A Ride on the All-Season Verde Canyon Railroad, Clarkdale,
Arizona,
plus an entertaining evening at the Blazin' M Ranch in nearby Cottonwood, Arizona.
February 9, 2011
By Carl Morrison, Carl@TrainWeb.com Italicized paragraphs are from their website and press releases.
http://trainweb.org/carl/VerdeCanyonRailroad2011
Arizona's Longest-Running Nature Show
Verde Canyon RR
No. 1510 and 1512 heading back to Clarkdale, AZ, Depot after a trip to
Perkinsville, AZ, pull the excursion train past a bald eagle preparing
to fly across the tracks to the River.
The
Verde Canyon, featuring an abundance of native flora and fauna, rugged,
high-desert rock faces and spectacular vistas, is only accessible by
rail. As you step aboard this popular excursion, complete with
luxurious coaches and open-air viewing cars pulled by vintage diesel
engines, expect to be captivated by this untouched and unspoiled canyon.
Departure to Perkinsville is scheduled
so passengers may enjoy the progress of daylight as it dances over the
rippling green waters of the Verde River, then tiptoes across the
canyon floor through canopies of foliage before escaping up the
towering canyon walls into the brilliant azure skies of this celebrated
gorge. On the return trip to Clarkdale, the Canyon takes on an entirely
new dimension with further shifting of illumination and shadows.
Expert narration and open-air car
attendants leave you with an appreciation of the history, archeology,
geology, wildlife and Indian lore of the Verde Canyon. Original music
is an integral part of the trip as you make your way through Arizona’s
longest-running nature show.
Getting There
During three days of a February trip from Southern California to
Flagstaff, Arizona, I wondered what I could possibly find in the way of
trains to ride. The Verde
Canyon Railroad and The Grand
Canyon Railroad were the answers, since both are open year
round.
There is a choice of Amtrak trains you can take to the Verde Canyon Railroad at Clarkdale,
Arizona - The Southwest Chief
or
the Sunset Limited. The
Southwest Chief will get you
the closest, at Flagstaff, Arizona:
Distance from
Sunset Limited, Tucson, AZ, to Verde Canyon Railroad;
3
hrs 37 mins / 223.47 miles
Distance from Southwest Chief, Flagstaff,
AZ, to Verde Canyon Railroad;
1 hour 15 mins / 72.28 miles
I was staying at Little America on the east side of Flagstaff and
since the excursion train leaves from Clarkdale at 1 p.m., I had some
options as to how I would get there. I chose to go south of
Flagstaff on 89A, taking the scenic route of about 1 1/2 hrs.
Since I would also be attending the Blazin' M Ranch Chuckwagon Diner and Cowboy Music Show immediately
after the train ride, I chose to take I-17 back to Flagstaff because it
would then be dark and I thought Interstate driving would be easier at
night.
No sooner had I begun driving on 89A south of Flagstaff, than I
encountered a herd of 35 elk in the Ponderosa Pines on my left.
It was a perfect day, bright sun, cold, with some light snow on the
ground from earlier snowfalls. I made a quick U-turn on this
2-lane highway and got a few photos of the herd.
(Throughout this report:
Click any small photo for a double-sized copy on your screen; Click BACK in your browser to return to this page.)
Elk south of I-17/89A jct. south of Flagstaff.
The drive south on 89A was winding through Oak Creek Canyon, but
beautiful views to Sedona with its beautiful red bluffs. South of
Sedona, 89A becomes a 4-lane to Cottonwood.
The Excursion Ride
The Verde Canyon Railroad advertises
something
"Natural" each season. Since I would be there in
Winter, I was looking forward to
Eagle
Watch,
and it turned out that my visit would also be the first day of
Verde
Canyon
Railroad's Chocolate Lovers' Train.
Their Chocolate Lovers' Train runs February 9-14.The
journey features platters of decadent desserts, chocolate fountains
and specialty drinks served up in a comfortable first-class car.
The train runs every day except Tuesdays, departing at 1 p.m. and
returning at 5 p.m.
Location:
Verde Canyon Railroad Train Depot on 300 North Broadway,
Clarkdale, AZ 86324.
My Ride on the Verde Canyon Railroad
Upon my arrival at the Verde Canyon Clarkdale Depot, a full hour
before departure time of 1 pm, I was amazed at how many cars were in
the parking lot already. Even though this train is "in the middle
of nowhere," there ended up being more riders this day than were on the
Grand Canyon Railway the previous day.
