Warning: This travelogue is 3212 words long!

Moments of anxiety flew past as I was waiting for the Taxi. He was to reach my residence by 1330 and it was already 5 minute past the target! I was sure that he took a wrong turn. After a couple of minutes, I called him once more and informed him of the correct way! He made it to my residence by 1340. It was a very old Premier Padmini Black-and-yellow meter taxi. The car looked too old even to run at 30kmph! The driver confidently held his door tight enough and blasted through the 8-Laned Palm Beach internal expressway! The car was doing atleast 80kmph on most stretches! He landed into Dadar station by 1445, just about an hour since we started! The station – Dadar – was heavily crowded (Thank god for it being a Sunday!!!). There was hardly any space to move in. We (I and my parents) had 3 pieces of luggage, and each one was holding one piece each!!! Enquiry with a porter revealed that our train would arrive on Platform 5. He pretended as if Platform 5 was in the Artic pole while we were at the Antarctic!!!

There were enough empty seats for us at the Platform! Our train was a good 90 minutes away! I strolled along the length of the platform. The terminus section had the Vidharbha and the Ratnagiri Passenger inside. Both the trains had Locos at both ends! The platform was infested with RPF and GRP/State police personnel. I was very cautious not to use my camera. I saw the Bhubaneshwar bound Konark coming in. This train had 18 coaches and a huge number of people waiting to board. The train vacated the platform soon. EMU traffic seemed to be higher on Sunday than on other days! The platforms were crowded to their maximum. At around 1540, an announcement regarding the arrival of our train was made! The train pulled in sharp at 1555. The train – 1081 Down Mumbai CST – Cape Kanyakumari Express – had 17 coaches and WCG2 #20157 in-charge. Our coach (AS1, #03106, Mazgaon base) was the 14 th from the loco. The AC seemed to be very powerful, but it wasn't. The train pulled out sharp at 1600. The rake of the Dadar-Chennai “Superfast” was already there at the platform (#7).

Kanyakumari express rekindles the memories of my first journey to Mumbai (in 1999) which was on board the “opposite” Kanyakumari Express. By now, the train picked speed and it was raining heavily. Sion…Kurla…Ghatkopar…Vikhroli…etc…simply flew past. The train slowed down between Bhandup and Thane, but quickly regained speed. We pulled into Kalyan at 1648 (late by 10 minutes). Most passengers joined this train there! Still more than 70% of the coach was empty. It was raining heavily and I sat near the window of a Lower berth. The attendant had already distributed the bedrolls. The pantry staff was busy selling their wares. The pantry of this train had undergone a vast change since my last travel (in this train) in 1999. The pantry was named “Rail Rasoi” with a catchy tagline “Swasth Khana Mast Safar” (meaning “Health food Joyous journey”). Their uniforms have changed – It is a combination of light-and-dark brown with a graphic cap!

It was cold in-and-out of the train. A vendor from the pantry came selling hot Chilli Bhajjis (Chilli fried in a batter of Gram flour) and Potato Vadas. The snacks were tasty. The vada has enough spice unlike the ones usually found at Railway canteens! By the time I finished a piece of the Vada; the train slowed down and was on its final approach to Karjat station. I went to the door. By this time, the lead loco had already entered the loop. The howl of the bankers was already audible as our coach neared them. The bankers that were to serve our train were a triplet of WCG2s (led by 20119). The train stopped at the platform at 1730 (delayed by about 12 minutes). By now the points for the bankers were set and they started rolling towards the train. It was a matter of just a couple of minutes, and the bankers were ready to take charge! The train was ready to proceed but proceed signal wasn't given. The signal turned yellow at 1738. The bankers gave out a very long horn and the train moved backwards by a few inches and then forward at a very slow pace. The ‘triple assistants' were now pushing up the train. The sound from the bankers was clearly audible in our coach (which was just 3 coaches away from them!).

