Tehachapi Rare Mileage on the Coast
Starlight, Sunday, June 22, 2008
Los Angeles to Sacramento with rare mileage from Burbank Junction
to Bakersfield.
Rail Travelogue by Carl Morrison, Carl@TrainWeb.com, Comments
welcomed.
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connection does not load all photos, click here.
This unusual trip on
the
Coast Starlight on
Sunday, June 22, 2008, started for me in Fullerton, CA, as I boarded
the
Surfliner 763, the
connector train from the south to the
Coast
Starlight in Los Angeles.
The
unusual part of the trip
was the route which the
Coast
Starlight would take: Not the traditional coastline route,
but instead through Tehachapi, California, Bakersfield, and the Central
Valley, a route not taken by a passenger train for 35 years, some were
saying.
Tehachapi Loop
We entered on the high-level track on the left, rounded the hill
descending as se went, entered a cut, leaving through a tunnel under
the entry track.
Tom Anderson stood on the platform in Fullerton as I arrived. He
was
explaining procedures to a couple, new to train travel, who were going
to Santa Barbara on this same
Surfliner
763. Tom and I rode to LA in the less crowded Superliner car that
was in the consist. He had a coach seat on the Coast Starlight
for this historical trip,
and I had a sleeper. We were both headed for Sacramento and a
room at the Vagabond Inn, within walking distance from the Station.
Coast Starlight
in Los Angeles ready to head to Seattle via Tehachapi, California
(Click any photo below to see
a
double-sized image; Click BACK in your browser to return to this page.)
At LA, we walked into the station for a breakfast bagel and noticed
Sleeper Passengers were being directed to the TRAXX bar just inside the
LA Station from Alameda St. where their luggage was tagged for loading,
or stored. Eventually the Sleeper Passengers were escorted to the
train or Red Caps took them. There were early announcements
not to go to the platform
until the call to board was made....perhaps some rail buffs were
crowding the platform.
Andy Smith had e-mailed me that a private
car, The Silver Solarium, would be at the end of this train, and he had
come down from
Sacramento on it and was returning there on it as well. They
would
go through the Tehachapi Loop as well...perhaps the reason for being on
this specific train. Andy walked into the LA Station's Great Hall
just as we were heading out to the platform, so I had a quick
conversation with him on our way out to track 11.
California Zephyr
Silver Solarium on the Coast Starlight
in Los Angeles Station.
Above left, a couple
of folks I enjoyed champagne with orange juice, (left) Cathleen Schamp,
Rail
Specialist with Irvine Travel, 714-838-0539; and (right) Charles
Varnes, who writes for Wheel Clicks the
Pacific RR Society Newsletter, 909-599-7369.
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Palmdale had some historic buildings.
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Skunk Works
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Joshua Trees dotted the desertscape.
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12:05, we passed
Stored Metrolink trains at Lancaster. 12:15 power started going
off and on, including air conditioning. I counted 7 times that it
went off and back on, then quit counting. Later someone said we
lost one locomotive and it was replaced in Stockton. UP detector
396.1 said we were doing 65 mph, north of Lancaster.`
Cars continued to pace the train, some with movie cameras. A
testament to America's interest in passenger trains, especially when
they take an unusual route through California. A nice road
paralleled the tracks on the west side of the tracks for this activity.
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Evidence of mining from yesteryear.
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We passed a freight
in Palmdale and on the scanner he said, "Up in the loop, they're
already camped out up there."
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Plane storage at Mojave-Palmdale-Lancaster Area.
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At Mojave, CA, with
20 miles to Tehachapi, folks began to get excited because the
Tehachapi Loop would be upon us soon. Milepost Detector
328.6 said, "No Defects, 54 mph, 101 degrees."
I had a 12:45 lunch reservation in the
Parlour Car. Shawn was the attendant and was trying his best to
keep up. Salads are available for lunch there. I ordered
the carnberry walnut salad. It took Shawn some time to deliver
it, and I was worried I'd be here when we reached the loop, so when I
saw him bringing it, I asked if I could take it to my room and he
quickly popped on a plastic cover and off I went. Therefore, I
was in my Room B having my salad as we approached the loop.
Before I left the
Parlour Car, we went through the town of Tehachapi where I noticed that
the RR building had burned. Matt Meltzer, sitting in front of me
in the Parlour Car, said the city fathers had already said they'd
rebuild it.
