Rio Grande Scenic Railroad By Jack M. Turner Photos by John C. Turner
Rocky Mountain Exploration
Part 4: Rio Grande Scenic Railroad
By Jack M. Turner
Photos by John C. Turner
The Rio Grande Scenic Railroad was next on our
itinerary and Sunday July 29, 2012 dawned with anticipation. Once
again we made the five minute journey from the Holiday Inn Express to
the Alamosa railway depot which doubles as headquarters for the San
Luis & Rio Grande Railroad, whose passenger service operates as the
Rio Grande Scenic.
As we drove to the Alamosa depot my thoughts turned
back to the 1960s when my childhood was spent in Miami, Florida.
That city was one of America’s winter playgrounds in the days before
large theme parks lured tourists to Orlando and vicinity. Miami
was a wonderful place in the ‘60s for a person who loved passenger
trains as several trains belonging to the Seaboard and Atlantic Coast
Line served the Magic City. While those silver streamliners were
great trains, my attention was captured by the striking City of Miami
which ran every-other- day to Chicago. Its chocolate brown with a
wide orange stripe paint scheme caught my fancy along with the fact
that the train was operated by the Illinois Central Railroad which gave
it an air of uniqueness. My second ever train ride was aboard The
City’s round end club-observation car from downtown Miami to West Palm
Beach over the Florida East Coast Railway in 1961.
Even when the City of Miami was routed over the
Seaboard route between Miami and central Florida due to a labor strike
on the FEC, that train remained my favorite and I planned jaunts to
West Palm on days in which it operated. I continued to head
straight for the club- observation car until that car finally was cut
back to Jacksonville to Chicago only. Fortunately, about this
time a vista dome coach was added and its novelty in south Florida
somewhat made up for the loss of the rear view offered by the
observation car.
Illinois Central timetables of the time showed that
a sister train, the City of New Orleans, also carried a
club-observation car basically identical to the pair of cars that
brought up the rear of the City of Miami. After Amtrak assumed
most of the nation’s passenger service in 1971 the Illinois Central
passenger car fleet was largely passed over and many of the cars met an
unfortunate fate in scrap yards. There was little way to know
which cars had somehow been preserved outside the Amtrak system and,
frankly, with my attention turned to college, the IC fleet faded from
my thoughts.
Then in September 1982 plans were announced for the
inaugural run of the restored Norfolk & Western steam engine # 611
between Roanoke, VA and Norfolk and return then on to Alexandria,
VA. Bringing up the rear would be former Illinois Central
club-observation car “Mardi Gras”, one of two such cars that had
regularly run on the tail of the City of New Orleans a decade
earlier. Plans were made, an upgrade fare paid, and I rode in the
“Mardi Gras” for much of the weekend. The interior of the
beautiful car reminded me of her two sisters, “Bamboo Grove” and
“Paducah” which regularly ran on the end of the City of Miami though
their names had been removed by the 1960s. The exterior of “Mardi
Gras” did not evoke memories of the IC as it had been painted N&W
tuscan red to match the rest of the excursion train fleet. Over
the years I had a few more encounters with “Mardi Gras” including an
Asheville to Hickory, NC excursion in 1987 and a 1992 excursion between
Charlotte and Asheville via Saluda Grade. Several years later the car
was spotted in the yards of the North Carolina Transportation
Museum. In 2011 word came out that the “Mardi Gras” was being
repainted into its IC livery and would operate on the Rio Grande Scenic
Railroad in southern Colorado. This was a major factor that lured
me to plan a visit to the Rio Grande Scenic in summer 2012.
“Mardi Gras” is painted in Norfolk & Western colors in this late 2006 scene
Rio Grande Scenic inaugurated excursion train
service between Alamosa and La Veta, Colorado in 2006. An
impressive array of itineraries is today offered by the Rio Grande
Scenic as trains originate from both ends of the line in the morning
and meet near the mid-point at Fir where many passengers detrain to
attend a concert at open air concert grounds in a beautiful mountain
setting. The train that originated in Alamosa then continues to
La Veta where passengers have over an hour to shop, dine, or simply
enjoy the town before heading back to Alamosa with a stop at Fir to
pick up the concert goers. Meanwhile, the train that originated
in La Veta remains at Fir until after the concert then returns its
passengers to La Veta. Thanks to this schedule coordination it
also is possible to ride the morning train from La Veta to Fir then
transfer to the train from Alamosa for a quicker return to La Veta.
Our train departs Alamosa promptly at 9:30am and
immediately passes the SLRG shops where several vintage passenger cars
are under restoration. Soon we cross the Rio Grande River and
head eastward into the arid scrub country that surrounds Alamosa.
We are seated in the rear part of the “Mardi Gras” and I feel a sense
of déjà vu since I rode this car in Virginia and North Carolina almost
three decades earlier. There also is a sense of having gone home
again as this car is very similar to the club-observation cars on my
beloved City of Miami so long ago. Ironically one of those very
cars, the “Paducah” stands in the SLRG shop under renovation.
The Rio Grande Scenic train prepares for its journey to La Veta
Former Illinois Central observation-club car “Mardi Gras” at Alamosa
Rio Grande Scenic general manager Matt Abbey aboard the “Mardi Gras”
Departing Alamosa
The shops where Pullman Rail Journeys equipment is under restoration
The mood aboard the “Mardi Gras” is festive as the
club car layout with comfortable inward facing seats invites
conversation. We learn that the folks seated opposite us hail
from Arizona and that another couple came from New Mexico. This
is an annual journey for both as they enjoy the scenery and atmosphere
of this train. At mid-car the bar is tended by “Robin” a pleasant
college student who finds her job aboard this train as well as in the
company’s reservations office a perfect complement to her studies at
Adams State University in Alamosa.
She replenishes trays of tasty Mardi Gras cake and
other munchies on the bar which stands below a colorful New Orleans
style awning. Opposite the bar a large mirror with the words
“Mardi Gras” etched into the glass harkens back to the days when the
Illinois Central decorated its train cars to match the route they
served. The forward end of the “Mardi Gras” contains a mixture of
table seating and seats for two just as it did during its IC
service. It is here that we find Ed Ellis, President of Iowa
Pacific Holdings which owns the Rio Grande Scenic and various other
excursion train lines and David Duncan, Vice President of the Pullman
Rail Journeys which inaugurated first class service between Chicago and
New Orleans beginning in Fall
2012.
The rear of the “Mardi Gras” was our favorite hangout
The forward end of “Mardi Gras”
Looking from the front toward the center of “Mardi Gras”
The bar and mid-car mirror inside the “Mardi Gras”
A common theme among much of the refurbished
passenger fleet of the Rio Grande Scenic and its sister tourist lines
owned under the Iowa Pacific umbrella as well as the Pullman Rail
Journeys company is the use of the chocolate brown and orange paint
scheme. We learn that Mr. Ellis also had a fondness for all
things Illinois Central during his youth in Paducah, KY. While he
could not use the paint job during his time at Amtrak, Mr. Ellis has
splashed the eye-catching colors on his vintage railcars.
The 61 mile journey to La Veta is led by 2-8-0 steam
locomotive # 18, built in 1910 by Alco for the Lake Superior
& Ishpeming. The oil burning locomotive was operated in
recent years by the Grand Canyon Railway until its purchase for use on
the Rio Grande Scenic. Behind the engine and its tender is former
Southern Railway open excursion car 1056 “Lookout Mountain”, former
Southern open window coach 1068, ex-New York Central dining car 448,
ex-Southern open window coach 1067, and the “Mardi Gras”.
An hour out of Alamosa we reach Fort Garland where a
brief stop is made. As will be the case on our late afternoon
return, there are a few photographers out to record the passage of the
train. 14,365 foot tall Blanca Peak stands off to the left and
many of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains loom ahead. The rail line
has climbed approximately 400 feet since Alamosa as Fort Garland stands
at 7,936 feet. By 11:20am the tracks are assaulting a 2 1/2% grade
as they travel between mountains separated by scenic valleys.
Mountain scenery dominates the view from observation car windows and it
is interesting to look out the rear window as the track winds and
climbs dramatically. Aspens, Douglas firs, and junipers fill the
mountainsides and one can only imagine the colorful scene that must
await riders on this train during the autumn. Shortly a 12º curve
around Mule Shoe Loop carries the train to a 60 foot elevation
gain. The tracks are but 100 feet apart as we look down at the
rails we traversed just a couple of moments earlier.
