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Amtrak to Milwaukee via the Coast Starlight and Empire Builder 6/17-21/2004

I had received my Friends of the Milwaukee Road 261 newsletter in mid-February, announcing the participation of the steam engine in the 2004 Grand Excursion. The original Grand Excursion of 1854 was a celebration by the Rock Island Railroad which comprised a passenger train from Chicago to Rock Island with the 13th President of the United States, Millard Fillmore aboard. Once in Rock Island, they boarded a fleet of steamboats for the trip up the Mississippi River to St. Paul and on to the Falls of St. Anthony in Minneapolis. The Grand Excursion of 2004 was a year-long event celebrating and commemorating the historic Grand Excursion of 1854.

I checked to see when the last day of school was at McArthur Fundamental Intermediate then worked out where I could board Milwaukee Road 261, which would be on the second day in Milwaukee. I then acquired tickets for all the excursion trips from Milwaukee to La Crosse and the circle trip out of St. Paul on July 2nd. Next, I purchased Amtrak sleeping car tickets could not get a room east on the Empire Builder. During the 261 layover in Chicago, I planned to go to McComb, Louisiana in sleeping cars both ways then from La Crosse to Minneapolis, I would take Amtrak so I could be there for this year's National Railway Historical Society convention.

I then booked my hotel rooms for all nights and Bob Riskie, the Amtrak conductor, decided to join me from Davenport on, so a few hotel reservations had to be changed with no problem. I really wanted a room on the Empire Builder so kept checking but the price was much too high. I had my Amtrak Guest Rewards points so with a few phone calls, reserved my rooms on the Coast Starlight, Empire Builder and both ways on the City of New Orleans and would only pay for the railfare from La Crosse to Minneapolis and a round-trip from there to Minot on the Empire Builder.

When the NRHS convention booklet was received in late April, I decided on the bus to Duluth trip with a North Shore Scenic Railroad excursion to Two Harbors, the museum tour and the night photo session. I was in contact with Minnesota resident Dennis Larsen, who had heard me on Let's Talk Trains and offered to drive Bob and I to the train om July 2nd as he would be riding with us. On July 3, the three of us would chase Milwaukee Road 261/Canadian Pacific 2816 double-heading from St. Paul to La Crescent and return with the river boats arriving at St. Paul on that date. In addition, 261 would be doing the Westminster Hill to St. Paul and the short line hill trips on Independence Day.

I then earned on May 28th that Canadian Pacific 2816 would be running a four-day trip with the Milwaukee Road 261 trainset from Minneapolis to Portal and called the Friends of the 261 for tickets and the bus connection for that rare mileage over former SOO Line tracks. I visited the Santa Ana station to reschedule my Amtrak return and I booked a Minneapolis-to-Minot roundtrip to break up the layover from July 4th to the July 7th departure of the steam excursion. Most of the hotels for that trip were then reserved and I was all set.

However, when I checked the Friends of the 261 website, I found an announcement on the home page "THE CP TRIPS ON JULY 7-10 ARE TEMPORARILY ON HOLD" and decided to wait it out. In the meantime, I started a backup plan to rent a car in Minneapolis and visit the Wisconsin Great Northern in Spooner, Camp 5 in Laona and Mid-Continent Railway Museum in North Freedom. An additional Amtrak ticket from Minnesapolis to Minot would be required if I had to do this; only time would tell.

On June 9th, I found this on the Friends of 261 website: "Additional Requirements by the CP Railway. Children under 10 years of age will not be permitted to ride. All passengers and crew will need to sign a release and return prior to the trip (not the day of). Additional information on the release will be sent as soon as possible." I was now ready to complete the hotel reservations for my trip then finished the school year and I was set to go!

I slept longer than normal before packing then drove to the Santa Ana station to start my second longest train trip that I had undertaken.

Pacific Surfliner 763 arrived on time with the ever-smiling conductor Marisol who took my ticket to start me on this journey. Our train was pulled by F59PHI 462, business class 6852, café 6300, coach 6406, business class 6204 as a coach and cab car 6851. I read USA Today and relaxed to Los Angeles on a very overcast June morning, where we arrived at LAUPT three minutes early and I walked down to a bench to wait for the Coast Starlight. The Southwest Chief arrived from Chicago at 9:10 AM, only 50 minutes late, on its trek from Chicago.

The train reversed into the station and the sleeping car attendant Terry Ray was putting the finishing touches to our car. About fifteen minutes later, he opened the door to the "Ohio" and I boarded room 9 and set up my room before photographing our train. Our consist was Caltrain F-59PHI 2011, P42DC's 171 and 72, baggage 1252, transition 39022, sleepers 32071 "Arizona", 32013 "Ohio" and 32118 "Wyoming", Pacific Parlour Car 39974, diner 38042, lounge 33030 and coaches 34041, 34508 kiddie, 34113 and 34106. We departed on time and Ken Ruben, who was riding in coach to Oxnard, joined me in my room for a visit until after Glendale. I visited the Pacific Parlour Car for some cinnamon rolls which I took back to my room and listened to Yes' "Live From Osaka" while reading John Grisham's "Last Juror".

