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Our Honeymoon Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad 7/9/2020

Elizabeth and I awoke in Alamosa at the Best Western Alamosa Inn then went to McDonald's and brought breakfast back to the room. After we packed, we drove down to Antonito and parked.

The Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad is a three foot narrow gauge heritage railroad running between Chama, New Mexico and Antonito, Colorado. It runs over the 10,015 foot Cumbres Pass and through Toltec Gorge, from which it takes its name. Trains operate from both endpoints and meet at the midpoint. Today, the railroad is the highest and longest narrow gauge steam railroad in the United States with a track length of 64 miles. The train traverses the border between Colorado and New Mexico, crossing back and forth between the two states 11 times. The Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad has been jointly owned by the States of Colorado and New Mexico since 1970 when it was purchased from the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railway, saving it from the scrap yards. The Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad received the Designation of a National Historic Landmark in 2012 by the United States National Park Service.

The railroad line was originally constructed in 1880-1881 by the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad as part of their San Juan Extension stretching from Alamosa, Colorado to Durango, Colorado. The line was constructed with three foot narrow gauge track to match the D&RGW's other lines. The line primarily supported mining operations in the San Juan mountains, mainly around Durango and Silverton. The longest and highest portion of the railroad, known as the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad, is 64 miles long and was constructed in 1880 in less than 9 months; an engineering miracle even by today's standards, considering the work was all done by hand.

Today's Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad was built in 1882 as a branch line off this main. By the late 1950s mining had dwindled substantially and the line was on the verge of abandonment, but an oil boom near Farmington, New Mexico created a traffic surge that kept the line operating for another decade hauling oil and pipe. By the late 1960s the traffic was virtually gone and abandonment was applied for. The States of Colorado and New Mexico purchased the 64 miles of San Juan Extension between Antonito, Colorado and Chama, New Mexico in 1970 and started operating the next year under the name of the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad.

The Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad continues to operate daily between May and October each year with five fully-restored steam locomotives. Soon the C&TSRR will have six fully restored engines when D&RGW 168 locomotive is moved from Colorado Springs, Colorado to Antonito, Colorado and restored to service. The 168 will then be the oldest and most authentic steam locomotive in the United States operating. The 168 was built in 1883 and is only one of two remaining of the original twelve locomotives built between 1883 and 1885 for the D&RG line. The other locomotive, 169 is on static display in Alamosa and not operational.

In 1970, the states of Colorado and New Mexico jointly purchased the portion of the line from Antonito to Chama along with much of the equipment that operated on the line. This section is the most scenic portion of the line, and a part that loops back and forth between the two states. The Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad Commission was created by an act of Congress as a bi-state entity to oversee the railroad. Over the years the railroad has been operated by several operators under contract by the commission, including Scenic Railways (1970-1981), Kyle Railways (1982-1996), Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Corporation/George Bartholomew (1997-1999), Rio Grande Railroad Preservation Corporation (2000-2002), Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Management Corporation (2003-2011), American Heritage Railways (2012) and Cumbres and Toltec Operating LLC (2013-).

Trains depart each morning from both Chama and Antonito. In peak season there are trains every day of the week in either direction. They meet at Osier, the midpoint of the line where lunch is provided. Passengers may continue on their train to the other end or switch trains to return to their original terminal. Through riders have the option of a motor coach return to their original terminal. All seats are reserved. Seats are sometimes available to walk-ups, but this is rare in peak season.

The line passes through Rio Grande and Carson National Forests. Most of the line is bordered by rocky ledges, cliffs and formations of varying types. The train passes along the rim of Toltec Gorge, a spectacular, though brief highlight. Conifer and aspen trees dominate with periodic mountain meadows. The aspen trees turn a brilliant yellow in the fall making those trips popular. The easternmost quarter shifts to scrubby and arid rolling hills. There are numerous restored historic structures along the line, including two tunnels, bridges, section houses and water tanks.

The Cumbres and Toltec is highly regarded by both railfans and historians due to its relative authenticity and surviving historic fabric. Chama houses one of the most physically complete railroad yards from the steam era in the United Sates. Although portions of the roundhouse, warehouses and parking lots have been changed, the railroad yard has the ambiance of pre-1960 railroad operations. The yard tracks contain authentic rolling stock and structures of the Denver and Rio Grande indigenous to the railroad line.

All the steam locomotives at the C&TS were built for and operated their entire careers for the Denver and Rio Grande Western. All 2-8-2 Mikados, these range from the relatively small K-27 "Mudhen", 463, once owned by Gene Autry, to the large K-37s, originally built as standard gauge locomotives. The mainstays are the venerable K-36 fleet, produced by Baldwin Locomotive Works in 1925. The only two Surviving D&RGW rotary snowplows are onsite and both have operated for the C&TS.

As Denver & Rio Grande Railroad San Juan Extension, the railway was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1973. The boundaries of the NRHP listed area were increased in 2007.

