This section discusses how I constructed the downcomer, which carries the exhaust gases from the top of the furnace to the dust collector.
On every post-WWII blast furnace I've seen, the downcomer has three identifiable sections: (1) the top, at the uptakes; (2) a center piece which guides the gas away [usually at an angle]; and (3) a vertical bottom segment going straight into the dust catcher. The center length is joined to the top and bottom sections by a 45-degree elbow at each end. Sometimes each of the three sections is nearly identical in length - the Walthers furnace seems to reflect this design. Other structures have a long center section with stubby ends adjoining the uptakes and the dust collector. I chose to model the latter arrangement.
Here is a tabular list of the raw materials I purchased from a nearby Home Depot® store:
Qty | Description | Store Inventory Description | Size (if applicable) | Notes |
1 | Tubing, 11/4" Outer Diameter | Schedule-40 1-inch PVC Pipe | Minimum 4ft length | |
1 | Tubing, 1" Outer Diameter | Schedule-40 3/4-inch PVC Pipe | Minimum 1ft length | Used as [inner] dowel tubing |
2 | 45-degree Elbow, 11/4" Outer Diameter | Schedule-40 45O Elbow, 3/4-inch |
A newly purchased PVC elbow is, like its Walthers or Plastruct counterpart, smoothly rounded. So the first thing I did was to scribe three circumferential lines in the vicinity of the bend (see diagram). These would resemble seams as they appear on the prototype. Then, using the freshly-etched lines as boundaries, I filed-down the round bulge of the bend to make it resemble two joined straight segments (see diagram). This, combined with the etched lines, produced a more typical-looking downcomer elbow.
Next, I needed a way to join the elbows to the straight sections. To accomplish this, I cut four pieces of 1"-diameter pipe, each about 1 inch in length, and used these as dowels inside the larger pipe (see assembly diagram). Since the interior of the stright piping was slightly narrower than that of the elbows, some sanding was required on one end of each dowel tube to make them fit. Since the joints had to swivel freely to allow the piping to be positioned correctly with the components on either end, I glued only one end of each dowel tube. One additional operation I performed was to drill two tiny holes in the lower end of the upper elbow, then tap these out for set screws. Why? Because after several instances where the downcomer came crashing down while I adjusted the lower end, I realized that I needed an adhesive-free method for securing the top end. [The set screws are so tiny that, once painted, you will not see them if you don't already know they exist.]
The photo below shows the center straight section and the lower elbow.
NOTE: I eventually had to slightly angle the bottom end of the center section in order to locate my dust collector in the desired spot.
Click here to view a closeup photo of the completed downcomer.
-KJL 07/25/02