I had sent my money into Bananafish Tours the last week of February and was all set to ride to Copper Canyon in Mexico a third time. A week before the trip, Sandy Wallace, the wife of the Bill, the owner, called to inform me that their regular bartender could not work and since I had been very helpful before, wondered if I would like to bar tend. In return, she would send me back my cheque, the trip would be complimentary and in addition, I could keep any tips I made, so we had a deal.
A week later I drove to Calexico on the California-Mexico border and parked at the AA Parking lot then walked across into Mexico and took a taxi to the Hotel Lucerna and checked in. It was such a nice spring afternoon that I went to the pool area where I met some of the passengers and future customers, who were all very nice.
3/25/1991 The next morning the truck took all passengers to the station and after Customs, boarded, then I went to my room then to the lounge car to set up for business and the bar was was a desk. After obtaining some hot water for coffee and tea from the kitchen area, I was ready One of the Custom officials approached me to let me know that three passengers did not sign their Tourist Permits and said we could not leave Mexicali until either those people signed them, or I signed them. To save time, I signed them and the Customs agent went happily on his way.
We departed and soon people began to filter in with my first customer, a nice gentleman named Bob, about fifty, sat down on the couch and asked for a beer, giving me his name so I could check him off. I had been given a manifest which was divided into columns of coffee, tea, soft drinks, beer and mixed drinks and that was how we kept track of those who purchased drinks. I gave him his beer of choice then the coffee crowd arrived so I poured the hot water and let them mix it to their liking. By the time the coffee rush was over, we were passing the geothermal fields and I had my first break of the day then Bob and I began chatting and getting to know each other. He asked me more about the trip we were on and I recounted the ordeal from my last Copper Canyon excursion when we experienced the worst rain storm in Sinaloa's history. By the time I had finished, we were past Delta and fast approaching the Colorado River, which was at the lowest level I had seen but since the spring runoff had not reached this far south yet, that was not surprising, especially with the dams upstream.
The train stopped at Coahuila and proceeded into the Altar Desert, part of the Sonora Desert, and within minutes, entered the dusty world of the Altar as the beer crowd arrived. Sitting here watching the Altar was a very different way of crossing it and the car's interior became really hazy; this desert is the dustiest place I have ever been!
I watched for The Crosses as we passed them then made my first margarita and the woman who ordered it announced how well it was made so I had a margarita rush to deal with, along with another for Bob, before we arrived at Puerto Penasco where I detrained to stretch my legs in the warm March sun. Sandy complimented me on the excellent job I was doing and several other passengers agreed. After our departure, business was not quite so brisk until out of the blue, a gentleman ordered a rum and coke. He took a sip and said it was perfect then sat next to Bob who had another and over the rest of the afternoon, I had my two best customers sitting close to me. With his second rum and coke in hand within five minutes, I poured myself another one and carried on a good conversation until Caborca where I detrained to watch SBC Train 1 pass, then I returned to my post and within minutes, Sandy came to give me a break but not before I took good care of my two best customers.
I went to my room, put on my headphones and watched the Sonora countryside pass outside then went to the rear platform to watch the kilometer (mile) posts get higher as we proceeded to Benjamin Hill. I returned back to work, poured another round for my regulars and did a fairly good business while watching the rest of the countryside pass, then detrained while the crew combined our train with the one from Nogales. Continuing south down the Pacifico's main line at a nice rate of speed, dinner was served and I passed out the drinks to accompany the meal and ate mine in between serving everyone, then poured after-dinner drinks until Hermosillo, where I detrained there for the first time. I poured my regulars another round when Sandy arrived saying she would work the rest of the night and gave me the remainder of the evening off. I said my goodnights to everyone then went to the rear platform to watch the stars and the tracks fade from our marker lights; it was quite a nice sight. I then made up my room and went to bed after experiencing my first day as a bartender.
3/26/1991 The next morning, I woke up to find we were in Sufragio as normal and checked with Sandy as to when she wanted me to start. She noticed my camera and suggested I get my pictures now since the hot water was not yet ready and to be back in thirty minutes. So off I went to the engine facility.
National Railways of Mexico (FNM) RSD12 510, nee Ferrocarril Del Pacifico 510, built by American Locomotive Company in 1959. Starting day two, it was time for the coffee club as people woke up in Sinaloa and came in for breakfast. I like my bagels plain and my tea with a lot of sugar and this morning, I made screwdrivers for a few passengers.