After the usual three meets with Metrolink trains and Pacific Surfliner 774, we arrived at Simi Valley, where Bob Riskie had bicycled down to see me off and to wish we me luck. We were on time for the first time in days but I had to wonder how long that would last? Back on the move again, I walked back to the lounge car to talk with Ken until he departed at Oxnard then we made our way to Santa Barbara and later passed a Union Pacific freight at Ellwood, then went into the siding at Capitan for Union Pacific 5703 East holding the main because he was too long. He could have thrown the east switch for us, but did not, so that cost us some extra time.

The Starlight ran through the brush fire zone from last week and the repaired trestle that had the line shut down for eight days. We ran around Point Conception and through a foggy Vandenberg Air Force Base to Narlon, where we waited fifteen minutes for the Union Pacific dispatcher to issue new track warrants then continued to East San Luis Obispo, where we sat for another eighteen minutes before moving up the southbound main, all due to freight train congestion.

After a very lengthy crew change and then respotting the diner for watering, we departed San Luis Obispo at 4:50 PM {3:43 PM} then at 5:00 PM, passed California Polytechnic University and I was called in to dinner. I enjoyed a New York steak from menu 5 and a sundae as the train climbed Cuesta Grade and descended through Templeton, where we met the late southbound Coast Starlight. I went to the Pacific Parlour Car theater for the showing of "Calendar Girls", a very good film, as we made our way down the Salinas Valley then detrained at a cool Salinas for a fresh air break, one hour and fifteen minutes late. I listened to Trevor Rabin, a former guitarist of Yes then after Watsonville, made my bed and called it a night.

6/18/2004 Waking up north of Redding two-and-a-half hours late, I went to the Pacific Parlour Car for our trek up the Sacramento River Canyon and we passed two Union Pacific freight in the sidings waiting for us to pass, then were stopped at Delta by Union Pacific 5805 West, which was too long for the siding. After some pleasant conversations in the Parlour Car, I went to breakfast of French Toast and sausage as we held the mainline at Sims the entire time for Union Pacific 5039 West. It was then announced that Union Pacific 5039 had to set out a car at the next siding of Conant, creating a backlog of four trains that were now waiting to get by. Union Pacific 5081 West was first, followed by Union Pacific 4258 and then Union Pacific 4895 West with Norfolk Southern and CSX locomotives. At least we were stopped at a beautiful location along the Sacramento River as we waited. Once we resumed our journey, the Castle Crags and Mount Shasta stood out beautifully in the morning skies as we approached Dunsmuir, from where we departed at 8:50 AM {5:04 AM}.

The Starlight climbed out of the Sacramento River valley at Cantara Loop and proceeded up the grade to Mount Shasta City. At Mott, Union Pacific 5698 West was holding the main as we passed and I returned to the Parlour Car to one of my favourite comfortable chairs for the trip to Klamath Falls. At Penoyar, we took the siding for Union Pacific 5445 West and when we were north of Bray, it was announced that passengers connecting to the Empire Builder in Portland would be bussed to their train from Klamath Falls. That is why I am going all rail to Seattle with a night in a hotel. I was bussed once, never to be repeated. As we entered Klamath Falls, our conductor said, "The Union Pacific has too many chiefs and not enough Indians to keep their trains moving!" After some fresh air, we departed at 12:04 PM {8:26 AM}.

I napped to Chemult where there was BNSF 5451 West waiting at the junction for us to clear then after doing a double stop, we departed Chemult at 1:31 PM {9:40 AM} and at 2:28 PM, entered the Cascade Summit Tunnel then started our descent to Oakridge. We made it to Heather where signal problems brought the Coast Starlight to a stop and after a few miles of dark signals, we finally reached a green signal and returned to track speed to Eugene, a fresh air stop, from where we departed at 4:53 PM {12:44 PM}. We ran to Shedd where we met a late southbound Coast Starlight as I was having a repeat of last night's dinner before going to the Parlour Car theater to see "Along came Polly". As I watched the movie, we went into the siding at Marion for yet another westbound Union Pacific freight and stopped at Salem at 6:50 PM {2:03 PM} then continued north to Labish, where we met Amtrak Cascades 507 then went into the siding at Gervais for Union Pacific 5726 West. We were delayed a further twelve minutes at the Steel Bridge before reaching Portland Union Station, leaving the rails of the Union Pacific behind.

