Midwest Rail Rangers @ Freedom Riders National Monument, Alabama
Amtrak's Crescent to Freedom Riders National Monument
A TrainWeb.com Article by the
Midwest Rail Rangers, a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization presenting
onboard educational programs on the South Shore Line and private rail
excursions across the Midwest
Did you know that you can easily
visit two of our country’s newest National Park Service units by riding
Amtrak’s Crescent train through Alabama? Before leaving
office in 2017, then-President Barack Obama designated two sites in
Northern Alabama as brand new national monuments, including the Freedom
Riders National Monument in Anniston and the Birmingham Civil Rights
National Monument in Downtown Birmingham. Besides being important sites
that share the story of the American Civil Rights Movement of the
1960’s, these parks also have something else in common. They are both
located in cities that are passenger stops on the Crescent – a popular
passenger train line connecting New Orleans, Atlanta, Washington, D.C.,
and New York City. Why drive if you don’t have to? The train makes
visiting these parks easy, because both sites are with-in walking
distance of the depots for most folks.
Robert and Kandace Tabern, Board Members of the Midwest Rail Rangers, enjoy their ride on Amtrak's Crescent to Anniston, AL
Walking map from Anniston Amtrak Station to Freedom Riders National Monument; it is about a 20 minute walk for most people
This TrainWeb article will focus on our visit to the Freedom
Riders National Monument in Anniston. Our next TrainWeb article (set
for release in late April or early May 2019) will focus on the
Birmingham Civil Rights National Monument in Birmingham.
First, it is important to know a little bit of background on the
site. In 1961, a small interracial band of “Freedom Riders” challenged
discriminatory laws requiring separation of the races in interstate
travel. They were attacked by white segregationists, who firebombed the
bus. Images of the attack appeared in hundreds of newspapers, shocking
the American public and spurring the Federal Government to issue
regulations banning segregation in interstate travel. Through the media
the nation and the world witnessed the violence. Images, like that of a
firebombed bus burning outside Anniston, shocked the American public
and created political pressure, which forced the Federal Government to
take steps to ban segregation in interstate bus travel.
Although only thirteen Freedom Riders started the journey, they
inspired hundreds of others to join their cause. In the end, there were
over four hundred Freedom Riders. They succeeded in pressing the
federal government to act. On May 29, 1961, Attorney General Kennedy
petitioned the Interstate Commerce Commission to issue regulations
banning segregation, and the ICC subsequently decreed that by November
1, 1961, bus carriers and terminals serving interstate travel had to be
integrated. The Freedom Rides and Freedom Riders made substantial gains
in the fight for equal access to public accommodations. Federal orders
to remove Jim Crow signs on interstate facilities did not change social
mores or political institutions overnight, but the Freedom Riders
nonetheless struck a powerful blow to racial segregation.
We got to tour the Freedom Riders National Monument during the
last weekend of January 2019. Our hosts included Toby Bennington,
Anniston’s Planning and Development Services Director; he also
represents Alabama on the Southern High-Speed Rail Commission. We were
also joined by Pete Conroy, co-chair of the Freedom Riders Park
Committee and the Director of Jacksonville State University’s
Environmental Policy and Information Center. Pete may be the best known
for his interest in public lands, including the designation of the
nearby Little River Canyon National Preserve as a National Park Service
unit in 1992.
The exterior of Anniston's former Greyhound Station is the focal point of the new Freedom Riders National Monument
Pete Conroy opens the former Anniston Greyhound Station for the Midwest Rail Rangers; it usually closed to the public
Pete points out the original door
located toward the rear of the former Greyhound Station; this would
have been used by "Freedom Riders"
Midwest Rail Rangers President Robert Tabern (center) poses with Pete Conroy (left) and Toby Bennington (right)
Midwest Rail Rangers Board Members Robert & Kandace Tabern pose with the City of Anniston's Toby Bennington
Our visit began at the former Greyhound bus depot (at 1031 Gurnee
Avenue in Anniston). As it turns out, we were the very first public
visitors to the Freedom Riders National Monument in 2019; that is
because the park had been closed for about six weeks (in late 2018 and
early 2019) during the extended federal government shutdown. For a long
time, it looked like our visit and this article were not even going to
be possible… but the stalemate in Washington broke just 24 hours before
our arrival in Anniston… and we were given the ‘green light’ to proceed
with our visit. We would like to thank Acting Park Superintendent
Reginald Peoples for his assistance with this article, too. He was not
able to be present due to re-opening duties at the NPS Regional Office
in Atlanta. Upon entry to the old Greyhound Station, Pete and Toby
removed signs from the front door indicating the park would be closed
pending the end of the shutdown.