The rear view from the observation car passing through a cut
The twisting rail line approaching La Veta Pass
Passengers socialize in the “Mardi Gras”. Ed Ellis, President of
Iowa Pacific Holdings, and David Duncan, VP of Pullman Railway
Journeys (holding coffee cups) converse while TrainWeb
photographer John Turner talks with Mrs. Ellis (at left side of
photo). (Photo by Jack M. Turner)
The steep grade is evident as the train works its way uphill to Fir
This view from
the side of the club car shows new Mule Shoe Loop and the line we
traversed just moments earlier. The older line shown in the
foreground is part of the original Mule Shoe Loop.
Another view of Mule Shoe Loop
Just beyond the loop the train pulls to a stop at
Fir at 11:40am. About half of the passengers detrain and make a
very short walk to the concert site where Roy Rivers, a John Denver
tribute artist will perform many of the legendary singer’s songs.
The concert site is attractive and is set with a beautiful mountain
backdrop. There is a recently constructed depot at Fir and a
second track where the diesel-hauled train from La Veta is parked
during the concert. Its consist includes a pair of bilevel
commuter coaches and flat end ex-IC observation car “Calumet
Club”. The elevation at Fir is 9,242 feet and it takes a few deep
breaths to acclimate to the altitude.
The Alamosa to La Veta train pauses at Fir
The morning La Veta to Fir train (left) and the Alamosa to La Veta train (right) meet at Fir
Passengers detrain at Fir to attend an open air concert
The concert site at Fir
“Mardi Gras” (left) at “Calumet Club” at Fir. The flat end
observation car “Calumet Club” is on the rear of the train that arrived
from La Veta.
“Calumet Club”
An open coach from our train stands next to the “Calumet Club”
Passengers mill about next to the “Mardi Gras” at Fir
New York Central dining car # 448
The view of Mule Shoe Loop from the end of the platform at Fir
The stop at Fir takes just 15 minutes then the
railway embarks upon a 3% grade that leads along the edge of
mountainsides as we travel downhill toward La Veta. The tracks
constantly wind around curves as there is a 2,200 foot drop in
elevation in the 17 miles to La Veta. A short tunnel follows at
12:15pm then an announcement is made to keep an eye out on the right
hand side as a large bear was spotted from the westbound train from La
Veta awhile earlier. The huge bear was still lumbering around a
few feet from the tracks to the delight of passengers and crew
alike. At this point we are seated in the dining car enjoying
cheeseburgers along with the spectacular vistas. As the train
winds along a shelf on the side of a mountain we note that the view of
a broad valley outside the window across the aisle gives the appearance
of looking out of a low flying airplane. The thought crosses my
mind that it doesn’t get much better than traveling over a mountain
railroad seated in an Illinois Central observation car and eating in a
New York Central diner, on a train hauled by a steam engine.
The La Veta-Fir train
A rock cut east of Fir
Continuing eastward through the Sangre de Cristo range
A huge bear spotted east of Fir
The dining car near the end of lunch service
The author enjoys lunchtime in New York Central diner 448
The view across the dining car aisle resembles the view from a low flying airplane
Mountain views continue to dominate approaching La Veta
We pull into La Veta at 12:59pm and everyone
detrains and heads off to browse in the town’s curio shops, grab lunch
at one of its eateries, or just relax in the park located near the
railway. Meanwhile # 18 is uncoupled and backs down one leg of a
wye where it will be serviced before pulling down the other leg of the
wye and coupling up to what had been the rear of the eastbound
train. Thus for the westward run, # 18 would be coupled to the
backward running “Mardi Gras”. This would leave the open air
“Lookout Mountain” with its open platform properly pointed on the rear
of the train for the return to Alamosa.