I found a parking spot in the large, level lot and crossed the
street to the Depot. I immediately went to the front of the
train, which was purposely positioned for photographs of the eagle
graphics on Locomotives 1510 and 1512.
Canyon to Perkinsville and back.
The engines, built in 1953 by the
Electro-Motive Division of General Motors, first debuted on the Alaska
Railroad for their centennial celebration. Mountain Diesel, a
Colorado-based company, purchased the engines and exhibited them at a
California museum before their purchase by the Wyoming/Colorado
Railroad in Laramie, Wyoming.
In November 1996, the engines were moved to Clarkdale, Arizona.
After three months of restoration the classic iron horses were
decorated with the Bald Eagle as a tribute to the inhabitants of the
Verde Canyon and our American heritage, taking on the symbol of the
Verde Canyon Railroad with their exclusive paint scheme. The
engines made their maiden journey on Arizona rails on March 8, 1997.
Don't you agree that the graphics are the most dramatic and creative of any ever seen on locomotives?
While at the front, I also photographed the Generator Car,
and an 'open air-observation car.'
Passengers actually purchase two seats for the price of one because
all coaches access open-air viewing cars with bench seating, safety
railings and sun shades. Passengers may move about throughout the
trip.
From their press releases: Take
a train trip through a beautiful canyon in central Arizona. The Verde
Canyon Railroad (formerly the Verde Valley Railroad) of Arizona was
originally built to support Arizona's richest copper mine, located in
Jerome. Now visitors enjoy the Verde Canyon Railway excursions to enjoy
a leisurely trip, view the natural surroundings and participate in
special events.
The Rail Cars
The Verde Canyon Railroad has
three types of passenger cars: Pullman Standard, Budd Stainless Steel
and a refurbished AC&F caboose. The Pullman Standard coaches, built
in 1946 and 1947, were originally used in a commuter capacity along the
eastern seaboard. These cars provide both first-class and coach service
on the Verde Canyon line.
Some of the Budd Stainless Steel
cars, built in the late 1930s and ‘40s, once carried passengers along
Santa Fe’s “El Capitan” route between Chicago and Los Angeles. All of
these cars are first-class cars. Dating back to 1938, the Santa Fe Bell
is the oldest car and has been in service longer than any other car on
the train.
Today, each car has an interior
design that incorporates a different element of Arizona. Throughout the
train, the interior murals and faux finishes reveal the desert colors
and countryside of this Southwestern region.
Each rail car is named after an
Arizona city or attraction, such as "Cottonwood" or "Tuzigoot," and the
decor replicates the city or area.
Both classes of travel can access the open air observation cars,
each with a live guide to point out the wildlife and geological
features and recorded description interlaced with music through
speakers.
Since I arrived at noon, one hour before departure, I was not sure
they served food at the depot, but was pleasantly surprised that they
do. Equally surprised that the class in which I would be riding
also would have complimentary appetizers and sparkling wine or
Champagne.
Copper Spike Cafe Menu
Burgers, sandwiches, salads, and desserts. Coffee, tea, and bottled drinks
Boxcar Gift Store open before and after the trip.
Train and logo memorabilia. H-O scale replica of the VCR's FP7s. Train and eagle novelties.
Ticket Windows on the side of the Gift Shop.
Just outside the Gift Shop, south, is this sign where you can compare your wingspan to a bald eagles.
Next is the John Bell Museum.
John rode the VCRR for 10 years sharing stories with riders. This
museum was started with a collection donated by him.
Inside the John Bell Museum
From the
Museum's platform, the "photo opportunity" is to shoot the length of
the train as passengers prepare to board. This view is southward.
Each car is clearly labeled so all passengers can find their seat easily.
Greg Woodward's "Ricochet" Eagle art piece. Note the RR rail and tie as the base. It is between the Gift Shop and Museum.
In the time before departure at 1 pm, I found Lisa O’Neill
877-674-3836 lisa@verdecanyonrr.com, and she gave me a tour
through the entire train, starting with the caboose.
The
exclusive caboose is designed for one party of six or less adults. Its
luxurious interior features oversize chairs near panoramic windows and
access to private outdoor viewing platforms.
Two cupola seats
afford a bird’s eye view of the Canyon rarely seen by one without
wings. A personal valet pours Champagne upon boarding and serves
sumptuous, freshly-made appetizers. A choice of premium alcoholic
beverages is available for purchase throughout the trip.
