Just don't expect an 0-4-0 to push a 200-ton crane up that grade.
Modern locomotives and transistor power packs have good speed control and don't need constant adjustment to keep a steady speed.

The only thing that makes it bearable to watch long cars go around an 18-inch radius track is that the train never leaves a curve.
The car's corner overhang is there, but it is consistent and never changes. So the train looks smooth going around.
. . . . . and around.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . and around.

With the over-and-under, I can run over 25 cars in HO-scale and yet it looks like the engine is a long way from the caboose.
Although, in one place, the conductor in the caboose could hand a lunch pail to the engineer on the other track.

What's that you say about cabooses?
Have you ever been asked at a model railroad show,
. . . . . . 'my train set has a caboose, but I don't know how to use it. I've never seen one on a real railroad.'

This view of the over-under needs a bridge plate and trestle supports for realism. Or a viaduct, but the track angle doesn't suit concrete arches.
Any scenery that I would ever install should be fast to set up, and break-resistant.

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The only scenery in 20 years is some paint (and not enough of that) and this piece of plaster block wall from a friend.
And I made a red ribbed steel retaining wall (which has just one section so far).
It is simulated by the corrugated interior of light-bulb cardboard boxes.
It was easy and cheap (ask my friends about that).
The wall was a proper model engineering method to scenic the close vertical edge between tracks.

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Besides the over-and-under, there is a passing siding and a spur.
Comparing the view below with the first picture at the top of this page, I must have squeezed in the passing siding after I first built it.

It's mostly 18-inch minimum radius, and 15-inch on the spur to get inside the circle.

I wired it for 4 blocks with an Atlas Selector switch (this was long before DCC was around).

The whole layout is 43 x 46 inches.

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. . . . . . . . . . .Trains run within an inch of the edge.
. . . . . . . . . . . On some places I put a low side of presswood board for fall-off protection.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . And some low scenery might help, too.

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The bottom of the layout is just wood blocks
and cookie-cutter scraps of 7/16-inch plywood.

I didn't weigh it, but it feels like it's under 20 lbs.

It is still fairly rigid, compared to a flat piece of wood.


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To help me haul it by myself up steps and down long hallways of schools,
I added this wooden shoulder rest.

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Here's the Union part of the railroad.
One spur heads off the corner of the layout.
It can connect to other modules that can have switching or whatever.

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This year, I also have an un-used module. (the rest are built almost permanently into my basement model railroad)
I could put this small yard module on the spur. It's 1 x 4 foot and framed in 1 x 4 lumber.

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Link back to my index page, Bruce's RailRoad Pictures

( the index page is now on the TrainWeb site, as of January 2011. And I will have to also keep the Next Generation index up-to-date also )
This page wrote in May 2011

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