“Mardi Gras” wears Illinois Central colors proudly at La Veta, Colorado
Rear view of “Mardi Gras” during the layover in La Veta
This “City of New Orleans” tail sign matches the original
The locomotive is turned and serviced on a wye seen beyond the “Mardi Gras”
The westbound climb toward La Veta Pass begins at
2:15pm and we enjoy the unobstructed view from the rear platform of the
“Lookout Mountain”. The 3% grade is especially impressive from
this vantage point and the sound of the steam engine working hard is
clearly audible. We pull into Fir at 3:25pm and note that the
westbound climb took only 5 minutes more than the downhill descent had
taken. The concert goers climb back aboard and we steam west
after the 20 minute stop. Immediately the train glides around
Mule Shoe Loop then passes a deer standing in the woods a hundred yards
from the tracks.
The westbound climb begins just west of La Veta
Passengers enjoy the views from ex-Southern Railway excursion car “Lookout Mountain”
John enjoys the seats in the forward end of “Lookout Mountain”
The return trip provides many views of the train rounding curves
The oil burning locomotive pulls the train into a tunnel
Engine # 18 heads the westbound as it meets the eastbound and “Calumet Club”
We have returned to the “Mardi Gras” and the topics
of conversation are the concert experience and the sights some of us
saw along the journey to La Veta. Singer Roy Rivers joins us and
regales everyone with a few stories from his life’s journey then he
breaks out his guitar for an impromptu concert. He starts with
“City of New Orleans” which certainly is appropriate since we are
riding an authentic observation car from that train’s heyday.
Several John Denver hits such as “Rocky Mountain High”, “Calypso”, and
“Country Roads” follow and once more we are transported to an earlier
era when the observation-club car was the gathering place on American
streamliners. The socializing continues with ample conversation
and laughter then Robin delivers a birthday cake to the table where one
of the passengers is seated. Fellow passengers break into a
rendition of “Happy Birthday” led by the outgoing Roy Rivers. The
relaxed atmosphere aboard the “Mardi Gras” makes the return trip seem
to pass quickly and we are sorry to see it end when we pull into
Alamosa at 5:59pm.
Inside the “Mardi Gras” the bar and etched glass mirror give this car an elegant look
Roy Rivers, a John Denver tribute artist, entertains passengers
Singer Roy Rivers
The route of the Rio Grande Scenic between Alamosa
and La Veta was last served by regularly scheduled passenger service in
1951. The December 1951 Official Guide of the Railways shows
Denver & Rio Grande Western train # 15 departing Pueblo at 12:50pm
and running south to Walsenburg where it turned westward. The
stops in La Veta at 2:50pm and Fir at 3:49pm were very similar to
today’s westbound schedule as was its 5:30pm arrival in Alamosa.
The eastbound run left Alamosa at 7:00am, a bit early for today’s
successful tourist operation. Connecting service to and from
Denver was available in 1951 via transfer at Pueblo.
Today the San Luis & Rio Grande operates
tri-weekly freight service between Alamosa and Walsenburg (where it
interchanges with Union Pacific) in addition to the passenger train to
La Veta. Lava rock used for landscaping is the main commodity
transported in spring and fall while potatoes are carried from late
fall to the holidays. The San Luis & Rio Grande has recently
acquired several former Amtrak refrigerator cars for hauling potatoes
grown in the San Luis Valley. Freight service also operates
tri-weekly westward past Monte Vista to Sugar Jct. (where it
interchanges with the San Luis Central) and occasional passenger trips
are run to Monte Vista. Freight and passenger trains
operate south between Alamosa and Antonito where passengers can connect
with the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad. Additionally, the
railroad operates impressive shop facilities in Alamosa where Pullman
Rail Journeys equipment currently is undergoing restoration.
A Rio Grande Scenic F unit parked in the Alamosa yards
Forward view from the coach vestibule on the trip from Antonito to Alamosa
Giant sand dunes seen from the Rio Grande Scenic shuttle train from Antonito to Alamosa
Visits to Alamosa can easily be coordinated with rides on
other Colorado excursion trains such as the Royal Gorge train, the
Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad, and the Durango & Silverton
narrow gauge train. Nearby Great Sand Dunes National Park is a
worthwhile destination while in Alamosa and there are scenic drives in
all directions from this city. Numerous hotels are available in
Alamosa with the Holiday Inn Express our family favorite. Rio
Grande Scenic operations vary by season thus it is wise to check their
schedules before booking a trip to the area.
