For our July 2016 TrainWeb
article, we are going to conclude telling you about the cross-country train
trip that we took between April 28, 2016 and May 8, 2016. Before beginning to
read this article, you may wish to read last month’s (June 2016) article, which
covers the pre-trip planning and the first half of the trip, including our
travels on Amtrak’s Capitol Limited, Silver Meteor, and City of New Orleans.
This month’s article will focus on the second half of the trip, including time
spent on the Southwest Chief and the Coast Starlight trains.
Robert and Kandace hanging with Amy Lambert - one of our favorite station agents in Fort Madison, Iowa
The first “fresh air stop” on the
route of the westbound Southwest Chief is Fort Madison, Iowa; it is just across
the Illinois-Iowa border and is about 235 miles from downtown Chicago. We had
to wait for a few minutes outside of Fort Madison for the Mississippi River
railroad bridge to go back into position. I don’t think anyone minded sitting
near the river because the views were amazing. We proceeded across the river
and rolled into Fort Madison. We are friends with the station agent, Amy
Lambert, who was on-duty. We didn’t really have too much time to chat as she
was busy loading and unloading the bags, but we did get a quick selfie with
Amy. Amy is actually the only station
agent in Fort Madison, meaning if she is on vacation or if it’s the weekends,
the conductors have to load the checked bags into the baggage car. We were
rolling again, just a few minutes late. Fort Madison is about 530 feet above
sea level and is the lowest elevation on the whole route of the Southwest Chief
between Chicago and Los Angeles.
Plenty of time to walk the platform at Kansas City, Missouri
A look inside Kansas City's historic train station - plenty of time to explore with an early arrival on the Southwest Chief
We slept good during our first
night on the Southwest Chief and woke up as we were crossing the
Kansas-Colorado Border. We decided to have an early breakfast so that we could
get a seat in the Sightseer Lounge car for the mountains that would be coming
up later on in the morning and in the early afternoon. It always amazes that
some passengers wonder out loud – where are the mountains? – as soon as they cross into Colorado. Those
who know their geography realize that the eastern third of the state is just as
flat as Nebraska or Kansas. We rolled into La Junta about 15 minutes early
which meant the train would be sitting there for almost an hour. We took
advantage of the down time and decided to walk around the town. With it being
around 8am, there wasn’t much open, but we walked 6 blocks deep into the town
and 6 blocks back. It was nice to be able to stretch our legs to that extent.
One of my favorite sites in La Junta is the mural that shows how many “Amtrak
miles” you are from various points across the United States. US 50, which is a
cross-country US Highway, goes through the town.
Our early arrival streak continues at La Junta, Colorado - letting us walk around the town for close to 1 hour
The first view of the Rocky Mountains in Colorado from the Southwest Chief
The train is working hard to climb towards Raton Pass - we are still in Colorado here
Ok - is this the windmill that Amtrak used for inspiration on its Southwest Chief posters?
We left La Junta on time and were again on our journey west. We had a booth in the Sightseer Lounge car and enjoyed spending the morning playing our favorite train-themed board game, “Ticket to Ride”. We slowly began to enter the mountains as we approached the Colorado-New Mexico border. We kept our eyes out for the famous old Santa Fe signs marking Wooton’s Ranch and Raton Pass. We like to know what we are seeing out the window, so we always bring along the railroad route guidebooks written by Eva Hoffman. About 10 years ago, Eva wrote a series of route guidebooks for the California Zephyr and has gradually expanded to other routes across the country. She serves as the inspiration for our “Outside the Rails” route guidebook series. You may notice that the layout of our books is very similar to her style. In 2015, we had the chance to meet Eva, when she rode the Zephyr with us from Denver to Granby. She is retired geologist who loves train travel. Since Eva isn’t that familiar with websites, we made a deal with her to carry her books on our website. You can order both her guidebooks (which focus more on the long-distance routes) or our guidebooks (which are more detailed, but focus exclusively on the Midwest routes) at www.outsidetherails.com. A train ride is a lot more fun for us when we know what we are looking for out our windows. Soon, we were through the Raton Tunnel and were able to step off at the “fresh air stop” in Raton, New Mexico. At both Trinidad, Colorado and Raton, New Mexico passengers can look up at the mountains and see the letters of the town looming large on the mountainside – much like the Hollywood sign out in California.