Today the wall of the building adjacent to the former depot
features a mural and educational panels describing the incident; a
similar mural has been installed adjacent to the former Trailways
station where the other Freedom Riders arrived in 1961 The former
Greyhound station was a sign shop… then later owned by the City of
Anniston, prior to its donation to the United States government.
A mural outside of the former Anniston Greyhound Station has informative panels about the "Freedom Riders"
Someone burned this sign announcing the creation of Freedom Riders Park
This location will be the National Park Service Visitor Center for Freedom Riders National Monument in the years ahead.
After sitting down for some coffee in the old Greyhound Depot,
both Toby and Pete explained that the designation of the national
monument followed years of hard work… on both of their parts and that
of many of their fellow colleagues. The process rolled into high gear
after a visit by Interior Secretary Sally Jewell and National Park
Service Director Jonathan Jarvis in October 2016. The designation of
the National Monument was hailed by local leaders in Anniston and
Calhoun County, who had actively campaigned for the monument's
creation. Others who supported its establishment included Senator
Richard Shelby Representative Mike Rogers, who had introduced a bill to
designate Freedom Riders National Historical Park in July 2016 and
governor Robert J. Bentley. A dedication ceremony took place on May 13,
2017, in downtown Anniston, on the day before the 56th anniversary of
the incident; some members of the audience had traveled from as far
away as Denmark. Former Freedom Rider Hank Thomas, the last living
survivor of the bus-burning incident, delivered a speech.
Towards the end of our time at the former Greyhound Station, Toby
and Pete played an audio recording for us of Thomas’ account of what it
was like to be on a bus that was set on fire. All we can say is that we
have been to 403 of the 419 National Park Service sites --- and only
have been drawn to tears twice. One was at the Flight 93 National
Memorial in Pennsylvania… and the second one occurred here at the
Freedom Riders National Memorial listening to the audio recording of
what Thomas had to say.
Various photos of the interior of Anniston's former Greyhound Station
Robert and Kandace Tabern (right and center) pose for a photo with Pete Conroy outside of the former Anniston Greyhound Station
It should be noted that the Greyhound Station is in need of much
repair… and was only opened to us for the purposes of writing this
article. It may be several years before it is fully renovated and
opened to the public on a regular basis. An interim visitors' center,
including a station where visitors may procure a National Parks
passport stamp, has been established in the reception area of Anniston
City Hall. You should plan your visit on a weekday, as the City Hall is
not open on Saturdays or Sundays. Of course, you can view the
exterior of the former Greyhound Station anytime you want – and there
are information panels and signs.
After about an hour, we parted ways with Pete and Toby took us to
the second site incorporated into the new national monument --- that of
the bus burning, located outside of Anniston along Old Birmingham
Highway/State Route 202 some six miles away. It was at this spot that
the bus broke down because of its flat tires. The segregationist mob,
which had followed it from the bus depot, continued its assault,
throwing "a bundle of flaming rags into the bus that exploded seconds
later" which set the vehicle ablaze. The mob attacked the passengers as
they tried to flee. Freelance photographer Joseph "Little Joe"
Postiglione photographed the bus as it burned; the resulting image has
become an icon of the civil rights movement An Alabama Historical
Marker, erected in 2007 under the auspices of the Theta Tau Chapter of
Omega Psi Phi Fraternity. marks the site of the bus burning.
The second part of the Freedom Riders National Monument is the "bus burning site" located about six miles west of Anniston.
It was announced in 2010 that five acres of land surrounding the
site of the bus burning had been donated to Calhoun County for the
development of a memorial park; initial plans called for a landscaped
walkway, with interpretive plaques to be erected at the site. Possible
future features include a statue of Thomas being given water by nearby
resident Janie Forsythe. Since designation of the national monument,
the National Park Service, Calhoun County, and the Freedom Riders
Memorial Committee have begun working together to develop a plan for
interpreting the site; Alabama Power provided money for the effort in
2015. A sign denoting the future presence of the park was erected in
2012. Soon after it was placed at the site it was vandalized, but
repairs were quickly made.
The
Midwest Rail Rangers is an independent non-profit 501(c)(3)
organization which presents on-board educational programs on the South
Shore Line and on private rail excursions across the Upper
Midwest. Check out our website for more information on how you
can be part of our growing organization. We hope you will enjoy reading our articles about all of
the interesting places you can take the train to -- especially
America's National Parks and many other off-the-beaten path locations.