Lisa O'Neill starting my tour through the caboose, above.
Right, Lisa with Brandy, a Naturalist who rides one of the open air cars pointing out natural wonders and wildlife.
Inside the caboose.
Cupola, right, offers a unique 360 degree view.
Coach-class service features vintage
Pullman-style seating, the historic seating arrangement that has
characterized train travel from its inception. All seats are near large
panoramic windows.
Convenient, fully-stocked food and
beverage centers have snacks, drinks and some alcoholic beverages for
purchase throughout the trip.
With comfortable seating indoors and
high-backed benches on the open-air cars, it is like getting two seats
for the price of one. These special gondolas feature
comfortable benches with backs and wide handrails for ease in walking.
Shaded canopies and the moderate Arizona temperatures of the Verde
Canyon make it possible for passengers to enjoy the open-air viewing
cars in all seasons.
The cars become one with nature as you immerse yourself in the sights and sounds exclusive to this part of scenic Arizona.
Knowledgeable car attendants are
quick to spot points of interest along the route, including the
resident Bald Eagles “Black and Decker.” Photo opportunities abound
with 360 degrees of visual interest around every bend.
Because
the caboose has its own platform, they don't have access to the open
car next in line. We stepped down and then onto the next car.
They thought
out the open air car design perfectly. You might wonder why it is
not completely covered. You need the open space to look straight
up the can walls and into the sky to look for eagles flying
above. I spent most of my time out here.
The coach cars have movable seat backs so that on the way up and back you will always be facing forward.
First-class service (below) includes comfortable love seats or bistro-style chair-and-table seating near panoramic windows.
Along with spacious accommodations,
first-class amenities include a Champagne toast upon boarding,
full-service cash bars featuring premium liquors, beverage service at
your seat and a variety of complimentary appetizers reflecting the
Southwest region. First-class cars accommodate fewer passengers inside
and outdoors.
With comfortable seating indoors and
high-backed benches on the open-air cars, it is like getting two seats
for the price of one.
Arizona wines are served at the bars on the train.
Noticeable improvements in accommodations as you move up from coach class.
The car in which the Chocolate Lovers would ride.
The Car Assistant was pouring sparkling cider and Champagne for our departure.
The decorations
were more festive and the chocolate fountain, right, was about to begin
flowing. Lisa said this was a real challenge on a train!
The mirrors in the ceiling of the Chocolate Lover's Car made it look like a double-decked galley car.
During the car tour, Lisa pointed out the freight locomotives of the Clarkdale Arizona Central Railroad that also run on this line.
Freight from
the company that is going through the slag from the smelter for
valuable minerals goes north to Drake, AZ, where this line meets the
BNSF line, 38 miles north.
Our car attendant explained all the rules, such as being able to go out on the open-air car any time. She sold the Rail the
official magazine of the Verde Canyon Railroad for only $2. I
strongly recommend you buy one, if not only for the Rail Guide by
Milepost. She also sold Verde Canyon Chocolate Rocks, right, for
only $5, available only on the train.
"Arizona ROCKS!"
My
seat mates were Linda and John from Simcoe, Ontario, Canada.
He was born in Niagara Falls, so had some interesting stories about the
Falls.
The company that is currently recovering minerals from the slag pile.
Just north of the Depot is the 50 million tons of slag that covers 40 acres, 40 ft. high.
Right, we went through an underpass over which slag cars carried molten slag out and dumped it on the pile.
Iron
pipes were used with sheet iron to keep the molten slag from covering
the tracks. When cooled, it is very hard and the pipes and
corrugated sheets are just rusting away now.
Horses graze below the slag mountain today, so I guess it is not a toxic mountain.
We head north with the private caboose at the end.
Soon the observation car guides point out the Sinagua Indian cliff dwellings.
You'll need a telephoto lens for shots like this and of wildlife and bluff formations.
When I saw this field, I realized that farmers used water from the Verde River for irrigating their fields.
This and another fellow were still out here when we returned. That's how 'fun' farming is.
Notice that there is an outdoor car for each passenger car.
The highest and longest trestle on the route is the one that spans S.O.B. Canyon, approximately 150 feet above the landscape.
Since S.O.B. Canyon was named before my birth, I presume it was not named after me!