We continued on across New Mexico
with stops in Lamy and Las Vegas. We spent the afternoon having lunch in the
dining car, and enjoying the sights from the lounge car… plus playing a few
more rounds of our board game. We were making good time and ended up arriving
into Albuquerque about 20 minutes early; this gave us about a full hour to
explore around town. We were a little disappointed that there were not many
vendors on the platform. Normally, there is a large group of Native Americans selling
jewelry and pottery – and sometimes even fry bread and other treats. This day
there were only about five vendors. We ended up buying a couple of goodies, but
it was the least amount of vendors we had ever seen. One of the vendors told us
that a lot of them don’t show up until the summer when there is a larger
passenger load. Going back to the Santa Fe days, a Native American guide would
step aboard the train here and narrate to Gallup for passengers about their
history. This tradition carried on with Amtrak. However, we were told that
maybe 15 or 20 years ago, the Native American guides wanted to get paid and
Amtrak wanted nothing of the sorts. When Amtrak refused to pay them, they
stopped providing their services. I vaguely remember a Native American guide
being on the Southwest Chief when we took the train to Los Angeles in the late
1980’s. It’s too bad something couldn’t
have been worked out because it would have been a nice diversion. Anyway, we
got some drinks and a snack in the station and walked around town and to the
bridge over the yards to get some photos of the train.
Getting off the train and going for a walk in New Mexico
We ended up leaving Albuquerque on
time, and we thought would likely have an early arrival into Los Angeles to
stretch our legs before connecting with the Coast Starlight. Shortly after
Albuquerque, the Southwest Chief joins back up with the BNSF Transcon route
from Chicago to Los Angeles. For those who don’t know the routing that well,
between Central Kansas and just west of Albuquerque, the vast majority of BNSF
freight trains use a route through the Oklahoma and Texas panhandles. This
route is a lot more flat than the route Amtrak uses over Raton Pass, which
allows the freight trains to move faster and not face as steep of a grade. I
honestly don’t think we saw one freight train pass us or meet us between when
we woke up in Western Kansas and just past Albuquerque. Of course, there has
been a lot of debate as to whether the BNSF should abandon the route over Raton
Pass and Amtrak should re-route the Southwest Chief through Oklahoma and Texas.
Anyway, you could definitely tell where the BNSF Transcon route comes back in,
as there were countless freight trains in sidings and running next to us.
Gallup, New Mexico was where on streak of early or on-time arrivals came to a screeching hault
We headed to dinner around 7:00pm
that evening, and since we were continuing to run early, the conductors let us
off in Gallup, which normally is not a
“fresh air stop”. It was a quick one, but Robert had time to jump up from the
table and get off and get some quick pictures; Kandace stayed at the table so
that they wouldn’t clear off our plates.
My GPS ran the entire train route - from Chicago Union Station to Los Angeles UPT
After dinner, we decided we would
do the same thing we did the night before – take our showers early – but stay
up so that we could get off at the “fresh air stop” (of course, in Flagstaff,
vs. Kansas City which we were in 24 hours earlier. We had a large group of
America by Rail passengers on board who were getting off in Flagstaff, so we
figured we would be sitting there for quite sometime. We took our showers and
noticed how easy it was to shower – which isn’t always a good thing. It turns
out that rolling into Winslow, a freight crew decided to park the train between
the track our Southwest Chief train was coming in on and the station. Scanner
traffic indicated that the conductor was going to try and walk the passengers
around the freight train to the station – but decided that would be too
dangerous in the dark. So, he made the call to sit there and wait for the
freight train to move. We sat in the Winslow station for a good 30 minutes
waiting for the freight train to move. This was the latest we had left any
station since Chicago. It would be another hour or so before we would even get
to Flagstaff, so we decided to call it a night and not get off in Flagstaff.
The lead LSA in the dining car
said (if we were running on-time) that we would need to be in the dining car by
no later than 6am if we intended to have breakfast. The plan was Kandace was
going to sleep in and Robert was going to get two continental breakfasts to go.
There was an “abbreviated menu” coming into Los Angeles anyway that meant the
crew did not have to turn on the grill. When Robert work up at 5:30am to the
alarm, he checked the GPS and noted that we were just outside of Barstow and
running between two and three hours late. I guess that little incident at
Winslow really made up lose our slot during the night. This also meant that we
would not have to get in for breakfast quite so quick! Robert watched out the window for a bit, and
woke Kandace up around 6:30am as we were pulling out of Victorville. This was
the first time that Robert had been on a train that went over Cajon Pass in
daylight too – so it was quite a treat. The interesting thing that we noticed
was the extreme weather change that happened almost in an instant going over
Cajon Pass! It was crystal clear in
Victorville and by the time we got to the top of Cajon Pass and into San
Bernardino it was foggy with heavy rain. I guess the Coastal Mountains can play
that much of an influence on the weather in Southern California. We had our
breakfast as we rolled through Riverside and Fullerton. Since we were
connecting to the Coast Starlight and we were still running about 2 hours down,
we were a tad worried about our connection. But our sleeping car attendant
advised there was a good 30-45 minutes of pad before arriving in LA and we
would be arriving just after 9am and would still have an hour of free time
between the Southwest Chief and Coast Starlight – and he was correct!