The railroad was featured extensively in the 1969 film "The Good Guys and the Bad Guys" and was used in the opening sequence of "Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade". The 2014 film "A Million Ways to Die in the West" also featured this railroad.

The C&TS has numerous siding and yards. There are turning wyes at Chama, Cumbres and Bighorn, turning loops at Osier and Antonito and a crossover at Lava. While officially headquartered in Chama, the railroad splits most of its functions between the terminuses of the railroad. The Cumbres and Toltec Commission offices are at Antonito, along with the railroad's main car shop where repairs to rolling stock are performed. The center of actual operations for the railroad is Chama, the site of the locomotive repair shop and the location of most of the historic equipment.

Cumbres and Toltec K36 2-8-2 488 built by Baldwin in 1925.

Cumbres and Toltec K36 2-8-2 484, built by Baldwin in 1925.

Recently-restored Cumbres and Toltec 168, built by Baldwin in 1883. We checked in, had our temperatures taken and were asked if we had any of the virus symptoms, to which we responded in the negative. This was done with all passengers, then we were given our lunch choices which they would take on the train once we were on board. Due to New Mexico being closed to visitors, we could not ride the entire journey from Antonito to Chama but Elizabeth and I were very happy just to have a train ride today.

This morning we witnessed the watering of our engine for the day.

Reversing from the water tower to the train.

Our train before boarding.

The engine that would pull our train today.

Elizabeth and our locomotive.

Car F "Rio Arriba" was our assigned coach. We had seats 21 and 22 and social distancing was the main theme of the day.

Open car 6205 in which we would spend our time. At 9:30 AM we were allowed to board the train.

My beautiful wife Elizabeth ready to enjoy her second experience on the Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad.

At 10:00 AM, the train departed Antonito for Osier.

Crossing US 285.

Rounding the first curve.

Elizabeth in the open car.

About to cross the Hangman's/Ferguson's Trestle. Per the handout, Ferguson was a very bad guy in Antonito. Convicted for an unknown crime, he was hanged from this bridge by the local posse.

Curving to gain elevation.

A view of most of the train.

The train proceeds southwest towards Mount San Antonio, a shield-type volcano.

En route toward Lava Loop, used for turning snowploughs in the winter.

Looking back down into the San Luis Valley.

Crossing the state line into New Mexico for the first time.

Climbing the Lava Loop to the Lava Tank.

The Lava Tank.

Climbing the grade towards Whiplash Curve.

Crossing back into Colorado.

The Whiplash Curve. Because steel wheels on steel rails slip on steep hills, the railroad must loop back on itself to gain elevation.

Curving on the way to the Big Horn Wye.

Big Horn siding.

Rounding many curves on the way towards Sublette.

Approaching Sublette.

Interesting geology.

Almost at Sublette.

Sublette, home for section gangs, the men who maintained the right-of-way, ties, ballast and rails. There are bunk houses for other workers, coal storage, a water spout and a speeder shed. Our engine took on water here.

Leaving Sublette.

More interesting geology.

Rounding another curve.

The Valley of the Rio de Los Pinos.

On the way to Toltec Siding.

The first of the Phantoms.

Still on our way to Toltec Siding.

My beautiful wife enjoying the ride.

Toltec Siding.

The train entering and exiting Mud Tunnel, which required wooden supports over its entire 342 foot length.

The Phantoms of Phantom Curve, named for the ghostly shapes and shadows seen in the locomotive headlight at night.

Exiting Phantom Curve.

More phantoms were seen after the curve.

On the way to Rock Tunnel.

Looking down into the Rio de Los Pinos Valley before Toltec Gorge.

The train entering Rock Tunnel, a tunnel bored through 360 feet of solid rock.

Looking down into Toltec Gorge.

The rest of the train exiting Rock Tunnel.

The Garfield Monument.

Looking down into Toltec Gorge.

On the way to Osier.

Looking back at Toltec Gorge.

On the way to Osier.

Yard Limit sign.

Approaching Osier.

Passing the connections for the Osier Loop.

Arriving at the siding.

The train and the water tower. We detrained for lunch here and Elizabeth and I enjoyed a very good turkey meal with chocolate cake.

During lunch, our train reversed down to the Osier Loop to turn so the steam engine would be on the east end. We enjoyed our return journey and it had been a great day aboard the Cumbres and Toltec Scenic, with everyone following the guidelines of the railroad and the CDC.

On display at Antonito is Cumbres and Toltec K37 2-8-2 495, built by the Denver and Rio Grande Western in 1928.

Also here was Cumbres and Toltec K37 2-8-2 494, built by the Denver and Rio Grande Western in 1928, on display. Upon arrival, I had to replace my hat which blew off at the Lava Loop going west, then we set the car's navigation to San Luis. On the way there though, as we passed through San Acacio, I spotted a building that had something written on it so we turned around.

The San Acacio San Luis Southern station built in 1910.

A switch stand proved to me that the railroad ran through this town. We then drove to San Luis, but had no luck finding a station so continued to Walsenburg, where we had KFC for dinner after checking into the Best Western Rambler Inn.

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