Carol pointed out an eagles nest high on the cliff across the Verde River.
There are many opportunities, as the train enters the inner canyon, to photograph both the front and back of the train.
The Verde River Canyon is quite a beautiful place even in the 'dead of winter.'
Carol, left, our open car attendant was always pointing out geological and wildlife photo ops.
It is very difficult to photograph bald eagles in flight in the canyon, but you'll see them between December and March.
At Milepost
22.5, a 680-foot tunnel that was blasted through limestone by a crew of
25 Swedes was completed in 6 months. The whole line took 250 men
and 200 mules one year to level and lay the track.
"Shooting the Moon."
Just through the tunnel, we came out into Perkinsville valley and crossed a large steel bridge.
The end of the
line, Perkinsville, AZ. Originally a water tower stop for steam
until 1952. Limestone was quarried and made into slaked lime for
the copper smelter in Clarkdale until the smelter closed.
Originally a 770 square mile ranch. in the 1960s, some scenes
from How The West Was Won were shot here. The locomotives run around the train and pull us back to Clarkdale. Station is original.
Station from the left side of the train.
Right, a good
chance to photograph No. 1512 and 1510 is when the locomotives run
around the train at Perkinsville. Be ready on the right to
photograph the locomotives on the right side of an open air car.
The train pulls through town a piece, before heading south, so all cars can see the Depot.
Some
"Canazonians" (Canadian natives who have property in Arizona).
Enjoyed talking farming with the fellow on the left since I was born
and raised on a farm in Southern Indiana.
"Rust in Peace in Perkinsville"
Perkinsville Depot and rotting platform.
With the sun
lower in the western sky as we returned to Clarkdale, the still water
in the Verde River reflected the colorful bluffs.
The caboose became the first car on our way back.
We again crossed the bridge over S.O.B. Canyon, and, right, the shadows were longer of me on the open air car.
The Verde Canyon Railroad has a great system for spotting wildlife and
forwarding the location to the open air car attendants. The
engineer in the lead locomotive keeps his eyes out for eagles and when
he sees one, he radios the car attendants who immediately notify the
guests who are in the open air cars. Since the eagles have
favorite trees, their actions are somewhat predictable. They are
still far away for photographs, even with a telephoto lens, but I'll
add some eagle photos below mine that were submitted to a contest by
the VCRR and offered to me by Ellen Roberts of VCRR.
Looking down on the Verde River from the train gives a good vantage point for reflections in the water.
Award winning Bald Eagle Photos submitted to to a photo contest by Verde Canyon Railroad
Photo by: Tony Cyphert
Photo by: Elizabeth Rose
The best I
could do was to include the train with the eagle graphic under a Bald
Eagle ready to take flight across the track to the Verde River for some
sushi.
Remaining sights along the track back to Clarkdale.
This farmer was still irrigating his fields.
Sinagua Indian ruins
Sinagua Indian ruins
Back in Clarkdale, at the VCRR Depot, it was time to go to my next destination for the day, the Blazin' M Ranch.
What an excellent train riding experience I had on the Verde Canyon
Railroad on this winter day. It was beautiful weather, sunny,
dry, and cool. The entire staff of the train were obviously proud
of the VCRR.
I was pleasantly surprised when I saw what great ridership they
have, and how many cars make up the consist, each car having an
adjacent open air car for the guests. on board amenities were
just perfect including restrooms, a car attendant, food, a naturalist
who points out geological, historical, and wildlife aspects of the
trip. The depot and accompanying shops and museum were
surprisingly new and up to date with ADA compliance in all areas, even
on the train.
The VCRR ride alone would be an excellent day's activity, but the
Verde Canyon Railroad and the Blazin' M Ranch have the same management
company and cross-promote the two venues. So, I still had
something, that I really enjoy, to look forward to the same evening
after my train ride -- The Blazin' M Ranch Chuckwagon Dinner and Cowboy
Music Show!
I received a testimonial from Lisa O'Neill at VCRR soon after this story was posted. She said:
Geeze, Carl, what a flattering article. Incredible photos! I can't wait to see what you did at the Blazin' M Ranch.
Thanks for spending a day on the rails with us! It's not the destination, it's the journey!
Lisa O'Neill Marketing and Sales Verde Canyon Railroad and Blazin' M Ranch 877-674-3836 Reservations 800-293-7245 300 North Broadway Clarkdale, AZ 86324 Join us on Facebook: