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The Montana Rockies Daylight - Sandpoint to Livingston 8/24/2003



by Chris Guenzler

The bus picked us up at 8:45 AM for the ten minute drive to the train in Pomeray. We were boarded in Big Sky service for our eastbound trip and were seated in the lounge area of Denver and Rio Grande Western dome car, which still had its herald on the door window at the B end of the car. In Big Sky Service, one could sit in one of the three dome cars with that wonderful 360 degree panoramic view of the beautiful landscape. Seats in First Class seating on the lower level had nice comfortable lounge chairs with large side windows so you never miss anything. Lunch was in the dining car served on china in one of two seatings, as well as being waited on by the friendly staff at your seat. They gave each passenger a keepsake "Big Sky" lapel pin and all passengers had access to the lounge car for bar and gift services.





After getting settled in Big Sky Class, I explored and soon discovered this was a former Rio Grande car.





At 9:25 AM PDT, we reversed out of the storage spur.





Stored coaches being rebuilt and used for parts.





After a switch was thrown, we proceeded through the connection to the MRL siding at Kootenai to wait for BNSF 4963 West. Once it flew by, the Montana Rockies Daylight started east through the forests to our crossing of Lake Pend Orielle.





It was a beautiful clear morning and we travelled along the Clark Fork River, went through the Cabinet Tunnel and slowed for photographs by the Cabinet Gorge Dam before crossing back into Montana.





Lake Pond Oreille was really beautiful and the islands only made it more so!





The wetlands along the lake looked great in the morning light.





Near Colby, the rock formation on the far canyon walls caught my eye, then as we neared the Noxon Dam, my mother and I went to the dining car for lunch.





We sat down to a table with a couple from north of Philadelphia and were very impressed to have a white tablecloth, a vase with a flower, real china and silverware. From the menu above, I chose Homesteader's Pork Roast and my mother had the Fresh Idaho Rainbow Trout, while we passed the Noxon Reservoir. Liz was our server and Stacy was the helper, with Connie working the other side of the dining car and the meal was served in the "Grand Tradition" of dining on the rails. It came with a choice of complimentary beverage, either wine, beer or soda. It was an excellent meal and really hit the spot.





After lunch, I rode in the dome for a while along the Clark Fork River to Paradise, enjoying the ever-changing views which would have been had by passengers riding the North Coast Limited.





The Montana Daylight rounding another curve on the river side.





There was a tight turn as we approached Paradise, Milepost 219.0, where we would be running via St. Regis to Missoula, so I would be getting that route's new mileage, which made me very happy.





The Northern Pacific Paradise station.





Starting today's new mileage, we crossed the Clark Fork River at MP 218.7 on a combination through truss and deck plate girder bridge, at a length of 878 feet and built in 1908, on our way to St. Regis and De Smet.





The rear of the train leaving Paradise and just crossed the bridge.





The Flathead River Canyon through which we came west.





The Clark Fork River created this beautiful canyon we travelled to St. Regis.





I returned to the vestibule and to the left was the confluence of the Flathead and Clark Fork Rivers. We started our journey to St. Regis by going through the 1,750 foot Quinn Tunnel at Milepost 215.1, then passed by the siding at Quinn, Milepost 214.2, with hand-thrown switches on both ends. Next we passed through the 1,121 foot Dolon Tunnel number 9 at MP 212.8 and the 189 foot long tunnel number 8, at Milepost 211.8, followed by traversing the Clark Fork River four times in the next four miles. Bridge 210 was 681 feet long, bridge 209 was 375 feet long, bridge 208 was 512 feet long and bridge 207 was the longest at 716 feet.





The river was really beautiful.





The views continued to become more unique.





We entered the last remaining area of semaphore signals on Montana Rail Link.





Curving towards a straight track, followed by another curve.





One more curve, then it was tangent track into St. Regis.





Entering St. Regis, Milepost 197.2, we were greeted by this unique semaphore signal, and were now on what was once the Northern Pacific's Couer d'Alene Branch completed in 1891 from De Smet to Wallace, Idaho, to access Idaho's Silver Valley. The Burlington Northern abandoned the line west of St. Regis in 1980.