An FCP freight passed south while we waited, followed by CHP first-class Train 3 which went by on the adjacent track outside my window on its way to the station. Today we were travleling on CHP second-class Train 7, which ran about an hour behind Train 3, so everyone was served before we left and had signed the liability release to ride in the open car. Train 7 arrived at Sufragio and picked up our cars before moving forward to do its station work; this was the fastest that we had been interchanged compared to my other two times.
I opened my window as we sailed up the CHP mainline and being at the bar created a completely different perspective than out in the open car, where I would otherwise be. Bob returned to his normal seat and I greeted him like Norm on "Cheers" with "Bob!" and gave him his beer of choice. He was having the time of his life and I wondered just what kind of life he had, so our conversation took on a more personal tone. El Fuerte came and the train stopped briefly after which the passenger who preferred rum and coke arrived. It was a bright sunny morning, the complete opposite of just three months ago and the lounge was filling up again as members of the coffee club returned for seconds and thirds. People kepy telling me that they liked the fact that I let them make their own coffee and that I would be tipped well. I glimpsed the cement plant then poured a second round for my regulars, after which we stopped at Loreto and the children came right below my window begging for anything. Finally we slowly pulled away and they chased us until they all lost the race.
It was then that Sandy came in and asked my opinion of whether or not to move my operation into the open car. Agreeing to this, I suggested moving items now as we were in the Descanso Tunnel and planned to stay there until the tunnels after Temoris. Sandy was fine with that arrangement and asked me to make a container of margaritas to take with me so I did. I then announced that we were on the approach to the El Fuerte Bridge and everyone followed me out for the crossing, which was the first time in the open car for most of them and they were loving it. It was very peaceful-looking today, quite the opposite of last December and the train that had run ahead of us that morning had been stuck for a week, so looking back, we were really lucky.
I returned to the lounge to prepare the cooler I was taking outside and my regulars were ready for their next rounds so I fixed theirs and prepared one of my own and enjoyed a few minutes of peace and quiet before going outside. The view from the desk was not so bad and far better than the view Amtrak Lead Service Attendants have. We entered the El Descanso Tunnel and I went into the open car then when we burst back into the daylight, I was open for service and became very popular as all the Tecate beer and soft drinks I took out were consumed.
When the rush was over and after enjoying the Chinipas bridge, I went back inside to restock, much to Sandy's surprise then returning outside, the pace was much slower, allowing me to look out at the canyon and to point items of interest to my two regulars who had come out to join me. The Rio Serpentine had cut several new channels along its course, probably from that storm last December and it was a beautiful warm day and I was glad that I was wearing one of my MacArthur baseball hats. Sandy then asked if I would explain about Temoris, which I was honoured to do.
This would probably be the only trip where I would not have my camera to hand as we travelled through Temoris, but I considered it a blessing to experience it eastbound at least once without having to look through a lens. We entered Temoris and crossed the curved Santa Barbara bridge around the first 180 degree turn before stopping at the station. It was here that I gave the historical speech on the Chihuahua Pacifico Railway, its history and building and several passengers videotaped me. My timing was perfect as just when the train started to move, I finished to a round of applause. As we climbed the middle level, passengers thanked me for the narration.
We entered the Le Pera Tunnel and curved around the 180 degree turn, putting us onto the top level with the outstanding view of Temoris below then passed through the next tunnel that went between the monuments, and entered the tunnel-after-tunnel section. I made one last call for outdoor bar service and my passengers cleaned me out so the outdoor vending was most successful. I returned with an empty ice cooler to the lounge car, finding my two regulars waiting for me so I served them and Bill joined us for the first time today and we talked railroading.
Lunch was the delicious chicken from the lady in San Blass and I ate mine at my desk then was busy again, passing out drinks with lunch, making more margaritas and answering questions such as what was the next scenic highlight, which really dependsd on what a passenger likes and what their interests were. I recommended they go out into the open car and enjoy the next horseshoe curve as we gain a lot of elevation so they did and it left me to the peace and quiet with the sounds of the train climbing the grade.
I found it interesting to be seeing the line from this perspective since I really could not see up or ahead, just out of the side. For the first time, I was noticing the rocks in the cuts and paying attention to the trees along the line. We went into the siding at Irigoyen with Bill outside adding freon to refill the cars' air conditioning units to help solve their problems. CHP Train 4 came by after twenty minutes and once we were on the move again, it was time for another round for the regulars. The conversations continued as we crossed the next high bridges, including the La Laja bridge before our arrival at San Rafael, where we changed crews, but stopped longer than normal waiting for CHP Train 8 to arrive and pass us. Once he was clear, we proceeded to Divisidero and the open car passengers returned, looking hot and tired and requested Chris' World-Famous Margarita and I readily prepared them and was very pleased when their reaction was 'perfect'! Another round for the regulars and the train arrived at Divisidero, where I detrained, most interested in the view, but did buy a few small baskets for my mother as she actively made miniature room settings so these little Tarahumara hand-woven baskets were ideal.