Going over Cajon Pass in daylight on the Southwest Chief for the first time ever
Kandace looking out the window at the platform work going on in San Bernardino, California
We arrived into LAUPT at about
9:05am on Thursday, May 4th. Since the Coast Starlight would be
boarding in about 30 minutes, Kandace decided just to wait in the main corridor
of the boarding gates with our bags, and Robert made a quick dash over to
Phillipe’s to get some spicy mustard for our friend Delano that we would be
visiting in Minnesota in June. Normally we would have got a bight to eat there,
but the the timing was a little too tight.
A selfie showing our Southwest Chief arrival at Los Angeles Union Passenger Terminal
Robert got back to the station
around 9:40am and the Coast Starlight was beginning to board already. It almost
always comes in on Track #10, so one does not need to guess or wait for the
track assignments on the boards. We went up the left hand ramp which is for
sleepers (coach passengers go up the right hand ramp). The first thing we
noticed, sadly, was a lack of a Pacific Parlour Car. This is, of course, the
First Class lounge car that only operates on the Coast Starlight train sets. The
Pacific Parlour Cars are restored hi-level lounge cars built for the Santa Fe
in 1954. At one time, Amtrak used many of the Santa Fe’s hi-level cars, but
they were generally phased out with the production of more and more Superlines.
The Superliners, in fact, were based of the Santa Fe’s hi-level designs.
Anyway, the only former Santa Fe hi-level cars still in regular use by Amtrak
are the Pacific Parlour Cars. Amtrak had
6 of these cars prior to around 2001, but decided to sell one off – deeming
they only really needed 5 (4 that would run on the train sets at any given time
and one spare that would be kept as a back-up). The car that was sold off has
actually been sitting in a railroad yard on the Illinois side of the St. Louis
metro area that my friend Roger owns for the past 10 years now (I am hoping to
do a TrainWeb article specially on the Parlour Cars sometime soon). Anyhow, it turns out that Amtrak
really should have kept that sixth Parlour Car, because due to the age
of the cars, two spares really would have really been a better option. Thanks
to some friends who work for Amtrak, I found out the reason we didn’t have a
Pacific Parlour Car on our northbound Coast Starlight was because one of the
cars (#39973 “Santa Lucia Highlands”) was undergoing major refurbishment in
Chicago and Beech Grove, Indiana after a fire in December 2015. Then, another
car was going through its regular 90-day cycle of service. This left our
trainset without a Pacific Parlour Car. Amtrak did substitute a Sightseer
Lounge in its place – but the Pacific Parlour Car was the major reason we
wanted to ride the Coast Starlight.
Jumping off the
northbound Coast Starlight at Bob Hope Burbank Airport - you can see
this train has no Parlour Car, but instead two Sightseer Lounges
We got up early on the morning of Friday, May 5th and took the light rail from Seattle Airport to Downtown Seattle. We got going earlier than we had to and had some time for breakfast at the “original” Starbucks location in Pike’s Place Market; we also had time to watch the fresh fish being loaded in the market stores. We also thought we might of had time for a spin on the monorail, but decided to play it safe and save that for another time. We arrived around 9:00am for the 9:45am departure of the Coast Starlight. This was our first time back at King Street Station since the renovations; we can reports back that crews did a wonderful job. It’s a shame to think that workers actually hid the beautiful ceilings at one time! Passengers were already lining up, so we got in line too to have our tickets scanned by the conductor. Of course, we got the chance to peek out the window and saw – yes, indeed – we would have a Pacific Parlour Car on our train.
