Three hours later, my shoulder aching from a garment bag that
seemed filled with bricks, I added an entry to the mental
checklist: Don't try that again.
In Europe, taking a train to
the plane is a given. The train from Amsterdam pulls right
underneath the terminal at Schiphol, and rapid transit is just
as easy to catch from Charles de Gaulle to the stellar Metro
system in Paris. The same is true at Heathrow, Hamburg,
Copenhagen, and Zurich.
The United States has been slow to embrace direct transit
access to airport terminals. But that is changing.
The biggest news on this front is in San Francisco, where the
BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit) extension to the airport opened in
June to rave reviews, joining the Red Line in Portland, Ore.,
and the Green Line in Los Angeles in car-free efficiency. On the
East Coast, trains will soon be leaving every five minutes from
Penn Station in Manhattan to the Jamaica Center-JFK station, a
nice mirror image for the 15-minute ride on Amtrak or New Jersey
Transit to Newark International. Chicago, Philadelphia, Atlanta,
and Washington, D.C., figured out the beauty of this system many
years ago. Taking a train to the plane is also possible in
Oakland, St. Louis, and Cleveland.
But the LaGuardia example is a reminder of how most airports
are still accessible only by car, taxi, bus, or limousine -- and
how alternative modes of travel are actually discouraged.
How badly did it go, stepping out of the Hyatt at Grand
Central Station that day, when I ignored the idling queue of
taxis? Those absurd tests in reality TV shows come to mind.
Hopping on the No. 7 line to Queens was a no-brainer, but one
glance at the transit map and I was consumed with doubt. Did the
dotted line symbolizing the Q33 bus lead to the Jackson Heights
stop at 74th Street, or at 82nd? A smudge, no doubt from people
touching the map and wondering the same thing, obscured the
answer.
No ''transfer here for LaGuardia" announcement and no signs
with little plane symbols on them; I rolled the dice and got off
at 82nd Street. Descending from the elevated tracks and into the
sounds and smells of Jackson Heights, I stood at a trademark
blue-and-red sign for the bus, only to be informed by a helpful
passerby, who had spotted my garment bag, that the bus to
LaGuardia actually stopped around the corner -- over at an
unmarked spot.
More doubt. Was it Q33, Q47, or Q48? The driver of the first
bus waved me off -- no LaGuardia stop on this route. Three buses
later, a plane symbol could be spotted behind the front window.
No seats, and approximately 5 million stops for red lights and
passenger pickups. The diesel workhorse made slow, wide turns
down narrow neighborhood streets and around double-parked cars,
pulling up at LaGuardia with a final surprise: Only certain
buses go to the Marine Air Terminal, where my Delta shuttle had
long since departed. Stranded at the main terminal, I had no
choice but to -- you guessed it -- hail a cab for the final leg
of my frustrating journey.
A number of cities and airports are working to make that
typically circuitous, demoralizing trip a thing of the past,
like smoking in restaurants. The best systems have features that
are the exact opposite of the LaGuardia experience.
Rule number one: One mode of travel is best, straight to the
terminals without a transfer. This is what transportation
planners call the ''one-seat ride," and it's especially
important for people with luggage. Transferring from the No. 7
to the Q33 is a worst-case scenario, but even the switch to a
shuttle bus at an airport station is problematic. If the transit
cannot go to the direct vicinity of the airline counters,
people-movers or circulators on fixed rail or in guideways are a
must.
The other key factor is whether the airport connection is a
subway or commuter rail, or its equivalent. There's a huge
difference between trains that leave every hour and a subway
that comes around every 10 minutes -- the frequency of service
that planners call ''headways." If you have to sit down and
puzzle over a schedule, chances are you will hop in a car or cab
-- especially as the time crunch intensifies in the current era
of preflight security screening.
So what are US cities doing to create the anti-LaGuardia
system? The undisputed leader at the moment is San Francisco,
which recently opened its version of a one-seat ride to the
airport. Rider reviews have been very positive on this half-hour
trip on the Dublin/Pleasanton line, part of an ambitious
four-station extension by BART. The airport station is at the
departure level of the international terminal; the United
Airlines counters are a short walk away. Access to other
terminals is available via an extensive people-mover system. For
a region notorious for traffic jams that can occur at any time,
the rail link is already well-loved.