Now a BNSF train, we departed Portland at 8:43 PM {4:05 PM} then ran north to the Willbridge drawbridge, where we sat waiting for it to close after the passage of river traffic. We crossed the Columbia River at 9:11 PM into Vancouver, Washington and I was still reading the "Last Juror" until we came to North Vancouver, where we stopped to wait for a BNSF freight to pass then decided to take a nap as we rolled the miles north.

6/19/2004 Midnight came and went before we reached Tacoma, departing there at 12:20 AM {7:05 PM} then the Coast Starlight ended this trip of many delays with a good final sprint to Seattle, arriving at 1:06 AM {8:30 PM} or four hours and thirty-six minutes late. As a result, I would be making a same-day connection to the Empire Builder in Seattle.

I detrained and walked through the station to a waiting taxi to the Kings Inn for what was left of the night and stayed in bed until 7:30 AM then walked to MacDonald's for the usual hot cakes and sausage breakfast then to Ralphs. I later called home before calling Let's Talk Trains then after watching a little television, checked out and walked down to the waterfront to see Amtrak Cascade 517, the Seattle Waterfront Trolley and I hoped some BNSF action, all of which I received. I walked north to Board Street to catch the trolley down to near King Street Station.

I walked down to Royal Brougham Way, crossing to wait for Amtrak Cascades 507 to depart at 1:14 PM, which was followed by BNSF 2965 then returned to King Street Station via the Stadium Market for some supplies before waiting for my next train.

The Empire Builder arrived at 3:55 PM and consisted of P42DCs 153 and 171, baggage 1261, transition 39009, sleepers 32110 "Tennessee" and 32079 "Georgia", diner 38011 and coaches 34037 and 31513 (former smoker). The 171 had been on the point of my northbound Starlight from Oakland. The train was boarded at 4:10 with me having room 7 in the "Georgia" with my sleeping attendant Prince. One thing I do not understand is why, when a car is painted in the new Amtrak scheme, they lose their state names on the outside, as well as the large "Superliner" lettering.

Inside the room, beside the usual Empire Builder timetable, was a 75-year Empire Builder route guide, "Along the Trail of Lewis and Clark" and "Glacier, the Complete Guide to the Park", one of my favourite places. I love the many glacier areas of the park. We departed Seattle on time before plunging into the tunnel under downtown.

The Empire Builder ran along the shore of Puget Sound through Edmonds and Everett, where it turned inland to cross the Cascade Mountains at Stevens Pass. We had an excellent Rail to Trails presentation to Wenatchee and another the next day from Whitefish to Shelby. I had dinner with a couple going to Milwaukee then onto Sturgeon Bay. The number 5 dinner menu was being offered again, so it would be the same meal once more, but different scenery and company. The steak was cooked in a sauce this time, for a different taste. We met a BNSF freight at Baring and proceeded through Skykomish.

The train started up the 2.2 percent grade for twelve miles then turned south to cross the Moss River on a curved trestle, a most impressive scene.

We continued our climb to the West Portal of the 7.79 mile long Cascade Tunnel, completed in 1929, which is the longest railroad tunnel in the United States.

As we passed through the bore, I made my way to the last car to photograph the East Portal, after which we descended through Icicle Canyon, passed through Cashmere before arriving at Wenatchee, our early evening fresh air stop.

On the move again, we joined the Columbia River before we crossed it at Rock Island then ran along the east shore for several miles before climbing out of the Columbia River Valley on a very interesting twilight climb then proceeded east to Spokane and once the twilight turned to night, I called it an evening.

6/20/2004 I awoke at Libby, Montana and went downstairs for a refreshing shower then walked back through the Portland section to acquire the consist, which was lounge 33048, coaches 34085 and 31014 (former smoker) and sleeper 32022. This was the first day of summer and even at 5:30 AM, it was light enough to see the beautiful scenery as we ran along the Kootenai River. We left the river behind at Riverview and climbed the relocated line due to the construction of the Libby Dam then followed the Fisher River to the seven-mile-long Flathead Tunnel, the second longest railroad tunnel in the country, before pausing at Rock Creek to let the tunnel vent before we entered the long bore. I sat down for breakfast with the same couple I had dinner with last night, then excused myself for a picture.

Exiting Flathead Tunnel. Breakfast was waiting on the table and it was another great meal of French Toast and sausage and we continued to our next station at Whitefish, Montana.

I detrained for a picture of the complete Empire Builder then we made our way east to Columbia Falls, crossed the Flathead River at Coram before travelling to West Glacier {Belton}.

I rode in the lounge car all the way to East Glacier, crossing a very beautiful Marias Pass with me acting as a tour guide for my new friends.