We passed the siding at Toole, Milepost 201.9, then the active Royal Logging Spur at MP 198.47. Two miles later, we crossed the St. Regis River before it emptied into the Clark Fork River.





Our train ducked under Interstate 90.





The Montana Daylight has passed through St. Regis and has turned east, still following the Clark Fork River. The former Milwaukee Road bridge can be seen in the distance.





We would be following the former Milwaukee Road grade from St. Regis to Garrison and it was visible across the Clark Fork River.





Spring Gulch, Milepost 188.8.





Remains of a derailment from years ago.





We went into the siding at Superior at Milepost 183.6 for BNSF 8844 West, a loaded coal train. Once on the move again, we crossed Cedar Creek before reaching Cedars at Milepost 179.62 then we gained some elevation from the Clark Fork River to Westfall, Milepost 176.2.





Our route and the Clark Fork River next entered Alberton Gorge with its Class IV rapids, where we plunged into the 110 foot Quartz tunnel before crossing Quartz Creek at Milepost 169.5 on a seven-span 323 foot long deck plate girder bridge 114 feet above the stream. The Montana Daylight next passed the siding at Rivulet, Milepost 176.6, then at Milepost 165.2, crossed Fish Creek Trestle, whose nine-span deck plate girder bridge is 576 long and 144 feet high, built in 1914. The bridge was used in the Steven Segal film "Under Siege 2, Dark Territory". We ducked under the Interstate 90 highway bridge and the former Milwaukee Road bridge across the Clark Fork came into view on the left, after which we reached Cyr, Milepost 161.2, exiting the Alberton Gorge, the scenic highlight of the day.





The rear of the Montana Daylight passing a rock outcropping. As we were back in the large vicinity of the forest fires, smoke permeated the views, making my photographs have a reddish tint.





Mike Phillips then found me and gave me a tour of Vista-Dome "Bella Vista", ex. Rail Ventures 1999, exx. Northwestern Pacific Railroad 1997-1998, exxx. Union Pacific "Native Son" 800212 1984, exxxx. Golden Spike Rail Tours, exxxxx. David Rohr 1983, exxxxxx. Anbel 2041 1981, exxxxxxxx. Auto Train 905, nee Union Pacific 9006, built by American Car and Foundry in 1955. It was initially assigned to the "City of Portland" train which ran between Chicago and Portland, Oregon.

This car carries Gold Service passengers, of which today there was one. For Gold Class, you get a luxury transfer to the train and a champagne welcome reception and would have a personal staff of a chef and sleeping car attendant. A passenger would spend two days and nights aboard the Montana Daylight and there is a panoramic private vista dome and a covered rear open platform. Breakfast, lunch and dinner for the two-day trip is served in a private dining salon. Mid-afternoon tea is served each afternoon and early-evening cocktails with elegant hors d'oeuvre is available. You also get the full complimentary beverage service. Sleeping cabins come in two varieties; upper/lower cabins and queen suites. It would really be a first-class rail experience to be riding Montana Daylight Gold Class.





The Bella Vista's dome.





The Clark Fork River as seen from the rear platform.





Near Schilling, Milepost 132.2, our train took full advantage of the straight track.





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The full train as seen from the rear platform. From just east of Cyr to De Smet, I enjoyed the views from the covered rear open platform and at Milepost 157, we went through the 350 foot Philemon Tunnel. A few miles later, we crossed the Clark Fork River for the last time before entering the Missoula Valley, which was almost clear of smoke. It looked to me as though those rains that fell did a lot of good in clearing the air. We passed though Frenchtown at Milepost 136.6 before travelling to Schilling, which is home to the Smurfit Stone Container Corporation Linerboard Mill, Montana Rail Link's biggest shipper. The Bitterroot Mountains were seen to the south with Lolo Peak at 9,075 feet topping the view. To the north was the 7,999 foot Crazy Women Peak in the Rattlesnake Mountains.





The route over Evaro Hill joined ours and it amazed me that two days ago, you could not see the mountains we went through when we climbed that hill. The Montana Daylight made its way through a few cuts to reach De Smet, where we rejoined the line we left yesterday, which ended my new mileage. I returned to the dome car for the rest of the journey into Missoula.





A Montana Rail Link train in the yard.

