TO PORTLAND AND CHICAGO BY RAIL, 6/10/08
TO 6/17/08
by Fred Dunn
This journal
describes my
trip from LA to Portland on the Coast Starlight, and from Portland to
Chicago
on the Empire Builder.
A few years ago, my
wife and
I vacationed at Glacier Park, and we stayed in Whitefish, MT, having
flown into
Kalispell, MT, and rented a car.
The Eastbound Empire Builder stopped at Whitefish in the
morning, and
the Westbound train stopped there in the evening. I
was there at the station most mornings and evenings to see
the train. We also drove to Essex,
MT (Isaac Walton Inn), and East Glacier, other stops on the Empire
Builder
route. The beauty of the scenery,
and the fact that this was one of the Amtrak cross county trains that I
had not
ridden, made me decide that I needed to ride this train.
Shortly after
making this
reservation, I attended Fullerton Railroad Days, where Amtrak had
significant
representation. Here I learned
that the date for the upgraded Starlight service had been delayed until
June
10. Talking to various Amtrak
personnel manning the Amtrak equipment at Railroad Days, I was told
that:
The landslide in
Oregon
(necessitating busing) will not be repaired by my travel date.
The landslide in
Oregon has
been repaired and busing is not required on my travel date.
The Parlor cars
will not be
available on my travel date.
The Parlor cars
will be
available on my travel date.
P42 Genesis engines
113, 118, 120
Baggage car
1431
Transition Sleeper
39005
Sleeper
32094
(Montana), 32078 (Florida), 32118 (Wyoming)
Pacific Parlor Car
39973
Diner
38055
Lounge
33042
Coach
34028,
34510, 34064, 34061
On the platform,
adjacent to
the sleeping cars, signs were posted giving the number of the car,
presumably
to help people find their accommodations.
I did not notice any similar signs for the coach cars. Early boarding began about 9:05 a.m.
for the Starlight passengers off of the Surfliner.
Coast Starlight at LAUPT |
Platform sign showing car number |
A number of Amtrak
managers
were seen on the platform and walking through the train.
I talked to Mike Dwyer of Amtrak, who I
had met previously in Portland for the launching of the upgraded Empire
Builder
service on Aug. 21, 2005. (The
report can be viewed on my web site: www.trainweb.org/dunn)
Pacific Parlor Car Dining Set-Up
|
My daughter Lisa,
who lives
in Santa Barbara, had called me while I was on the Surfliner, on my way
to
LAUPT to tell me that she just saw on the news that Santa Barbara was
having
festivities at the train station to celebrate the start of the upgraded
service. When we got there, there
were about 10 minutes of speeches, followed by the mayor "christening"
the
train with a bottle of champagne.
Santa Barbara Mayor speaking. |
Brian Rosenwald speaking |
Mayor with bottle of Champagne |
The christening complete |
We left Santa
Barbara at
12:59 p.m., only 11 minutes behind schedule. Most
of the visitors (travel agents, etc.) got off in Santa
Barbara, although a few more got on in Santa Barbara and were riding to
San
Luis Obispo. Traveling along the
coast, we passed Vandenburg, and then headed inland, arriving in San
Luis
Obispo at 3:40 p.m.
Along the coast |
Vandenberg |
In SLO, I took a
picture of
the Coast Starlight drumhead that was on the rear of the train when we
left
LAUPT, but was covered up (see previous picture at LAUPT).
Somewhere between LA and SLO it had
been uncovered.
Coast Starlight
drumhead at end of train
|
Departure from SLO
was
delayed waiting for Southbound #11 to enter the station, which it
finally did
at 4:05 p.m. Our train departed
immediately thereafter. Upon
leaving SLO, the wine tasting was begun in the Parlor Car.
The wine tasting on the upgraded
service differs somewhat from the wine tasting of the past. In the past, it was complimentary to
sleeper passengers, and was not available to coach passengers. The conduct of the wine tasting varied
depending on which Parlor Car attendant was running it, and the amount
of wine received
by the passengers varied accordingly.
The cheese and crackers were put out on trays, for the
passengers to
take as they choose. On the
upgraded service, there is a charge of $5.00 for the wine tasting, and
they
admit up to 40 wine tasters. They
offer the wine tasting to the sleeper passengers first, but if
insufficient
sleeper passengers are interested, they offer the remaining seats to
coach
passengers. This is not only a
source of revenue, but is also way to acquaint coach passengers with
sleeper
amenities, so that maybe next time they will upgrade.
Brian Rosenwald ran the wine tasting on our train.
He had four wines, 2 white and 2 red,
and everyone was given a 1½ oz sample of each.
The amount was controlled by spigots in the wine bottles
which poured out a measured amount.
Instead of taking cheese and crackers from trays, each wine
taster was
given a plate with chunks of cheese, and a couple of cellophane
packages of
crackers. My impression is that
the old method of letting the passengers take the cheese and crackers
from
trays was better, although it did have the disadvantage of having
people
walking around during the tasting.
One definite
improvement over
the old wine tasting is that after each wine is sampled, the attendant
comes by
with a pitcher of water and rinses out your glass for the next sample. The previous approach was just to pour
the next wine into the remains of the previous wine tasted. I asked Brian if he was going to try to
get all the Parlor Car attendants to adhere to the new format and he
said that
he would like them all to follow some basic guidelines, but would also
like to
give them some room to personalize their service.
While the sky had
been
overcast for most of the morning, the sun was out by the time we left
SLO, and
apparently the air conditioning in the Parlor Car was not functioning
at
100%. By the end of the wine
tasting, the car was getting uncomfortably warm, which made me glad
that I had
taken a dinner reservation in the dining car. I
went to the diner planning on choosing fish for dinner,
but I found out that the fish of the day was trout, of which I am not
particularly fond, so I chose the flat iron steak entrée instead. It came with mashed potatoes and
vegetables, and was very good. I
sat with a young couple from Emeryville who had taken train #11 from
Emeryville
to Paso Robles in the morning, and were returning home on our train
after
having had two hours to explore Paso Robles.
We arrived in San
Jose at
9:07 and departed at 9:16 p.m., 37 minutes behind schedule. I decided to call it a day, and went to
bed about 9:40.
San Jose Station
|