North
Carolina's Blue Ridge Mountains have been a favorite travel destination
for my family
since my youth. The cool mountain
air beckons us there during summers in which a major train trip is not
part of
the equation. Of course, like any
diehard railfans, we find a way to mix in some trains with our
automobile
travels.
Our
first stop, Macon, Georgia provides a chance to reconnect with family
friends
who date all the way back to my college days. After
a cookout at their lovely home we take in a minor
league baseball game between the Macon Music and Bradenton Juice. This is independent level minor league
ball and we surmise that a strong college team like Florida State or
Georgia
Tech would give these teams fits.
The ball park is an old facility and sports a sign noting that
Georgia
Tech played its first varsity baseball game here in the early 1900s. The night is spent at the brand new
Hilton Garden Inn located at the edge of the Mercer University campus
and we
are very pleased by the ambience and freshness of everything in the
hotel. The
next morning we poke around downtown Macon for awhile and note the maze
of rail
lines that converge in the central business district.
The old railway station survives today for non-rail use but
harkens back to a day when Central of Georgia and Southern Railway
passenger
trains called on Macon on their journeys across the Peach State.
Our
next stop is in Greenville, South Carolina where we spend the night at
the
Hyatt Hotel located in the center of the city. A
pleasant walk down the main street takes us to dinner at a
favorite southern restaurant chain, Sticky Fingers, which serves up
some of the
best ribs found anywhere. The
downtown is bustling on this Saturday night and the area seems
prosperous as
restaurants and popular stores welcome patrons. After
dinner we make our way to West End Field, home of the
Greenville Drive baseball team www.greenvilledrive.com a member of the Class A South Atlantic
League. The league logo features
the abbreviation "SAL" which to this railfan means "Seaboard Air
Line". West End Field is just
over a year old and sports the exact dimensions of Fenway Park, home of
the
Drive's parent team, the Boston Red Sox.
There even is a miniature green monster in left field which
stands in
front of a row of luxury condominiums.
On this night the Drive beat the Charleston River Dogs, a
Yankees
affiliate. The stadium is located
on the western fringe of downtown, convenient to our hotel. Following the game we navigate our way
to the Amtrak station to pick up tickets for a train ride we have
scheduled for
the following week. The station is
located adjacent to a rail yard and is hard to find as an Amtrak sign
seems to
point down a street that leads to an undesirable area and another sign
outside
the station grounds gives the impression that this is a no trespassing
area
that would invite the ire of railroad police.
The
following morning we make our way uphill to Asheville, North Carolina
then
enter the Blue Ridge Parkway for the spectacular drive to Boone, NC. It is a chilly late July day and the
fog is thick which obscures much of the view. There
is no apparent activity down below as we pause at the
overlook over The Loops where one can often hear and catch glimpses of
CSX coal
trains working their way through the serpentine route along former
Clinchfield
tracks. About an hour later we are
in Boone for a few days of relaxation.
We
spend our time doing what we always do in the mountains: taking scenic
drives,
walking along rippling streams, having a picnic along Price Lake,
visiting Mast General Store, enjoying good home cooking at Dan'l Boone
Inn, people
watching
at Blowing Rock Park, and riding Tweetsie Railroad.
Our home for these few days is the Holiday Inn Express in
Boone www.expressboone.com which
offers a
large room that is quiet and that provides a view of the surrounding
mountains. The staff at this hotel
are extremely friendly which is a great way to start and end the day. The lobby has a ski lodge feel to it
that is appropriate for the area since several winter ski resorts are
in close
proximity. For breakfast we
consume the delicious hot cinnamon buns trademarked by Holiday Inn
Express.
The
Boone Fork stream is a favorite setting for picnics and hiking.
|
Price Lake along the Blue Ridge Parkway. |
Linn Cove
Viaduct is a modern engineering marvel as it hangs over the side of
Grandfather Mountain on the Blue Ridge Parkway.
|
Sunset at Blowing Rock Park. |
Blowing Rock, NC is the author's idea of Mayberry. |
After grabbing a barbecue sandwich and watching a show at one of Tweetsie's pavillions, we take a second ride on one of Tweetsie's open air coach cars then my son John and I are invited to ride aboard the 190 as she makes another circuit of the narrow gauge line. Aside from the thrill of riding in an authentic working steam locomotive, the cab offers a great view of the right-of-way as the train crosses 225 foot Dead Horse trestle, tackles a 5% grade through a rocky cut, and passes through rhododendron rich woods. As we stroll through the parking lot after our third ride of the day, the mournful cry of the whistle reminds us that Tweetsie almost didn't live to see the summer of 2007 due to land lease issues. Thankfully, the park survived the challenge for the moment and hopefully will be able to continue delighting visitors for years to come. Check www.tweetsie.com for the park's operating hours.
Following our week in the mountains, we make our way southeast to Charlotte to catch Amtrak train # 74 the Piedmont. The Charlotte station is open 24 hours a day and is conveniently located on the city's east side opposite Norfolk Southern's freight yard. Ample parking allows us to leave our van overnight without worry. A sizeable crowd of about 80 people awaits departure and the train eventually runs full for much of the journey. After the train moves from its stub end storage track to the platform track, passengers are invited to board at 5:05pm. The four car consist is made up of former heritage fleet coaches with wide windows and new, well-padded seats plus a former Amtrak pub-lounge car; all of these are now owned by the State of North Carolina. Leading the charge is North Carolina DOT Geep 1792 decked out in the state's color scheme.