Missoula 8/24/2003



My mother and I detrained, receieved our hotel key and boarded the bus for the Holiday Inn Parkside once again. After relaxing, I walked to the Missoula Carousel and back before we went to Nap's Grill for dinner, which specializes in hamburgers, steaks and malts. I walked back to the station for a picture in the sun.





Northern Pacific 1365, after which I returned to the hotel and we spent the evening watching television before calling it a night.

8/25/2003 Up early as usual and down the stairs for yet another continental breakfast, we returned to the room and watched the Weather Channel to see Tropical Storm Ignacio over La Paza, Baja California and I was wondering if the moisture would reach Santa Ana, but it was too early to tell. We went down to the bus and back to the train for our final days ride on the Montana Daylight.

The Montana Daylight 8/25/2003



The train reversed into the station from the overnight storage track and we reboarded the same dome car we were in yesterday and sat in the lounge area ready for our last day. At 7:48 AM ,the Montana Daylight was on the move east on another Montana Big Sky day. My plan was to take photograph scenes I did not on the westbound journey because of the smoke and the rain. East of Torah across the valley, I spotted a set of Milwaukee Road block signals still in place.





The former Milwaukee Road grade paralleled the Northern Pacific and the bottom of the overhead wire poles remain.





Milwaukee Road substation 9 at Ravenna.





Exiting the 896 foot Bonita Tunnel at Milepost 94.4.





Approaching the 908 foot Nimrod Tunnel at Milepost 90.8.





A Milwaukee Road bridge over the Clark Fork River. I wished I could go back in time to this location with a Milwaukee Road Little Joe leading a freight train through the canyon. Note the overhead poles in this and the next few pictures. I could imagine the North Coast Limited racing a Milwaukee Road train through this canyon.





Further down the rails at Gold Creek, Milwaukee Road substation 8 still stands.





We slowed for the 'First Gold Discovery In Montana Made Here' sign at Milepost 58.





Another slowing for the Last Spike marker sign at Milepost 54 on this beautiful clear morning.





Our dining car all set up for lunch in an hour-and-a-half.





The grade stiffened as we climbed towards Mullan Pass.





Each curve provided a photographic opportunity.





The air smelt so clean as we neared the summit. We went though Garrison Tunnel before reaching Garrison where the Butte Line takes off to the south. After that, I went inside the dome car to relax until near Blossburg, then we entered the siding at Elliston to wait for a westbound military train before starting our ascension of the western slope of Mullan Pass.





Our entry into and exit from Mullan Tunnel. Upon exiting, I went to the rear platform for our eastward descent.





Crossing Skyline Trestle at Milepost 18.9.





The view looking down to Austin.





That was followed by our crossing of the 580 foot long and 98 foot high Greenhorn trestle at Milepost 17.5.





Desending the middle level of the Austin Loops.







The Austin trestle.





En route to Weed.





The west and east entrances of the former Weed tunnel.





Jan Taylor had brought a couple of railfans from New Jersey and gave us a local railroad history down to Helena Junction.





We made our way to Helena, only slowing today as we passed through town with the Sleeping Giant to the north.





After Helena, we had the first seating for lunch.





Today's menu, and the four of us at our table, which included the two New Jersey railfans, ordered the Black Angus Medallions. Liz was our server again and was excellent. While we were waiting for our meal, the Montana Daylight went into the siding at Louisville for another westbound freight train. I enjoyed my beef and the dining experience was light years away from anything Amtrak has on their system. The meal was as good as any of the dinner trains I have sampled over the years.





I returned to the dome to enjoy the views. We passed a herd of pronghorn antelope standing next to the fence along the tracks then continued to Townsend, where we met BNSF 9687 on another westbound coal train before proceeding east into the beautiful Missouri River Canyon and I returned to the vestibule.





Above the walkway in the CZ 22 was a reminder of the car's great past.





The signal bridge at East Helena.





Ascending Winston Hill.





Descending Winston Hill.





What a peaceful place it was as we travelled past Mammoth Cold Springs.





The former Milwaukee Road bridge across the Missouri River as we rounded the ten degree curve, the tightest on Montana Rail Link.





The train on a curve above Lombard was beautiful and the birds were much more easily seen.