12:37 Mojave detector said: "377.0 Milepost, Track 2, "Integrity
Failure," 93 degrees, 30 mph" The engineer radioed the Dispatcher
and asked what that meant since nothing had followed the "Integrity
Failure" message. (I'd never heard this on a scanner, only "No
Defects."
She asked, "Do you have passengers?" (None have gone through here
for years, so she was obviously surprised.) The engineer
responded, "Yes Ma'am." She said, "Proceed at 30 mph, and check
the next detector." He closed with, "Thanks, we've been enjoying
all the green lights."
We had a red signal for a freight before the loop, but the detector
after the loop at MP 347, said, "No Defects," and 90 degrees.
Tehachapi Loop (below). We
entered on the high-level track on the left, rounded the hill
descending as se went, entered a cut, leaving through a tunnel under
the entry track.
After the loop, I
walked back to coach to see Tom Anderson. That gave me a
different view of our train going around curves, where I could see more
than just the locomotives:
Back in my
room, more of the rear of the train was visible.
(Right) Some of the tunnels were so short you could see the other
end before you entered them.
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2:30 pm Caliente,
CA, which we would see from high above south of town, held a
real treat. Not only the view of the town, but the southbound
Coast Starlight was waiting there to pass us. We got an
aerial-type view of a Coast Starlight, also with a private car.
It was pretty much a mirror of our train:
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There were a number of foamers there as well.
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At 2:50, soon after
Caliente, we leveled off and followed the route
through orange groves and orange packing houses along Hwy.
The last milepost detector in this area said, "Milepost Detector
318.89, Track 2, 60 axels, 59 mph 'No Defects'." Previous
detector has said 101 degrees.
We rolled into Bakersfield veerrry slowly and about 3:40 we arrived for
a crew change, boarding passengers, detraining passengers, and lost
passengers. One fellow was trying to board the Coast Starlight
because he had missed the connection from the Southwest Chief "because
it was so late." He had taken the bus from LA to Bakersfield.
Wine tasting was announced just before
Bakersfield, so people could get
their $5 ticket, then wait until Wine Tasting was announced after
Bakersfield. According to the card titled, "Welcome to the Coast
Starlight Wine Tasting Experience," we will be tasting California
wines: Taz Pinot Gris 2006 from Santa Barbara, $13 per bottle;
Estancia Pinot Noir 2006 from Monterey County, $25 a bottle; Greg
Norman Petite Sirah 2005 from Paso Roles for $16 a bottle; and Jekel
Riesling 2006 from Monterey County at $12 a bottle.
Parlour Cars on the Coast Starlight
Elizabeth, Amtrak 'Suit' on this train to Sacramento, when I
asked about the status of the Parlour cars since I'd seen about 4 in
L.A., responded, "All bad ordered." When I asked why, since they
were just renovated in Beech Grove, she said, "Air Conditioning.
We thought they would put in the slide-in units like other cars get,
but they just renovated the A/C and it's breaking down already."
Thinking form Elizabeth's briefing that I'd not see a parlour car on my
return, I was surprised to see one on the southbound CS (above), and
another one on the southbound CS that I took out of Sacramento the
following Tuesday. Anthony, my car attendant on the CS southbound
from Sacramento on Tuesday, said there were 5 Parlour Cars (Not counting the Cross-Country Cafe
car being used as a substitute Parlour Car.) Anthony had worked
in Amtrak Management, with an office in LA, but has returned to the
trains. Anthony explained that there are 4 trainsets required to
service the Coast Starlight Route, with one in 'reserve.'
The serving
area in the center of the Cross-Country Cafe Car used as a Parlour Car
for Sleeping Car Passengers on one of the Coast Starlights.
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Sacramento
- Walking distance from the Amtrak Station
Because the Amtrak Coast
Starlight
turnaround time between the Northbound and Southbound trains in
Sacramento was 5 hours or less, I decided to stay 2 nights in
Sacramento at the Vagabond Inn, 2 blocks from the Station. This
meant that I had a full day and evening to explore Old Town Sacramento
including the California State Railroad Museum.
Vagabond Inn,
Downtown Sacramento. I like this location, 2 blocks from the
Station,
and about $89 for a non-smoking room with ref., microwave, coffee-maker
and wired Internet (bring you ethernet cable, although you may be able
to get it from the lobby) or wireless in the lobby. There
are a few
audible train horns, and a Denny's on the same property (not sure if
that is good or bad). Denny's gets a little roudy Fri. and Sat.
nights, but my stay on Sunday was fine.