Everyone reboarded and it was more margaritas for our happy passengers who were very thirsty and were obviously enjoying themselves. I stayed busy but suggested everyone go outside to see the Rock of Fertility then we returned inside for another round before we approached El Lazo where we returned outside once again for the 360 degree loop. I announced that we would be arriving at Creel in about thirty minutes so recommended people gather what they needed for their overnight stay. They did that but returned for more margaritas. We had passed the highest point on the railroad so it was all downhill to Creel and arrived there, detrained then our cars were cut off and put into the siding.
Creel 3/26/1991After getting my hotel room at the Parador Montana, I freshened up before joining Bill and Sandy for dinner, where I enjoyed a steak then returned to my room.
3/27/1991
The next morning, it was hot cakes and bacon for breakfast before we toured the Tarahumara Indian Cave, Mushroom Rocks and Mission then returned to Creel to spend a leisurely few hours before returning to the train to prepare the lounge for our passengers' return.
The Return Trip 3/27/1991Back on the train, I found some Blue Curaçao, a popular liqueur used in numerous drinks whose flavour comes from the peel of the Laraha citrus fruit (which has been dried) and is grown on the island of Curaçao, and decided to experiment by using some of it in my margarita. I had a taste and it tasted fine so made another container of my regular margarita, after which Sandy came and wondered what was in the blue container and I replied that it was my world-famous blue margarita. She was not sure how that would go over, but a passenger approached and requested a margarita, to which I asked 'regular or blue' and the passenger chose a blue then commented that it was as good as my regular and that I knew how to make a good drink.
Our passenger cars were placed behind those of the Sierra Madre Express, the traditional excursion train that traverses the Copper Canyon then my regulars returned and we resumed our journey, travelling west and climbing up the CHP main line towards the highest point on the railroad. Both kinds of margaritas were flowing and I did a steady business by the time we reached the summit, where I announced El Lazo in five minutes. We descended down the loop and the passengers returned for another round when I announced the Rock of Fertility in two minutes on the left and everyone returned to the open cart until we stopped at Divisidero, where I detrained for some exercise.
The train's porters who looked after the passengers' needs. Returning to my position, my regulars were waiting so I fixed another round just as we departed and the margarita crowd came around for some more of the regular version and I worked with the occasional glance out of the window to view the countryside. San Rafael came, but this time I remained at my post as several passengers had yet to be served, with some of them being first-timers and this kept me busy for the entire time we were at the station. The late afternoon pace slowed down to nothing by the time the train crossed the La Laja Bridge so I relaxed and watched the canyon and was devoid of customers from La Laja to Irigoyen before the margarita crowd returned for some more of my special brew.
As there was far more daylight in late March than in December, Sandy informed me dinner would be after Temoris and did not mind if I went outside to ride down through Temoris but asked if I could make a pitcher of margarita as she had heard nothing but good things about them. I did just that and rode in the open car for an hour in the fresh air on the CHP through Temoris and in the late afternoon light, the journey was incredible. After leaving Temoris and the crossing of the Rio Serpentine, I returned to the lounge finding my two regulars wanting another round. Dinner was being prepared so the eager beavers came in for some pre-dining refreshment and the car filled up with everyone chatting until dinner was served and I made drinks for all of them.
Sandy gave me more of the chicken and I told her I was going to eat out in the open car and enjoy the crossing of the Chinipas River bridge so I had the open car to myself and for a few minutes, enjoyed nothing but the train riding experience. Following the Chinipas River, I went back inside to my duty of making after-dinner drinks and everyone was in a happy and relaxed mood as we train travelled through the El Descanso tunnel and exited into the foothills. The sun was setting but I suggested everyone go into the open car for the crossing of the El Fuerte River in the twilight so I bought up the rear of the group. Looking back to where we had been, it was hard to imagine that another day of CHP train riding was coming to an end. We crossed the river and all returned to the lounge car.