Kandace enjoys watching the workers throw fish at Seattle's Public Market
Kandace also enjoyed getting coffee from the original Starbucks location at Pikes Place in Seattle
We had the chance to take in a ride on Seattle's Sounder Public Transit
We headed up into our bedroom in Car #1130 and got settled in. While getting some pictures of the exterior of our train, we noticed some private cars sitting over on the next track. Among them was lounge car “Montana” with its open platform on the rear – this really caught our attention as it was painted in Milwaukee Road maroon and orange. As luck would have it, some people were getting off “Montana” so I started a conversation with them. It turns out one of the crew members was none other than Tim Tennant – the President/CEO of the Friends of the Cumbers and Toltec Railroad, Inc. I had just emailed him a week earlier about having some of our APRHF Rail Rangers docents aboard an excursion he was planning between Chicago and La Plata/Kansas City on October 1, 2016. We had never met before – and I have to say – meeting in Seattle probably put the seal on the deal – and when we spoke again when I got home – Tim made us an offer to be part of his trip. We also met the owners and got a quick peek inside. We would have had more time to sit in the “Montana”, but it was final boarding for the southbound Coast Starlight.
We are now onto pictures from the following day -- Amtrak's Coast Starlight climbs the passes in California
Robert grabs photos too, from his favorite chair in the Pacific Parlour Car
Some bicycle rides paralleling our train route near San Luis Obispo, CA
Pictured here with our friend Mike Pace, who rode with us on the Coast Starlight from Portland to Emeryville
Between Sacramento and Salinas, our friends Bob and Julie rode with us. We actually met the two of them about three years ago through an on-line information board about Amtrak. Kandace, who was raised in California, is a big fan of In N Out Burger – for those of you not in the know – it’s a hamburger chain with stores only in the west, mainly in California. Anyway, three years prior we knew with the timing of the trip we would not be able to get In N Out. We asked if anyone on the forum would be willing to deliver us In N Out to the train and we would pay for the time and trouble. We didn’t expect to hear from anyone, but Bob and Julie ended up writing us back. They have done two In N Out Burger deliveries to the train. This was going to be their third attempt! Bob got off in San Jose – and planned it out that he would have enough time to get ahead of the train and deliver the burgers at Salinas – where Julie would get off. Well… it turns out the Coast Starlight was extra fast and In N Out was extra slow that day. Bob was literally pulling up as the train was rolling out of Salinas. We figured that Bob and Julie would just enjoy our burgers for lunch – but it was not be for them! They called us up on the train and said they felt bad for missing the train – and instead – insisted on meeting us with the burgers and fries down in Paso Robles. We said sure – but looked at the timetable and saw this would be a 200 mile round-trip drive for them! We called back and said – don’t worry about it – but again, they insisted. Wow, talk about friends! They were able to do it – and we got out In N Out in Paso Robles. I think the smell of the In N Out in the Parlour Car make everyone want some. We had more than 10 crew and passengers ask where we got those burgers from. This is one story we won’t soon forget!
Enjoying time with our friend Julie, who rode with us from Sacramento to San Jose, in the Pacific Parlour Car
A delivery of In N Out Burger, courtesy of our friends Bob and Julie, on the platform at Paso Robles, California
Anyway, our final special visitors on the southbound Coast Starlight that rode with us – were Robert’s best friend from high school, Alexander, and his wife Jennifer and 4-year-old son, Jacob. They rode the train up earlier in the day to Santa Barbara. They got on around 6:00pm on Saturday night in Santa Barbara and rode with us back to Van Nuys, where we would be getting off and spending the night at their house. The three of them had never ate in a real Amtrak dining car before, so we treated to dinner and make special reservations with the crew so they could get in and eat – even though dining car service ended for everyone else just outside of Santa Barbara. We had a very friendly Amtrak crew and they allowed us to show Alexander, his wife, and son the rest of the First Class part of the train. We showed them the Pacific Parlour Car and what options they would have if they ever took a sleeping car. I think a lot of people from larger cities think they all passengers trains are like Metra – or a commuter rail car – and they don’t have nice accommodations and dining facilities on the train. Before we knew it, we were rolling into Simi Valley and began to get our things together. We got off the southbound Coast Starlight in Van Nuys and said goodbye to the last rail portion of our trip.
That's it folks - the end of the line. The train portion of our 11-day trip comes to an end in Van Nuys, California
We ended up spending the
night at Alex and Jen's apartment on the border of Los Angeles and
Santa Monica. Since we had an early flight back home the next morning
to Chicago, we stayed up and talked a bit - but also worked on getting
some sleep -- especially on something that wasn't moving. Alex and Jen
were nice enough to provide us a lift to LAX Airport for our direct
flight back home.
OUTSIDE THE RAILS @ TRAINWEB
NEXT MONTH'S ARTICLE (AUGUST 2016):
A look at our marriage proposal and
wedding reception that took place on train! All aboard for the
"rolling reception" and how Robert pulled off his proposal to Kandace
on Amtrak's Empire Builder going through his hometown of Northbrook,
Illinois on January 1, 2012.