Just as the train crossed Palasdhari, I saw a WCG2 climbing down the third line with the Deccan Express in tow. Our climb was picturesque. The ghats had water-falling from everywhere. The wind was too cold. There was fog everywhere as the train approached the Monkey hill cabin. Our train crossed the Koyna Express somewhere before Khandala. I wanted to see the Udyan, but we probably crossed in when we were inside a tunnel! We slowly approached Lonavla. The arch bridge just before the station indicated that the station was just metres away. The train stopped at the platform at 1810. The PA system was busy announcing the impending arrival of 6332 Trivandrum – Mumbai Weekly Express. By the time our train came to a standstill, the weekly was already in. The loco taking the lead was WCG2 #20134. The train came to a standstill. On turning back, I saw our bankers already close to the outer signal! The weekly express had already been cleared and the train inched towards Khandala. The bankers which worked our train were now on the stabling line and slowly came close to my coach.

A Pune bound EMU was ready for departure at Platform 3. It was getting dark and the train sped towards Pune. I settled inside the coach glancing through a Magazine. Vendors from the pantry were now taking orders for dinner. The train sped through under-lit EMU stations. We had already crossed Shivaji nagar and the train had now entered Pune yard. We entered the station at 1920. I decided to sprint towards the loco to have a look at the loco change. Bhubaneshwar bound Konark, which was ahead of our train, was now waiting for the signal. A Kazipet loco was already coupled to the train, and was ready to leave! Our WCG2 had already left. The SLR was being filled. RPF were very few in number. I decided to wait for our new loco to come in. At about 1926, I could see our loco wait at a distance. At 1928, the loco came close to the train. The loco gave me surprise – I was expecting a Guntakkal WDM2 – The loco turned out to be a Kazipet WDM2! The loco was 17770. I decided to walk back. The rush in GS was heavy while the Sleepers were already full. Most coaches were of the 90s with a few of 2003. The Pantry car was in DQ livery. The Pantry was busy with the staff preparing dinner for the entire train! On Platform #1 was the newly introduced Pune Jodhpur Express. The loco (WCAM1) was ready for departure. Jodhpur left at 1940. Our train finally left at 1950, delayed by 25 minutes. Dinner was served at 2000. The dinner service shocked me!

The dinner – consisting of 2 pieces of Roti, Potato-Palak curry, Rice, Dal, Curd and 2 pieces of Gulab Jamun – was served on a Plastic tray with a clean paper mat. The service was comparable with the one on the Trivandrum Rajdhani!!! The food was tasty, but the quantity was less. The train kept speeding and we finally reached Daund at 2110. The coached remained only 50% occupied even after Pune. I decided to retire for the day. Most berths remained unoccupied. The AC was now cool enough and I dozed of in a lower berth. I woke up at about 0430 in the morning and we had probably crossed Wadi by then. I got up by 0600 and finished all morning chores. We had left Raichur by then.

We stopped at Matmari, a small way side station in Karnataka, for about 5 minutes for want of signal. Andhra Pradesh welcomed the train with a warm sunrise perfectly captured on Tungabhadra River . The train slowly entered into Mantralayam road station (0630). The train is watered at this station. The station is home to a factory which manufactures ‘Pre-Stressed Concrete' (PSC) Sleepers. After watering, the train departed at 0640. At this station, we overtook a long BOXN rake led by Kalyan WDG3A #14559. A Kalyan loco so far from her home? The line ahead was doubled in patches. Our train crossed the Mumbai bound 6352 Nagercoil-Tirupati-Mumbai express hauled by an Erode WDM2 (#18561) somewhere before Adoni. Sometime before reaching Adoni, we crossed the Bangalore-Nanded Link express also. The loco of this link express was Moulali WDM2 #16017 coupled to ‘Dead' WDM3A #17910R of Pune.

Breakfast – consisting of Idli, Medu Vada and Upma – was served at around 0800. As the train neared Guntakkal, I decided to make a dash to the front of the train. I decided to use the vestibule to reach the front. The sleeper coaches were full of activity. One could see people playing cards, reading magazines, discussing anything under the sun and what not! I reached about 3/4 th the length of the train when it entered the station. I got down on the platform, and walked briskly. There were two WDG4s at the station. One was 12060 waiting for clearance to proceed towards Gooty, while the other was 12055 entering Guntakkal from Gooty side with a long BOXC rake. I expected a loco change, which did not happen. Our loco, 17770 from Kazipet, was now preparing for a show-down in the ‘predominantly-single' line from Gooty to Renigunta. Her new masters were already in, and were testing her before starting off! I had to rush back to my coach since the departure time had approached! The train left at 08:18 (23 minutes late). We overtook a very long BOXC rake hauled by triplet locos. The locos were WDM2 #17218 (Guntakkal), WDM3D #11122 (Gooty), and WDM2 #17351 (Guntakkal, leading the trio) – all live and running. We stopped at Pattakottacheru for want of clearance. There was track clearing works going on. We crossed the 6010 Chennai – Mumbai Mail led by WDM3A #18895R from Guntakkal at this station. We entered Gooty at 0848. The train was 25 minutes late by now. My spottings at station were: WDG3A #14578 (Kazipet, coupled to another loco of the same shed), WDM2 #17777 (Guntakkal), WDM2 #17XXX (Pune), WDM3A #14040 & #14043 (Gooty, both inside the shed for maintenance) and WDM3D #11115 (Gooty, also inside the shed). The train left the station at 0850. I spotted another WDM3A (#18889R) from Gooty coupled to a Caboose. I also spotted WDG4 #12046 outside Gooty.