Charlotte, NC Amtrak station. |
The Piedmont
waits between runs on a stub track with the Charlotte skyline to the
rear
|
The Piedmont eases out of the station at 5:30pm and passengers are invited to the lounge car for a complimentary snack. They are admonished to take only one snack item and one soft drink per person and most seem to adhere to the rules. The pub-lounge cars such as this one started life as US Army hospital cars and eventually were converted to lounge cars for Amtrak's Florida trains and the Montrealer. On the latter the cars were called Le Pub while the Florida service warranted a piano intended to liven up the atmosphere. In Piedmont service car 400202 Albemarle Sound retains the walk through snack line and the table and fixed chair arrangement of its Amtrak years. There is no attendant today and the one drawback of this train is the lack of arrangements to purchase additional food during the northbound dinner time trip and southbound breakfast run.
An interior
shot of the pub-lounge car used on the Piedmont.
|
A volunteer car
host wipes down the food lockers in the pub lounge car
|
Dispatching
on the busy Norfolk Southern Washington to New Orleans main line is
smooth and
we meet two southbound freights on the same siding at Haydock. Approximately 15 passengers board at
Kannapolis and word has it that the Friday afternoon train is typically
filled
as it is today. Another dozen
riders climb aboard at the large Salisbury station and moments later we
roll
past the old Spencer Shops and the North Carolina Transportation Museum
(see http://trainweb.org/vrt/AutoTrain/
for information about this railfan
friendly facility). A northbound NS
garbage train is
overtaken as we approach our stop in High Point; it then passes us only
to
again be overtaken east of that city.
Heavy rain and hail are pelting the train and the passenger
seated
beside me states that he is glad he isn't driving through this mess. His work schedule has been tailored
around the Piedmont schedule
so that he
can take the morning train from
his home in Burlington to Kannapolis, walk to work, then catch the
evening
train home. Multi-ride tickets are
available for such passengers who commute to work or college. The Piedmont does a fair share of college business as it
serves the
cities where many universities are located including Duke University,
North
Carolina State, North Carolina Central, Elon, UNC Greensboro, High
Point, and
UNC Charlotte.
Our
stop in Greensboro provides a look at an interesting intermodal station
serving
local busses and Amtrak. The line
to Raleigh which we will follow braches off from the mainline to
Washington
here and there are separate platforms for the Crescent and the Piedmont/Carolinian
routes. A large number of passengers detrain at the
next stop,
Burlington, as the weather clears to reveal a pleasant summer evening. A few minutes later we pass Amtrak's
southbound Carolinian
from New York which is running 105 minutes late.
Several
deer are spotted as we pass through woodlands west of Durham and soon
the top
of the Duke University Chapel briefly comes into view.
The Duke East Campus appears on the
left side as we prepare for the Durham station stop.
To the south we can see Durham Bulls Athletic Park, the
spiffy home of the AAA Durham Bulls baseball team.
There is a game in progress tonight which reminds of our
visit the prior summer when we attended a Bulls game.
The final 20 minutes of our trip pass quickly and we detrain
at the modern brick station in Cary.
The courtesy van from our hotel awaits and moments later we are
relaxing
in our suite at the Homewood Suites in Cary. The
hotel is located in a charming section of this Raleigh
suburb. The hotel grounds are
reached by crossing a covered bridge and passing through thick woods
that look
more like New England than a capital city suburb.
The
6:00am wakeup call comes much too quickly the following morning but is
necessary as we have a train to catch.
The hotel's complimentary breakfast is perfect for a "grab and
go" situation and we are grateful the hotel's houseman is ready to
shuttle
us to the depot. The Cary station
is an interesting facility that was constructed a few years ago. It stands between the former Seaboard
line to Florida and the ex-Southern Railway branch to Greensboro which
diverges
just north of the station. The
neat brick station has a small waiting room which is open from 4am to
1am and
which has an unstaffed ticket office.
Interestingly, the station building also houses a North Carolina
Department of Motor Vehicles office where drivers licenses and license
tags can
be secured.
The modern
Cary, NC station serves passengers on two routes as seen on August 4,
2007
|
A statue
outside the Cary station honors railway engineers.
|
Directional
signs point passengers to platforms serving two separate routes at Cary.
|
The southbound
Piedmont arrives in Cary early on August 4, 2007.
|
Salisbury, NC station. |
Kannapolis, NC station. |
We expected this to be a light travel day but approximately 50 passengers are primed to board on this Saturday morning. A few others started their trips at the Piedmont's origin in Raleigh. A loud speaker on the station grounds advises that the northbound Silver Star is expected at 8:15am; it will miss its connection as our Piedmont will be long gone at 7:30. Our departure is held up a couple of moments by the large crowd and the loading of one passenger's bicycle into the rear coach.
The
return journey proceeds smoothly until we reach Kannapolis then slow
running
pushes us behind schedule. A 40
minute delay ensues and we wonder where the northbound Carolinian is since it started its run in
Charlotte
which is only 20 minutes ahead.
Finally Amtrak # 80 eases past and we soon learn that it had
struck a
trespasser who had wandered onto the tracks. The
resulting cleanup and investigation delayed the Carolinian
3 1/2 hours; fortunately we had lost
far less as we arrived in Charlotte
at 11:40am, a bit over one hour late.
Despite
the delay we were able to easily drive to the north side of Atlanta for
the
night before completing the trip home the following day.
This had been a nice summer getaway
with some train activity thrown in for good measure.
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