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The Jakeville & Keirton in HO Scale




Model Photo page

Layout table constructionJakeville & Keirton track plan - overhead, in HO scale. An advantage of tilt-top benchwork

Track & ControlKeirton siding arrangementJakeville siding arrangement

Scenery on the Jakeville & Keirton - trees, water, rocks & grassrounding the corner into Keirton - Future Floor wax stream!

Structures - kits & kitbashed

Detailing structures & scenesplanning structures and details for a scene on the Jakeville side

Rolling Stock - boxcars to hoppers

Easy electronics - constant/directional lighting, flashers,
ditch lights, Athearn conversions

* * Motive Power - painting, customizing & detailing * *


J&K SW1500 #603, J&K SW-7, CSX GP38-2 #2557 & Durham & Southern #2001 moved to the Model Page

J&K GP38-2 #1128 - work in progress 
 
 

Norfolk Southern GP60 #7116 - work in progress NS GP60 #7116 Work in Progress

"Flame Weathering"

Future Floor Wax


"Flame Weathering"
by Mike Schwarze

Printable Version

"Flame Weathering" is the term I use to describe a method for adding dark black soot around exhaust stacks and fans on the roofs and sides of model diesel locomotives. Basically, all you do is get an old piece of sprue from your scrap box, light it on fire, and wave it underneath a painted shell. You can vary the effect in several ways - hold the model further away from the smoke; reduce the time the smoke hits the model; move the shell instead of the fire; brush the soot off after you're finished flaming....  Three of my experiments are below:

Here's two old AHC GP7 shells I used as guinea pigs for my flame weathering tests: These are undecorated, white-primed shells. I've also "torched" an IHC Southern green C-Liner.

* * I should add here that this should only be done outside - forget about the proverbial "well-ventilated area". Probably not a good idea to put newspaper down underneath, either, for obvious fire safety reasons. Wear heavy leather gloves & appropriate eye protection - trust me. Burning sprue is basically napalm - DON'T get it on you! * *

All that out of the way, on to the experiments - - -

Shell #1
For this shell, I put the sprue in a clamp to hold it stationary and passed the model over it from side-to-side - notice how it feathers itself out down the sides. Light flame
 

Shell #2
For this shell, I held the burning sprue in my hand and passed it underneath the model from front to back, holding the shell slightly angled tail-up. The build-up is much heavier on this model - I did a lot more passes to try to get a black sooty appearance. It worked – the roof of the hood is just about jet-black.heavy flame

Shell #3
This is an IHC (?) C-liner shell I picked up at a swap meet a few years back and has been a guinea pig for many weathering and paint-compataibility experiments. Here's how it survived the "flame weathering" process: SouFlame

My conclusions:
I'm convinced that the way to do this is to have the burning sprue in a fixed position. A spring clamp would work to hold the sprue, but I’d go with a small vise and wave the model over that, because when you wave the sprue around, the flame dances too much. Also, do as I say and not as I do – this should be done outside. Black soot from burning sprue goes everywhere, and in close quarters, it just hangs in the air for hours. Also, it drips, so don’t wear your Sunday best or try this on the dining room table. Probably not a good idea to put down a lot of newspaper underneath to catch the drips, either….

Once you’ve flamed your models, you can do several things with it - the soot is powdery, to a degree, so you can use a soft brush to take it off places you don’t want it – tops of fans, any lettering on the side you don’t want obscured, etc. Use a stiffer brush for a different effect. When it’s the way you want it hit it with a coat of DullCote. Unlike chalk, it doesn’t disappear, though. Now you can add a bit of dry brushing with rust, earth, dust, aged concrete – pretty much any weathering color you normally use – so the soot doesn’t look too “new”. It has a very fine texture that chalk doesn't seem to capture. While chalk is great for more subtle applications of color, to me, the "blackness" of an ALCo exhaust stack or the grilles on the side of an F- or E-unit is best captured with this method. For a well-used Geep, torch the sides and then softly brush off some of the soot for a great looking dirty engine.

Try it!

Mike Schwarze  copyright 2000

 

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Modeling with Future Floor Wax by Mike Schwarze
Printable Version

I’ve found numerous uses for this stuff, some of which I’ve learned from the model press or newsgroups, others just by trial & error.
Future floor wax is a clear liquid acrylic manufactured by Johnson Wax. Its intended use is for shining no-wax linoleum floors. It is sold in 27oz-size jugs at grocery stores, discount stores like Target & Wal*Mart, large drug stores, etc. I’m sure there are generic brands available as well – all I’m familiar with is the name-brand Future, though.

Below is a simple list of modeling applications I’ve tried, as well as a few I haven’t.


03-Feb-2002