Returning to my post, my regulars were waiting for me to do my duty then we stopped at Loreto in the dark, so the rest of this part of the trip would be under the stars. The pace of serving slowed down to finally one by El Fuerte, so I took a five minute break to go the open car for a little star-gazing which I love to do at any opportunity since you can see many more stars here because the sky is darker due to the lack of city lights. After my fill of the Milky Way, I returned to my post and had a quiet ride to Sufragio, serving my two regulars at a regular pace with a few others in between. We arrived at Sufragio and a yard engine coupled onto us and pulled us through the interchange tracks before spotting us for a westbound pickup. I straightened the car and bar area, said goodnight to Bill and Sandy, as well as the few passengers still left, before I went to my room and called it a night.
3/28/1991 The next morning, I awoke and went to the lounge car for my last day of service, relaxing for a few minutes as the train rolled down the Pacifico's mainline. Bill strolled in, looked out the window and said we should be in Empalme in twenty minutes. I went to get some hot water for coffee, returning in time to serve two passengers who had just walked into the car this early morning. When we arrived at the yard limits, I took my camera and detrained.
At the front of the train, I saw a FCP employee doing his best Ozzy Osbourne wide-arm peace sign stand and upon my photographing that, we both burst out laughing. Once back in the lounge car to pour more hot water for coffee, Bob sat down and not surprisingly, ordered a beer. We left Empalme and rolled past the shops before the train curved away from the Gulf of California and made its way to the desert. The passengers slowly awoke and filtered in for their breakfast, coffee and other assorted items, so for the next hour I was busy with customers but looked out at the Sonora Desert every now and then. There was a small town along this section of Pacifico track with ranchlands in between.
I detrained for some pictures and the vendors were selling through the open windows and at the vestibule. It was interesting watching each individual's techniques and after observing for a few minutes, you can tell who is really good and who is not. I was in a country that does not run a dining car service, so this is the system that has to work to feed people on their trips. Our train was connected with another coach and engine preparing to leave, so I re-boarded the lounge car and we were off on the final leg of our trip to Mexicali, leaving the Sierra Madre Express cars to proceed to Nogales without us.
The train was now back on the rails of the Sonora Baja California Railroad and we quickly accelerated to track speed as we went northwest into the Altar Desert. A few passengers now came up expecting me to make some very exotic drinks and when Sandy heard this, decided I needed a tip glass. I asked them to tell me how the drinks were made and I would make them, so mixed a White Russian, a Black Wizard and a Sunset Surprise and my tip jar started to fill. The margarita club arrived then my two regulars each wanted another round and with everyone served and happy, I poured myself another as the train stopped at Caborca then made its way further out into the Altar Desert on this beautiful and warm clear day. People came and went between here and Puerto Penasco and I had a request for more blue margarita, so I mixed my brew and poured for more happy customers.
I had an opportunity to look into the desert and made sure I tried to what was out of the ordinary. After making a few more drinks for the passengers, the train pulled into the siding at El Sahuaro to wait for SBC Train 2 to pass then another round for the regulars and the margarita club before we arrived in Puerto Penasco, our final servicing stop and leg stretching of the journey. Upon departure, Sandy collected my tally sheets so she could settle up with the passengers and told me from here to Mexicali, everything was complimentary. As the train crossed the Altar Desert, I was busy making and giving out drinks and as people paid Sandy, they then came to see me for my services and information before handing me American funds and thanking me for everything.
The sun set in the western Altar, our happy train headed for Mexicali through the night and we stopped at Coahuila with a real party in the lounge car. As we crossed the Colorado River back into Baja California Norte, we passed their geothermal fields all lit up and at Pascaulitos, I announced that Mexicali would be reached in fifteen minutes. Everyone said goodbye to me before going to their rooms and packing then Sandy and Bill thanked me for doing such an outstanding and above-board job and I told them I would be glad to help anytime. Sandy handed me a couple of twenties then I cleaned up the bar area and she told me that we would get everyone into taxi groups for those going to AA Parking or the Hotel Lucerna.
The train went around the balloon track then reversed into the Mexicali station with my car leading, so I returned to my room to quickly pack and led the way off the train, through the station and to the front. I announced "AA Parking" and four other people joined me then Sandy came back from getting us a taxi and we said our goodbyes then I was the last one inside the taxi. We drove across the border with little questioning and arrived at AA Parking and I drove to El Centro to get a hotel room since it was very late. The next morning, I drove home via the east side of the Salton Sea to Santa Ana, ending another exciting, but different, Bananafish Tour Copper Canyon Adventure.
The amount I made in tips allowed me not to have to pay to get my car out of AA Parking, pay for the hotel, or for petrol and I was left with $187.50 when I returned home.
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