I excused myself for a few pictures along the way. After a fresh air stop at East Glacier, I returned to my room as we crossed the Two Medicine River bridge and started relaxing for the rest of the day then detrained at Shelby, along with the tour group who was doing a Lewis and Clark trip, and visited the station there adding it to the list of stations I have been in. Early in the afternoon, we arrived at Havre where I detrained for an ice cream sandwich on a very pleasant day.

The Empire Builder continued rolling eastward with me still reading "Last Juror" and listening to music. The only excitement on this very quiet afternoon was when the train set off a dragging detector alarm and had to be inspected before we reached Glasgow. More fresh air was taken at Wolf Point on a very windy afternoon.

Later we arrived at the next fresh air stop of Williston and I visited the station there. As of the last timetable change in April, all Superliner trains were now non-smoking with smoking breaks, or as I call them, fresh air breaks. The cars which were used as lounges are still on the trains and I think that Amtrak needs to convert these cars to low-level seating to increase revenue, or turn them into bicycle-carrying cars so passengers would not have to box their bicycles.

There was more excitement just east of Stanley, North Dakota, as we lost head end power for about fifteen minutes before stopping to fix it. "Remember every trip is an adventure!" At 9:00 PM Central Daylight Time, I finished my book and it was an excellent story. Right at sunset we made it to Minot and I enjoyed our last fresh air stop of the evening and saw the fifty-five paintball hits from when some idiots hit the train with paintballs west of Skykomish last night. I read the North Dakota Empire Builder route guide I picked up in the station and listened to some more music before calling it a night.

6/21/2004 I awoke just outside of the Twin Cities at 6:00 AM and went to the dining car for French Toast and bacon as we passed the shops where Milwaukee Road 261 is kept on the way to Midway Station. Here, the train was serviced and two Express Cars, 71258 and 71272, as well as two Road Railers, 462127 and 462162, were added to our train. Due to BNSF's excellent train handling, we arrived thirty five minutes early and my friends and I staked out our spot in the lounge car for the journey along the Mississippi River. We departed Midway on time and proceeded to St. Paul, where I had my first view of Canadian Pacific Empress 2816 laying over at Canadian Pacific Railway's Pig Eye Yard. I cannot wait to ride behind her in a couple of weeks! This was the first time I had seen the Canadian Pacific Railway side of the river in complete daylight, as my only other eastbound trip was eight hours late when we arrived at this point. We then crossed the Mississippi River before Hastings and made our way to Red Wing.

South of Red Wing, we paralleled Lake Pepin and where the river curved away the tracks, the train ran straight across the floodplain then crossed the Whitewater River as it sprinted towards Winona and cruised along Lock and Dam 5. I took a fresh air break at Winona and minutes later, we passed Lock and Dam 7 then ducked under Interstate 90 before crossing the Mississippi River and entering Wisconsin, stopping at La Crosse, our next fresh air stop. Back on the move again, I prepared my materials for the steam excursion tomorrow and my hotel tonight, as we passed through the only tunnel of the day at Tunnel City before arriving at Tomah. I had a lunch of an Angus beef burger and a sundae with my new friends that lasted through Wisconsin Dells.

At Columbus, a passenger forgot that it was his stop, but his attendant saved the day with a public address announcement to the conductor. I had gone from a sunny Mississippi River to a gloomy Wisconsin rainy day. I said my goodbye to my new friends and wished them well. Milwaukee Road 261 greeted me at Milwaukee, but was hidden behind a freight train. During the final fresh air break of the trip, I ran into Don Crimmen of the Friends of the 261, who was working on this trip. We were now off for our final sprint to Chicago, with a stop at Glenview. Due to some slow running on Metra due to track work, we arrived at Chicago Union Station a mere thirteen minutes late, ending an excellent trip on the Empire Builder. Special thanks to both BNSF and Canadian Pacific Railway for excellent train-handling.

I went to the food court for a pair of Gold Coast Char Dogs and a new word fill puzzle book before going to the north boarding area of Chicago Union Station to wait for my train back to Milwaukee.

Since I had now ridden the whole Empire Builder route in a sleeping car, I took the next train back to Milwaukee to be in position to ride Milwaukee Road 261 back to Chicago tomorrow. This train had P42DC 179, Horizon coaches 54048, 51501, 54556 and 54580 with cabbage car 90208. We boarded fifteen minutes early and made an on-time departure while I listened to music and did word fill-ins on this very rainy afternoon. One good thing about riding this route both ways today is that I was getting a good feel for it.

After arriving early, I detrained and found the rain had stopped so I walked to the Ramada Inn via the bridge that overlooked the steam engine and checked in. After stowing my bags in my room, I walked back over to the train and recorded the consist for our trip to Chicago then talked to the crew and was invited into the cab of 261. Following that exciting moment, I walked over to the Hilton to check my e-mail before returning to my room for the night.

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