When we arrived at the Vagabond Inn after our short walk from the
station, we were greeted by the longest line to check in there that
they had ever had. After a little over an hour I had my room key
and hit the hay, glad that I was staying 2 nights so I didn't have to
get up in 4 hours to make the Coast Starlight back home. During
the wait, it was sure nice to have Tom Anderson to talk with.
A day in Old Town Sacramento, June 23,
2008.
To get to Old Town from the Vagabond Inn, walk directly north of the
Vagabond Inn, through the parking garage,
and you come out a few yards from the California
State Railroad Museum. The
other direction, south, a few blocks is an enclosed mall.
Also upstairs is a
gallery for art and photography. At this time there was a display
of Promotional Photography and
artwork for the Southern Pacific Railroad 1890-1910. Also
displayed on the second floor were the winners of a photography contest
and the very large private Lionel Toy Train display.
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From the second
floor, overlooking the turntable on the property, you can see the
double-deck (cars and trains) I Street pivot Bridge.
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The California
State Railroad Museum is worth putting on your Bucket List.
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The California
Railroad Museum after closing with the sun setting on this smoky day.
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Stores in Old
Town have some unique items such as this enamelware at Huntington &
Hopkins Hardware near the Discovery Museum.
Across the Sacramento a very large new building is going up (right).
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Along the
river, south of the Museum, are Sacramento River Cruises and the Delta
King.
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While at a
table overlooking the Sacramento River, I had a very good salmon
sandwich with sweet potato fries for lunch at Rio City Cafe
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After two nights at
the Vagabond Inn in Sacramento, CA, I boarded the Coast Starlight
southbound, which arrived about 6:15 a.m., for my return trip to Orange
County, on Monday, June 24, 2008.
It was still
smoky from the Watsonville Fire as we passed a slough in the Sacramento
River bottoms.
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The mothball
fleet and new cars lined up for loading onto auto haulers took on a
eerie look in the smoke.
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At Emeryville,
we pulled in next to the California Zephyr, a beautiful Amtrak Route in
itself.
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Approach Bridges to San Francisco.
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BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit.
Amtrak Switcher for Amtrak California Cars
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The day in my Roomette was spent writing this report. I took
breakfast in the Dining Car, because the Dining Car opens at 6:30 and
the Parlour Car not until 8 a.m., but I took lunch and dinner in the
Parlour Car for. I like the Parlour Car for meals because they
seat 24 or less, usually 12, per meal. You can sit along on one
side of a table, or join one other passenger who sits on the opposite
side. The menu is different, usually a selection of salads for
lunch, and steam table food for dinner. Of course you can have a
glass of wine ($5) and desert and drink are included. There is
wine tasting in the Parlour Car in the afternoon, but I took a late
lunch and dinner at 6, so I skipped wine tasting since I usually fill
up on the 16 pieces of cheese that come with the 4 wines at tasting
time.
My only negative comments (So skip this paragraph if you wish):
After Santa Barbara, we heard way too many
requests from the crew to "help us since this train turns around
tomorrow." For instance, Coaches were instructed to,
"Please clean up
your area and we will be by to pick up your trash, pillows,
headrests.
Also, please put your seat in the upright position." Didn't we
pay a
good amount to get on here and shouldn't we not feel responsible to
help the crew get
their work
done? I felt like I should ask, who has the vacuum cleaner that I
can
use? Should we still tip when we've done the cleanup work?
I'll have
to say I didn't hear any of these requests in the sleeper cars.
Also,
on southbound Amtrak Coast Starlights, dinner starts at 4:30 and we get
to LA at 9, why? We seem to be put into a position of feeling
sorry
for the crew, so they can head home as soon as we get to LA.
Maybe
part of the First Class Feeling we're supposed to have on Amtrak
nowdays would be more realistic without the "help me get home earlier
from work" attitude we're seeing.
I enjoyed pleasant meal mates at all three meals, so it was the only
social interaction I had all day since I sequestered my self in the
room so I'd get this report finished by the time I was home. I
call my room on Amtrak, my Office. I guess I could call it my
A-Office.
Hope you find this report informative, and your comments are welcomed
at Carl@TrainWeb.com.