Farther north in the crunchy Pacific Northwest, the city of
Portland, Ore., which relies heavily on a light-rail system to
get people around a dense metropolitan area ringed by an urban
growth boundary, also made sure that there was a swift
connection to Portland International Airport. The Red Line
extension, which features low-slung trolley cars that make it
easy to roll luggage on board, is now part of an extensive
light-rail network in this region considered to be the cradle of
smart growth.
In Los Angeles, meanwhile, the new Green Line doesn't go to
Los Angeles International Airport, exactly; just when it could
head straight for the terminals, it inexplicably veers south to
Redondo Beach. But you have to give Angelenos credit for having
the Green Line at all, in a region ruled by the automobile. The
light-rail line, completed in 1995, runs down the median of the
Century Freeway. The tedious part comes at Aviation station,
where passengers must descend to a lower level and catch a
shuttle bus to the terminal.
New York is also making strides, with the exception of
LaGuardia. After decades of false starts and bad planning, the
AirTrain to JFK, on Long Island Railroad tracks, is set to open
this fall. The key difference here is what happens when
passengers reach the Jamaica Center-JFK station -- instead of
the cumbersome terminal bus, they can make an easy crossplatform
transfer to a new light-rail circulator to terminals. The
AirTrain links to the city subway system (the A train at Howard
Beach, the E, J, and Z trains at the Jamaica station), and is a
project of the Port Authority of New York and New Jersey, which
also runs the AirTrain to Newark International Airport. Newark
is a model train-to-the-plane system, taking all of 14 minutes
and making full use of an extensive people-mover system.
A few places on the East Coast established the transit
connection long ago. Step off your US Airways shuttle at Ronald
Reagan Washington National Airport, cross the street, and go up
a flight of stairs, and the Yellow or Blue lines are there to
whisk you into the district. There are lesser transit
connections to Dulles (Orange Line to West Falls Church and then
the Washington Flyer shuttle, which claims to run every 30
minutes) and Baltimore-Washington International (Green Line to
Greenbelt Metro Rail station and then the B30 express bus, every
40 minutes). But the way those Metro tracks cozy up close to the
terminals at Washington National -- it's irresistible, even with
D.C. cab fares as cheap as they are.
Other metropolitan areas love their airport transit so much,
they can't get enough of it.
O'Hare is a classic on-the-outskirts airport, but hopping on
the Blue Line to Chicago's Loop has long been an attractive
option. The Chicago Transit Authority has long attracted riders
who don't want to risk the infamous expressway backups; now
Metra, the regional transportation authority's commuter rail
service in the Chicago area, wants to launch a $1 billion
expansion to establish rail service that would link 100 suburbs
with O'Hare.
Atlanta is another fine example of airport transit in what is
otherwise a sea of sprawl. The Metropolitan Atlanta Rapid
Transit Authority boasts of an ''efficient, no-hassle
connection" to Hartsfield on the South Line, with a train
station in the main terminal building near baggage claim.
Philadelphia has commuter rail at the airport -- you walk
right over the tracks on your way in from many gates. The
service is pretty much every hour, and although slightly more
frequent at rush hour, it's not quite as attractive as a subway.
Another small complaint: the Southeastern Pennsylvania
Transportation Authority makes it hard to figure out schedules,
where to go, where to pay for a ticket. Spell it out, and they
will ride, many transportation planners believe.
Distance from terminals and not mode of travel is the problem
at Boston's Logan International Airport. The Blue Line stops a
half-mile northwest of the terminals, requiring a schlep onto a
pokey terminal bus. The proposed Silver Line, a bus
rapid-transit system, will make it possible to get on a vehicle
at South Station and go to terminals, but until then, it's a
classic case of so close and yet so far.
Beware: Assessing train-to-the-plane systems is
habit-forming. You can feel like quite a nerd trying to figure
it all out. In most places, if you ask about rail transit from
the airport to downtown, they look at you as though you're from
Mars, or worse, from Europe. Last fall, an inquiry upon landing
in New Orleans prompted that look. The streetcars might run in
New Orleans proper, but it's strictly taxis and shuttle buses to
get across Lake Pontchartrain. Feeling planet-conscious again, I
bought a $10 ticket for a bus that stopped at eight hotels.
Peering out the window, I inspected the highway median, and
wondered if a light-rail system could be accommodated there.
Anthony Flint can be reached at flint@globe.com.
© Copyright 2003 Globe Newspaper Company.