We continued to Clarkston, Milepost 178.9, where we went into the 8,835 foot siding once more for BNSF 160 West.





The Montana Daylight rounding another curve near Trident and the Missouri River Headwaters Park.





Aquatic waterfowl.





I loved this part of the Missouri River Canyon with its colourful rocks.





I returned to the dome for the trip across the Gallatin Valley to Bozeman, enjoying the Montana Big Sky and the beautiful landscape.





At Logan, we rejoined the Butte Line where an MRL local from Whitehall was sitting, while in the siding was a westbound MRL freight with F45 391 on the point.





The Montana Rail Link Whitehall Local returns to Logan off of the former through line and route that the North Coast Limited took to Butte. After Bozeman, I returned to the vestibule for the climb up Rocky Canyon to the Bozeman Tunnel.





Taking the main track through West End.





The Montana Daylight started its eastward climb to Bozeman Tunnel.





Curving into the tunnel.





Here I returned to the dome.





Exiting Bozeman Tunnel





I returned to the vestibule for a last picture of our train descending the east side of Bozeman Pass.





I enjoyed the rest of the trip in my lounge chair then we took the wye onto the Yellowstone Park Branch so that the train could be reversed into the station and I noticed a Cenex petrol station where unleaded regular was only $1.43, compared to the still-inexpensive $2.09 at home in Santa Ana. We reversed into Livingston Station at 3:40 PM, ending our fantastic journey on the Montana Daylight.

For the last two days, I would like to thank the following people for their outstanding service to us: Liz, Connie and Stacy, the servers in the dining car, the entire kitchen staff for the outstanding food, Ian, our wonderful bartender, Daniel, our guide and gift shop host, Bill and Jan Taylor, our wonderful conductors for the whole trip, as well as the outstanding Mike Phillips. Thanks to the entire onboard staff for an outstanding four days on the train.

My mother and I were on the third bus that went to the Yellowstone Inn for the rental car people, then to Bozeman to drop one passenger at the Value Plus Hotel before our stop at the Best Western GranTree Inn. That brought us to the end of our Montana Rockies Rail Tour.

Bozeman 8/25/2003

Following check-in, we walked a few blocks to Applebee's for dinner then I checked my e-mail in the Business Center. Returning to the room, I watched "Back to the Future 3" then later listened to Ian Anderson's new solo album, "Rupi's Dance" and after watching the news, I called it a night.

8/26/2003 Sleeping in late, I had doughnuts and milk for breakfast before watching a "Police Squad" film followed by the "A-Team". I walked over to Arby's for some roast beef sandwiches for the plane trip home and printed my mother's boarding pass online before we were taken to the Gallitan Airport.

Horizon Air Flight 2328 8/26/2003

We arrived with forty minutes to spare and I used a ticketing machine to get my boarding pass, then it took about five minutes to get to security where both of us were wanded. She thought the sequins on her blouse set off the machine, as did my shoes. I asked if I should take them off beforehand and was told no. We boarded the Bombardier Q400 again with a stopover in Butte on our way to Seattle, taking off at 12:55 MDT and enjoying the former Northern Pacific crossing of Homestake Pass before touching down in Butte at 1:13 PM.

We took off at 1:46 PM and as we crossed Montana, where fewer and smaller fires were still burning, we landed in Seattle at 2:15 PM and gated at C2G then walked over to Gate C1, which was only across the walkway, a very easy connection. I went to the "N" Terminal for more Breyers ice cream, making two complete loops on the Satellite Transit System, then returned to the gate.

Alaska Airlines Flight 8/26/2003

We boarded the 737-700 at 3:53 PM and relaxed until take off, which took place at 4:17 PM. I enjoyed a fantastic view of the east side of Mount St. Helens and Spirit Lake. After clouds all the way into Northern California, I could then spot landmarks and work out our progress towards home. We landed at Orange County at 6:39 PM and twenty minutes later, my brother Jon picked us up and took us to his house, where I drove to Savon drug store to turn in my twelve rolls of slides before driving home, ending a fantastic trip on the Montana Rockies Rail Tour. Back at McFadden Immediate School, I was reunited with Mrs. Carnett and we started the school year working together again.



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