The line ahead of Gooty was doubled upto Rayalacheruvu. The run was uneventful in this section except for the overtake of a WDG4 (#12057) hauled BCNA rake. The train entered Tadipatri at 0947, and left a minute later. At Tadipatri, a BOXC rake hauled by twin WDG3As from Gooty (#13224 & #14967) welcome us in to the station. We overtook a long BOXC rake led by WDG4 12065 shortly after Tadipatri. Kondapuram was reached at 1015. Here we crossed the H.Nizamuddin bound AP Sampark Kranti Express. The loco was a WDM2 from Moulali. Kondapuram to Muddanuru is doubled. The run from Kondapuram to Cudappah was un-eventful. Cudappah welcomed us with a WDG4 (#12013) hauled BOXC rake. The train left Cudappah at 1151. The line from Cudappah towards Nandalur is doubled for about 20-25 kilometres. Lunch – consisting of 2 pieces of Roti, Potato-Mutter curry, Rice, Dal, Curd and 2 pieces of Gulab Jamun – was served shortly after the station.

The entry to Nandalur station was indicated by the sudden appearance of Electric Traction poles!!! We entered Nandalur at 1238, and left at 1240. The station yard had about 5-6 WAG locos! The station also had a WDG4 (12045) which happened to be last one I spotted during the trip. The journey ahead was even more interesting. We reached Razampeta at 1256. Razampeta station had a very long BOXC rake – led by WDG3A #14821 & #14820 from Kazipet – waiting for our train. We left the station about 2 minutes later. The train slowed down while approaching Pullampet. At Pullampet, another BOXC rake – led by WDG3A #14940 & #13068 from Gooty – was waiting for our train. The line beyond Pullampet upto Tirupati is doubled and electrified. Electrification now exists between Nandalur and Renigunta. There were no signs of electrification anywhere between Gooty and Nandalur. Doubling is proceeding at snail's pace.

A while after leaving Pullampet, our train crossed a WAG5 duo led by #23952 from New Katni Junction. The trailing loco was from Arakkonam (dead). We crossed a BOXC rake led by WAG7 #27584 from Erode somewhere before Koduru. We reached Koduru at 1328, delayed exactly by 40 minutes. At this station, a BOXC rake led by WAG7 #27583 & #27420 both from Kazipet was waiting for signal. After Koduru, the train crossed a BOXC rake led by WAG5 #23479 (from Arakkonam), while we overtook another BOXC, led by WAG5 #23735 (from Vijayawada ). The train pulled into Renigunta sharp at 1416, delayed by 6 minutes. At Renigunta, my spottings were: WAP4 #22602 (Arakkonam), WAM4 #21275 (“Barbie”, from Arakkonam) and WAG7 #27054 (from Mughalsarai). I saw the 6012 Chennai-Mumbai express coming in with a WAM4. We left Renigunta at 1430, delayed by 15 minutes. The run from Renigunta and Tirupati was uneventful. I spotted a WAM4 from Vijayawada doing some shunting works at Tirupati. The train entered Tirupati at 1445 (delayed by 5 minutes). Vijayawada WAM4 #21230 was now readying to depart with the Ongole passenger. The train left Tirupati at 1455.

We pulled into Pakala at 1539. The Tirupati bound DMU was waiting for us to stop. The DMU left just minutes after we stopped. The train left the station after a prolonged halt only by 1550. The loco was refueled at this station. There was one YDM4 resting at one corner of the station. We entered Chittoor at 1617. The ‘locked' rake of Venkatadri express (bound to Kacheguda) was waiting at the other platform. The loco – WDM3A #18898R from Guntakkal – was coupled to the rake and was dead. The run from Chittoor to Katpadi was uneventful. The entire Tirupati-Katpadi section is single lined and works for electrification is proceeding at a very slow speed. Only the OHE poles have been erected, and that too only along 25-40% of the route. The train covered the 37 kilometer distance between Chittoor and Katpadi was covered in about 35 minutes. The train entered Katpadi at 1655. The Katpadi-Tirupati DMU was waiting for our train to clear the section.

I rushed to have a look at the loco change. By the time I reached there, the Diesel loco was already disconnected. The loco pilots got down. The ‘new' loco came on the adjoining platform line and proceeded to a loop at the outer of the station. Some time later, a shunting pilot came and took the loco to the outer. It then reversed and entered the adjoining platform line. The ‘new' loco – WAP4 #22340 from Erode – now entered the platform line. The loco inched towards the train. She came close and ‘married' our train! There was a huge crowd to see the ‘coupling ceremony'. I managed to take a photo of the loco being coupled. I rushed back to my coach. The train had reached Katpadi early by 55 minutes. The new loco was coupled and was ready to leave by 1721. The departure time was still 39 minutes away. The Kakinada bound Sheshadri Express pulled into the station by 1730. The starter turned yellow at 1800.

The WAP4 gave a very long toot and the train pulled out. The pickup was outstanding. I was traveling for the very first time in a WAP4 hauled train! The loco joined the main line in no time. The train touched 100kmph in no time. It was scary to stand at the door. I decided to settle inside. At about 1900, our train was sent to the siding of Vinnamangalam station. Two expresses overtook our train at this station, and the entire exercise took about 25 minutes. We pulled into Jolarpettai at about 1940, delayed by 22 minutes. The run from Jolarpettai to Salem was in pitch darkness and there were no noteworthy happenings along the section. Dinner had 2 pieces of Roti, some curry, Rice, Dal, Curd and 2 pieces of Gulab Jamun. I had asked for Vegetable Fried rice instead. The preparation was tasty. We reached Salem at about 2130.There was a DMU in the adjoining line. After Salem , I decided to sleep. I occupied a lower berth and went to sleep.

I had a very deep sleep until the train reached Ottapalam. I remember seeing a very under-lit platform of this station. The time was around 0200. Went back to sleep. I did have a comfortable sleep, but was waken by my mom at around 0500. The train was stationary. That was Ernakulam Town station. I felt the new loco being attached. I went to the toilet, got fresh and finished all morning chores. I decided to reach the door to have a very cool breeze. The weather was cold with occasional showers. The train sped through unfamiliar territories. The train stopped at Tripunithura at 0526, late by 23 minutes. There was a long Freight rake led by a WDM3A from Ernakulam waiting at the station. The platform of the station was too small even for the 17-coaches of our train!!!

The train charged past stations and bridges as the sun was readying to show up. The vestibule door was opened by a pantry vendor. As the train approached Kottayam, I decided to go to the front end of the train. As I walked through the length of the train, I noticed that most sleeper coaches were almost empty by now. I reached S10 in about 10 minutes. The train pulled into Kottayam at about 0615. I rushed to see the loco. The loco was WDM2 #18485 from Erode. The loco was right outside the RPF station!!! But there were no personnel anywhere in sight! I quickly took a photo and rushed back to my coach. The station was crowded with people who alighted from this train! I boarded my coach and decided to be at the door.

The train sped through two tunnels located right inside the city and rushed towards Changanacherry. We crossed Chingavanam station. I was expecting a crossing at this station, and that – unfortunately – did not happen! The loco kept charging through. Soon, the train slowed down as she entered Changanacherry station. At this station, WDM2 #16860 from Ernakulam was waiting for our train with the Kayamkulam – Kottayam passenger in tow. We got down at this station and took a taxi to my Mom's place which is about 20 kms from the station. There ended a marvelous and 38 hour long journey on a route that I had been dreaming since a long time!

I am eager to know how you liked this report! Please send in your comments and suggestions (brick-bats also welcome) to binaiks [at] gmail [dot] com